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Discussion Starter #1
Looking for some ideas and confirmation. I already know how I'm going to try to fix it, just wondering if anyone else has a better (cheap) fix.

I was riding a couple of weeks ago and had just changed the front sprocket over to my 16T for the road trip. Now here's where stupid comes in.
I didn't get the C-clip on the master link all the way, and it came off on my way home after roughly 40 miles.
Well the chain took a good swipe at the case when it left the bike, and an oil leak started right after that. I thought it was the output shaft seal damaged in there and replaced that. No good, still leaks. Rode it tonight, leaked, and I cleaned it off with some brake cleaner. All nice and dry until I started it up.

That's when I could see oil seeping out of the oil galley tapered plug behind the sprocket.



I'm going to tap the taper plug and see if it moves, and reset it if I can get a clean shot at it, or replace it. Problem is, a good portion of the outside of the galley was shaved off.
Plan #2 is to TIG weld it right over the plug.



Comments, ideas, condemnations, and no, I've already ruled out JB weld.
 

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TIG welding it wont work as they are dissimilar metals and you will only cause more heartache. I suggest drilling it with a left hand drill, Then you can TIG the case and retap the hole. Or you may be able to oversize the hole and go up to the next size pipe plug, that might get you into thicker meat on the case. Just be careful not to drill it too deep!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
At first thought Jon, I was just going to lay a bead over the whole plug and bury it.
But I like the thought of putting an aluminum plug in there and setting a bead to it.
 

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then why not just pull the plug and weld up the hole? Gotta be careful not to get the case too hot or you'll starting cooking the innards. Exotic metals TIG was my bread and butter for along time, I miss the challenge of odd jobs like yours.
 

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Since the plug is tapered, a reset might seal . . . best of all possible outcomes, IMHO!

From the chain wax, looks like a new chain. Just put one on, myself; had choice of clip or riveted master link; clip was in the "too hard" box to install (without the special pliers for squeezing the plates together), so . . . I tried the riveted route.

Your post encourages me to check the peening of the master link pins (I'm not entirely confident of the adequacy of my handiwork); don't want my chain flailing the case as yours did, campfire!

Best wishes for an easy and effective cure.

If I had gone for the clip-style master link, I'd probably be making a similar post, since I couldn't perform a satisfactory installation/assembly
 

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campfire,
I'll suggest staying away from the welding idea.
Permatex / Loc-Tite / J B weld are my good friends, for these issues.

Tilt bike to the right.
Clean area with brake cleaner and air hose 3 times.
Spray Permatex, Surface Prep on area. Allow to dry 3-5 minutes.
Add a drop or 2 of Permatex Penatrating Grade Threadlocker Green.
Allow to cure.

Or rough sand the area.
Brake clean and air hose area 3 times.
Permatex Cold Weld or J B Weld the area.

Or both!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
campfire,
I'll suggest staying away from the welding idea.
Permatex / Loc-Tite / J B weld are my good friends, for these issues.

Tilt bike to the right.
Clean area with brake cleaner and air hose 3 times.
Spray Permatex, Surface Prep on area. Allow to dry 3-5 minutes.
Add a drop or 2 of Permatex Penatrating Grade Threadlocker Green.
Allow to cure.

Or rough sand the area.
Brake clean and air hose area 3 times.
Permatex Cold Weld or J B Weld the area.

Or both!
Oh man does this sound like the voice of experience!
Thanks for the instructions, and I'll try that first. What's that worst that can happen? It leaks oil?
I am going to try to pick at that plug a bit and try to reseat it or maybe replace it with a larger size. I just don't want to put too much pressure on that out wall of the oil galley.
I'll go try to take a better picture of it, those were the iPhone camera.
 

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campfire,
I'll suggest staying away from the welding idea.
Permatex / Loc-Tite / J B weld are my good friends, for these issues.

Tilt bike to the right.
Clean area with brake cleaner and air hose 3 times.
Spray Permatex, Surface Prep on area. Allow to dry 3-5 minutes.
Add a drop or 2 of Permatex Penatrating Grade Threadlocker Green.
Allow to cure.

