Kawasaki KLR Forum banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I just purchased a 2000 Gen 1 KLR with the doohickey mod already done to it. The previous owner used an Eagle Mikes doohickey. My question is this. I see that the Eagle Mike package includes with it new springs. It says on the website that you would need to purchase a torsion spring separately. Can a doohickey be done without the Torsion spring and just the springs that come with it? I just don't know if the previous owner also did the torsion as well? You would think since you have all the covers off you would do the full 100%....right?
 

·
Lifetime Member
Joined
·
2,485 Posts
Yup, you can do the Eagle Mike doohickey just fine with the regular included springs. Most people just prefer the Torsion spring since it has infinite adjustment.
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
3,568 Posts
You would think since you have all the covers off you would do the full 100%....right?
The torsion spring was not always an option with the Doohickey mod. I bought my 2004 KLR in 2006 and at that time it was only available with coil springs. Likely what happened with your 2000. Wasn't like the owner cheaped out. I've since purchased a torsion spring but have been too lazy to install it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
Just did mine a month ago, stock was still fine, but now I know it's good to go. Nothing better than piece of mind.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,256 Posts
As long as your balancing system continues to adjust when you loosen and re-tighten the adjusting bolt the system is fine. If it starts to make noises like the main rear drive chain does when it is too loose and rattling around, then you need to pull the left outside cover and check to see if there is any spring tension left by loosening the adjuster and pushing on the part of the doohickey that you can see to see if the spring presses it back.

If you need to order a new spring (shorter extension or a torsion) at that time, you can adjust the doohickey by hand and lock it in place with the adjuster. That should keep good tension for three to five thousand miles if you do not loosen the adjuster bolt. During that time you can order a spring, gaskets, a rotor bolt and rotor removal tools. Or you can borrow the tools.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
335 Posts
I see tons of posts on having this done, and some with spring failures as early as 5k. Yet I looked in my manual and the first adjustment is at 7k then every 7k after that. Why is it some say to do it every oil change?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,636 Posts
I think just to be sure it's at the best it can be. The biggest issue is, if the spring is broken or has zero tension you will never know unless you go inside to check......if it is either you will never know and you will simply loosen and tighten the adjusting bolt and you possibly could be making things worse by doing so. As if it is broken or the sring is off the post, DOO itself and you loosen it there is a good chance all you're doing is allowing the DOO to move where ever it wants to go to, not in the correct location etc etc.....We can't say this enough.....simly do your DOO and every now and then go inside to inspect it. The biggest thing is, what if and something lets go, the amount of POSSIBLE damage worst case is huge!
IF you have the parts etc etc, just do it,,,,seriously...get it done!
:character00201:
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,585 Posts
I got the coil/ pull springs with my EM kit and used the shorter of the two.


Not gonna worry about it until about 50k. (19k) now. US miles.
Also, if you (anyone reading this) used these springs, and grabbed them in the center
of the hook look into going torsion sooner than later. A slight nick in the spring
is now the weak point at which a break can propagate from. Grabbed mine from
the side luckily.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,636 Posts
Hey it's your bike and your wallet as i keep saying but we shouldn't be saying it's a non issue imho.....better Eagle Mike become a multi millionaire from the sale of them than to have one destroy your engine in the worst case synario...imho....besides it is a cheap mod or thing to do.....I do not personally see a bad side to this mod....even the price is easy to swallow.....lol.
:character00201:
 

·
Administrator
Joined
·
3,568 Posts
I see tons of posts on having this done, and some with spring failures as early as 5k. Yet I looked in my manual and the first adjustment is at 7k then every 7k after that. Why is it some say to do it every oil change?
The periodic maintenance chart for my 2004 KLR recommends a balancer chain adjustment every 3000 miles with the first adjustment at 500 miles. If you have a Gen 2 KLR maybe Kawasaki changed that as a result of their over confidence in their newly designed doo. I wouldn't wait that long.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,636 Posts
I have seen them broken as early as 1500 miles!!!!....that is why I am a firm believer of getting inside and doing this simle mod.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
335 Posts
I see tons of posts on having this done, and some with spring failures as early as 5k. Yet I looked in my manual and the first adjustment is at 7k then every 7k after that. Why is it some say to do it every oil change?
The periodic maintenance chart for my 2004 KLR recommends a balancer chain adjustment every 3000 miles with the first adjustment at 500 miles. If you have a Gen 2 KLR maybe Kawasaki changed that as a result of their over confidence in their newly designed doo. I wouldn't wait that long.
I do have a gen2.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
I have a 2014 and did mine with the round torsion spring at 8,000 miles, old one looked fine but the EM looked far better.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
541 Posts
The new owner's manuals have the first adjustment at 7,500 miles and then every 7,500 thereafter. But it doesn't offer the owner any instructions on how to do it. Some maintenance steps indicate by a letter "K" a recommendation that they be done by a dealer, but not the balancer chain adjustment. Easy enough, you'd think they'd have just printed the two sentences of instruction in the manual. Another in a long list of good reasons to get and use the Factory Service Manual.

I have a 2016 KLR650 and think the doohicky is a good idea mainly due to the spring but also due to better design of the Eagle Mike lever. I'll probably get to it somewhere around 8-9 thousand miles.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
39 Posts
The new owner's manuals have the first adjustment at 7,500 miles and then every 7,500 thereafter. But it doesn't offer the owner any instructions on how to do it. Some maintenance steps indicate by a letter "K" a recommendation that they be done by a dealer, but not the balancer chain adjustment. Easy enough, you'd think they'd have just printed the two sentences of instruction in the manual. Another in a long list of good reasons to get and use the Factory Service Manual.



I have a 2016 KLR650 and think the doohicky is a good idea mainly due to the spring but also due to better design of the Eagle Mike lever. I'll probably get to it somewhere around 8-9 thousand miles.


I also just did a 16 tooth front sprocket, I think KLR's should come stock with them.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,256 Posts
The periodic maintenance chart for my 2004 KLR recommends a balancer chain adjustment every 3000 miles with the first adjustment at 500 miles. If you have a Gen 2 KLR maybe Kawasaki changed that as a result of their over confidence in their newly designed doo. I wouldn't wait that long.
I think Kawasaki is in a bit of a fog when it comes to the balancer chain adjustment. Gen1 owners manuals apparently suggest every 3000 miles. My first year Gen2 2008 KLR owners manual doesn't even use the words "BALANCER CHAIN ADJUSTMENT" in the book. From posts in this thread it appears that the newer Gen2 manuals suggest 7,500 miles.

Since my 2008 manual made no mention of adjusting the chain tension, I just rode along fat ignorant and happy until about 20,000 miles when I started hearing loose chain noises from the left engine cover while riding the TAT. I stopped at a one-man repair shop and he said "That's your balancer chain". I didn't want to wait "a week to 10 days" for a spring from Kawasaki, so we snugged it up by hand and I rode another 5,000 miles to finish the trail and get home without the noise reoccurring. I had not even heard of Eagle Mike and two day shipment at that time.

From my experience I have no problem with calling for adjustment every 7,500 miles, but it is so easy I do it more often than that.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top