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Anyone know if the doohickey is a common part to an older 85 KLR 600?
I'm thinking it may be a good thing to be proactive and install it.
 

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From everything I've gathered, it's not an issue on the 600's. Different design or something..

I'm going to move this to the Modification and Wrenching forum so more people see it and can chime in..
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Still looking for a solution to the small gas tank. I did find a Acerbis auxiliary tank that mounts to the back fender behind the seat. Holds 1.6gal. Unfortunately I have a luggage rack there.
 

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Doohickey??

I have an 08 KLR and had a friend replace it for me, however I have another friend who bought an 07 KLR last year. I told him about replacing the doohickey. Since I am a little mechanically challenged I had a hard time defending why I replaced it and why he should replace his. Based on what I read, it seemed like a good idea at the time.

He talked to the dealer and the dealer totally shot down any idea that there is a need to replace this.

So,, Exactly what is the deal? Can someone explain to me (simple terms) why I replaced mine and why it seems like a good idea to do so?
 

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Tell your friend too ask the dealer that shot it down to write out a legal guarantee that the doohickey and spring in his bike will never fail, and that all resulting damage will be paid by the dealer, in full.

When the dealer refuses, spend the $40 and address the issue before it causes catostrophic failure of your engine..

$40 is pretty cheap Peace of Mind, if you ask me.. I've seen 4 broken Doos or springs removed from KLR 650 motorcycles. 4 were broken out of 10... 40% failure.. $40 fix.. Seems simple to me, but I did mine 3 years ago and haven't had to worry about it since. $40 well spent..
 

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Tell your friend too ask the dealer that shot it down to write out a legal guarantee that the doohickey and spring in his bike will never fail, and that all resulting damage will be paid by the dealer, in full.

When the dealer refuses, spend the $40 and address the issue before it causes catostrophic failure of your engine..

$40 is pretty cheap Peace of Mind, if you ask me.. I've seen 4 broken Doos or springs removed from KLR 650 motorcycles. 4 were broken out of 10... 40% failure.. $40 fix.. Seems simple to me, but I did mine 3 years ago and haven't had to worry about it since. $40 well spent..
Ok,, That’s to the point! Thanks,, But, can you explain what is happening in the bike if the Doo is not replaced?
 

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If the spring breaks (happens a lot) when you loosen the adjuster bolt you're allowing the chain to go very slack.. This causes grinding to the inside of the cases, or worse, allowing the chain to jump teeth.

If the adjuster breaks, you have loose parts floating around in your bike, plus your chain will have zero tension, causing the issue above..

The adjuster was updated on the Generation 2 bikes, but from what I've been gathering, the springs have no tension when new, so it doesn't matter how often you loosen the adjuster, it's not doing anything as far as adding tension to the chain, which is the whole point of the unit in the first place. Chain gets loose with and wear, and you're back to the first paragraph.. :)

Or, a couple hours and $40 and you don't have to ever worry about it again.. Eh.. Seems like an easy choice..

I wouldn't recommend it if I hadn't seen so many broken units and heard about dozens more..
 

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If the spring breaks (happens a lot) when you loosen the adjuster bolt you're allowing the chain to go very slack.. This causes grinding to the inside of the cases, or worse, allowing the chain to jump teeth.

If the adjuster breaks, you have loose parts floating around in your bike, plus your chain will have zero tension, causing the issue above..

The adjuster was updated on the Generation 2 bikes, but from what I've been gathering, the springs have no tension when new, so it doesn't matter how often you loosen the adjuster, it's not doing anything as far as adding tension to the chain, which is the whole point of the unit in the first place. Chain gets loose with and wear, and you're back to the first paragraph.. :)

Or, a couple hours and $40 and you don't have to ever worry about it again.. Eh.. Seems like an easy choice..

I wouldn't recommend it if I hadn't seen so many broken units and heard about dozens more..
Thanks for simplifying it. I agree and will pass this info on to my friend with the 07. We get together often to ride and I’d hate to be stranded somewhere with him when his goes!
 

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Anyone know if the doohickey is a common part to an older 85 KLR 600?
I'm thinking it may be a good thing to be proactive and install it.
A little late on the response here, but as KL600 info can be hard to find, when i saw this post, I registered on the forums just to post an answer.

I have a KL600a(84) and a KL600b2(86), tried the doo on both.

I got the torsion spring and doo from Eagle Mike for each bike, here are my results and observations:

On the 86: there was almost no tension left in the factory spring. , and the 2 springs that EM sent me were too long also. So I installed the torsion spring and everything had worked like a charm since.

On the 84: The 84 "a" model has no electric starter. Therefore there is no starter gear behind the magneto for the starter to turn. Therefore the magneto doesn't stick as far out on the 84 as it does on -all subsequent klrs-. Therefore there is less clearance under the magneto for the doo hickey. Therefore the eagle mike doo with the thicker, more robust one piece body does not fit. You may be able to shave down the doo a little bit more to get the clearance, it's pretty close. I elected to install the replacement spring and stick with the old doo, and the spring had space between each coil, and I'm not worried about that spring snapping. Ever.

This leads me to theorize about the weak design of the original doo that is notorious for breaking: in the first klr600 design (which all future model 600 and 650s were revolutions from) there was very little room for the doo, thus the profile they built it in. When there was more room down the road with the addition of the starter, they such with the old doo design. Until 08, anyways.

That's my thought on the matter. Hope this thread is useful for posterity.

Also, I'm in Tucson and have the EM doo tools. Feel free to contact me for help or tools.
 

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Friedom -

That's good information!

Thanks and welcome to the forum.

Tom
 

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I also have a KL 600 that I replaced the doo on. When I disassembled the bike I found that there was no tension in the factory spring. I installed a doo kit with torsion spring for an 08 and have had no problems.
 

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Gee, while we're building a kl6 thread, might as well add some more useful info.
Some of the kl250 parts swap directly over. Eg the swingarm and some of its components if not all. The ignition switch and harness also are cross compatible. Of course, there are a good bit of parts that fit from the KLR 650 as well, but if they all share the same part, by it for a 250 and it's cheaper. :)
 

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Sweating, chills, general unease and nausea!:icon33:
Really I think the short answer is that you have to open it up and have a look.
Regards....justjeff
 

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Hi guys, newby here. I would think one of the first signs of the tension spring going bad is timing chain noise or slap inside the engine. Tpyically what is the springs life span on average? I've had a Honda that the chain tensioner went bad and you could tell by the sound. The Honda set up was different but if ignored it could cause some damage.
 

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Hi guys, newby here. I would think one of the first signs of the tension spring going bad is timing chain noise or slap inside the engine. Tpyically what is the springs life span on average? I've had a Honda that the chain tensioner went bad and you could tell by the sound. The Honda set up was different but if ignored it could cause some damage.
Hi and Welcome CactusJack!
The doohicky adjusts the BALANCER CHAIN slack. There are two balancers driven off the crank by this chain in the KLR engine
The doohicky spring only tensions the adjusting lever. When you loosen the adj bolt the spring pulls on the lever to adjust the tensioner sprocket thus tensioning the chain. You then retighten the tensioner bolt, locking the adjustment assembly.
When the spring looses tension or breaks the doohicky does not turn when you loosen the adjusting bolt, or worse allows the lever to move the wrong way allowing MORE slack in the balancer chain. Also, if broken, the spring and or doohicky parts can create havoc in the engine.
Regards....justjeff
 
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