Or rough sand the area.
Brake clean and air hose area 3 times.
Permatex Cold Weld or J B Weld the area.

Or both!
That's the ticket!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
UPDATE------------

Just went out and with a small punch and small ball peen hammer, tried tapping the plug in. it moved a little bit and then I started it up.
It has slowed down the leak to just weeping!


This after tapping the plug.



closer view---


And this is with the engine running. It was leaking enough before to "drip" every 20 seconds or so.


On to the sanding and sealant attempt.
 

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Oh man does this sound like the voice of experience!
Thanks for the instructions, and I'll try that first. What's that worst that can happen? It leaks oil?
I am going to try to pick at that plug a bit and try to reseat it or maybe replace it with a larger size. I just don't want to put too much pressure on that out wall of the oil galley.
I'll go try to take a better picture of it, those were the iPhone camera.
campfire,
If the plug does Not blow OUT of there, while you are brake cleaning/air hosing, leave well enough alone.
If it does blow-out, you can clean the pocket and the plug better.
But, again Loc-Tite / Prematex and J B Weld should be your best friends.

With a Stock oil system, there is Next To Zero Oil Pressure There! Oil Flow yes, pressure No.
 

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Hell, it's leaking less than some "other" bikes. Run it !!!

Seriously though, it would drive me nuts not to stop it completely. I'd give some thought to a couple of less invasive measures offered here. I'd peen it first, drawing the gap between the plug and case as closely as possible before applying a sealant. As you have said, "what's the worst that can happen"..... a few drops of oil?.
 

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If it is cleaned and dried like pdwestman described the wicking grade sealant/locker will flow into the gap through capillary action just like soldering a copper pipe. It will definitely seal the leakage but the joint must be CLEAN first.
I use green wicking grade Loctite(609 I think) on any bolts I loctite that I don't feel like taking apart first. The Loctite wicks into the threads and provides the same holding power as blue loctite.
At one time Permatex and Loctite were cojoined companies but are separate competitors again.
Regards....justjeff
 

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Discussion Starter #14
OK, the repair has begun!
I was trying to figure out on how to pump some of that sealant into the hole around the plug. So the thought of pressure, force on the outside, was making me stumble and then I thought "I'll let it get sucked in!"
I had an old oil cap that came with the bike that always got stuck, so I replaced it. Found that, and an old fitting, drilled a hole.....



And then I tapered the hole, and installed the fitting.



Then I attached my air powered vacuum pump brake bleeder to it to create a good vacuum in the entire crankcase. Hoping to get some of the sealant to flow into and around the plug, it worked.



And started cleaning the plug with brake cleaner and air. I could see the brake cleaner seeping into the hole under vacuum. Let everything dry a bit and then started to apply some Permatex high temp sleeve retainer. It's for cylinder sleeves, valve seats, woodruff keys, etc. and the cross reference to that Loctite 609 that JustJeff recommended.
I let it soak in and then shut off the vacuum and let it build up a bit on the plug.

I also rough sanded the area with a Dremmel in prep for the JB cap I'll put on tomorrow.
 

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Brilliant, campfire; BRILLIANT!

Congratulations; oughta work.

-------------------------

Further, you truly have achieved the elusive parameter, CRANKCASE VACUUM, the objective of the vaunted PCV valve mod! :)
 

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My old XS650 would pass enough through the countershaft seal that I never had to change the oil or lube the chain.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
The sealer set up pretty good last night, so I went ahead and pulled the chain & sprocket off to get a little more access.
Ground off or roughed up around the area, cleaned again with brake cleaner, blew it off, and mixed up some epoxy.



Coated the area pretty good and now will let it set overnight.
Hope the weather is as good then as it is today. I'll ride it and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
:high_five:

It's fixed for now!

Took it out today (in this terrible northern California weather, 71 degrees) for a 110 mile loop ride. The epoxy is holding and not a sign of any oil anywhere.
Total with the brake cleaner, retainer sealer, & epoxy, is around $23.
Typical KLR owner cheap fix, but it's on the road again.
Thanks for all the ideas out there guys!
 
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