Kawasaki KLR Forum banner

1 - 11 of 11 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I think I am having an Electrical Problem due to the heat here in Tennessee (90 degrees and over)

Red Gen II, year - 2017

https://youtu.be/0meAIaeUpqw
In the video, it starts out all whacky, but after I kick it like a horse on the left side, like 'Giddy-Up!' the rpms display as normal again...

see video

1. The Tachometer is fluttering at over 7,000 rpm while engine is in Idle at maybe 1200 rpm (video)

2. Also, the Neutral Light flickers. (not observable in video but it does it)

3. In addition, I think I may be having problems at night also because my Headlights, both at Low beam and at High beams, are flickering.

4. Finally, sometimes it's not starting, but when I kick it like a horse on the left side, it starts.

I may have to tear it apart...

Anyone have any experience with this before?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
623 Posts
Check your battery cables are tight before tearing into it. Looks like possibly a loose ground.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,597 Posts
In my experience, KLR tachometers appear VERY SENSITIVE to a solid + 12 VDC source.

Suggest you check the 12 VDC input with a voltmeter at various engine rpm, after you clean/tighten all related connections.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
31 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
>took off my side panels and seat.
>started the bike up.
>observed sparks shoot outwards from the ground lead of the battery, to the left of the bike.
>ground lead quite loose.
>nut came off the bottom of the screw, so the wire was bouncing around.
>tightened it up but had trouble aligning the nut with the screw.
>Bad eyesight didn't help.
>slapped everything back together.
>runs fine again.
>drove it over 450 miles this past weekend to include through a rainstorm.
>still running good.
mfw I feel like an idiot for not checking this right away instead of riding another 1,000+ miles before turning my attention to it because I was thinking, "Oh, this will just go away."[


Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G900A using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,597 Posts
Did you overlook this post, Perry?

In my experience, KLR tachometers appear VERY SENSITIVE to a solid + 12 VDC source.

Suggest you check the 12 VDC input with a voltmeter at various engine rpm, after you clean/tighten all related connections.
:)

Congratulations on solving your problem.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,822 Posts
I can't hardly imagine that your bike was able to Start with the cable that loose! Even once, much less a 1000 miles worth.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
132 Posts
Great story, and it inspired me to perform a battery service (adding water, cleaning, greasing and tightening the contacts, etc.) on my bike last night!

Glad to hear it wasn't something more complicated or expensive than a loose contact.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
338 Posts
HAHA, anytime the tach goes nuts on a bike, your battery cable is loose. Trust me on this one. I think this has happened on EVERY bike I have ever owned.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,822 Posts
HAHA, anytime the tach goes nuts on a bike, your battery cable is loose. Trust me on this one. I think this has happened on EVERY bike I have ever owned.
I recon you are too young to have owned a bike with a mechanical cable driven tachometer. :)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
132 Posts
Mechanical tachometer cables - oh how well I remember that fun!

I was on my way to a job interview in Chicago on my '76 CB750 when the tachometer cable broke and I decided to fix it on the road - it's an easy fix and I had a spare for just this very occasion.

Long story short - I fixed it OK but ended up with some very greasy hands, and there's no denying that I left a lasting impression on that office...
 
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Top