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Hello all. It has been six months since Mr. Schmitz walked me through the procedure. I was wondering if there are any adjustments or something to check. GoMotors story reminded me that my 2009 with 11,500 miles (I bought it with 2700 miles in April '18 ) may not be as bulletproof as I think. I can imagine things going wrong for me when I'm miles from anything. By the way, I am still burning oil after the oil mods, at about a quart per 1000 miles, more or less. Besides the inconvenience of adding oil, are there any problems I should look for? Bike is running great(besides the oil) and I don't really want to put a 685 in unless HIGHLY recommended by you gentlemen here. Thanks
 

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As far as burning oil. After doing a oil change, try keeping it under 5,000 rpm.
My 2011 used a little oil, at first, when I would run over 5,000 rpm.
Since then, I have kept it under, except for passing etc. No prolonged running over that rpm.
I have over 28K on it now, and don't burn any oil, in my 3,000 mile oil change interval.

I know some have to ride at that speed, but here in N.H. I can cruse the highway at 70 mph=5,000rpm, and am good with that speed.
I try to ride as many back roads as possible. More to see.
 

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Hello all. It has been six months since Mr. Schmitz walked me through the procedure. I was wondering if there are any adjustments or something to check. GoMotors story reminded me that my 2009 with 11,500 miles (I bought it with 2700 miles in April '18 ) may not be as bulletproof as I think. I can imagine things going wrong for me when I'm miles from anything. By the way, I am still burning oil after the oil mods, at about a quart per 1000 miles, more or less. Besides the inconvenience of adding oil, are there any problems I should look for? Bike is running great(besides the oil) and I don't really want to put a 685 in unless HIGHLY recommended by you gentlemen here. Thanks
Are you saying that you Have Replaced the Doo-Hickey and installed the Torsion Spring & are now wondering if it needs to be periodically adjusted?

And exactly what all oil mods did you perform? Is the oil consumption less than before the mods were performed? I do say "may help", but no guarantees.
 

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Paul's mods can help reduce oil consumption, particularly with the usual "sustained high rpm oil burning"......but nothing is going to help oil consumption due to a bad ring/irregular bore issue other than reboring the cylinder properly and installing the appropriate piston/rings......like Eaglemike's 685 kit, which I HIGHLY RECOMMEND! LOL - sorry, couldn't resist


Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Paul's mods can help reduce oil consumption, particularly with the usual "sustained high rpm oil burning"......but nothing is going to help oil consumption due to a bad ring/irregular bore issue other than reboring the cylinder properly and installing the appropriate piston/rings......like Eaglemike's 685 kit, which I HIGHLY RECOMMEND! LOL - sorry, couldn't resist


Dave
I believe Tom and I did 3 of 4 (maybe 4) of Paul's recommended mods. The oil is not an issue for me, I check before every ride. That was sharing information as I haven't been on here for a while. Yes sir, I am asking if there are any adjustments I should make to doohickey. I apologize for blending a question with a statement. Here in So Cal 5000 rpm just keeps up with the flow of traffic. 16 tooth sprocket gives me 80mph at 52-5300 rpms Thanks Gents
 

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We did the banjo bolts and the crank restriction in the cap.

It may be an oil burner like mine was. That usually comes on after 10-15K miles, I think.

The doo needs to be adjusted every 5000ish miles. I do mine at oil change.
 

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I believe Tom and I did 3 of 4 (maybe 4) of Paul's recommended mods. The oil is not an issue for me, I check before every ride. That was sharing information as I haven't been on here for a while. Yes sir, I am asking if there are any adjustments I should make to doohickey. I apologize for blending a question with a statement. Here in So Cal 5000 rpm just keeps up with the flow of traffic. 16 tooth sprocket gives me 80mph at 52-5300 rpms Thanks Gents
Ok, just wanted to inquire as I couldn't remember how many of the pdw mods were performed. One might change down to the next smaller crankshaft orifice size. #43 is 2.26mm the #44 is 2.18mm.

How many miles have you put on it since installing the EM Doo-hickey & Torsion spring? And as Tom said, yes it needs to be periodically adjusted.
I encourage people to remove the 2 plastic plugs on the LH engine case and using a 19mm socket & wrench rotate the engine CCW to the TDC mark on the flywheel to get all of the chain slack & the weights on the proper side of the system so the Doo-hickey adjustment can remove ALL of the slack.
 

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@pdwestman,

What is currently the smallest orifice you'd recommend on the crank?
 

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@pdwestman,

What is currently the smallest orifice you'd recommend on the crank?
I'll have to suggest the #44 / 2.18mm / 0.086inch as the smallest that I'd recommend. My BSL oil analysis was the cleanest while using it. And as you all may recall those are all very clean reports for a KLR.

When I changed down to the #46 / 2.06mm / 0.081 inch the next BSL oil analysis showed a rise in the wearable metals (on a 3000 mile run), but my numbers were still better than the numbers for the BSL Universal Averages numbers for all KLR650's & all of their various oils used for their 2000 mile UA runs.

I can only guess that the slight rise of my wearable metals was Iron from the top rod end, piston pin & cylinder / Aluminum from the piston & Copper from the bottom rod thrust washers. Because most all of the other parts with-in the engine should have gotten a wee bit more oil.

I re-installed the #44 / 2.18mm orifice after getting that 4th report back & I still want about another 2000 miles on this oil before another oil change & report. This will be a 5000 mile run.
 

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I'll have to suggest the #44 / 2.18mm / 0.086inch as the smallest that I'd recommend. My BSL oil analysis was the cleanest while using it. And as you all may recall those are all very clean reports for a KLR.



When I changed down to the #46 / 2.06mm / 0.081 inch the next BSL oil analysis showed a rise in the wearable metals (on a 3000 mile run), but my numbers were still better than the numbers for the BSL Universal Averages numbers for all KLR650's & all of their various oils used for their 2000 mile UA runs.



I can only guess that the slight rise of my wearable metals was Iron from the top rod end, piston pin & cylinder / Aluminum from the piston & Copper from the bottom rod thrust washers. Because most all of the other parts with-in the engine should have gotten a wee bit more oil.



I re-installed the #44 / 2.18mm orifice after getting that 4th report back & I still want about another 2000 miles on this oil before another oil change & report. This will be a 5000 mile run.
Drawing a blank at the moment, but what was the "default" size that was recommended in Tom's write up? Whatever it was, that is what I did to mine.

Sammy

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Hi Sammy,

It's a #43, which was Paul's starting point.
 

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Sammy, at the time that Tom was doing his 5 gauges pressure testing I was using the #43 / 2.26mm / 0.089 inch crankshaft oil control orifice.
I sent Tom his 1st orifice, a #43 and a lapped, pressure Reduced oil pressure relief valve. From there he could copy or further modify.

So your orifice is probably a #43 / 2.26mm / 0.089 inch. Another few thousandths smaller may or may not further reduce your engines oil consumption. As this is still an on-going experiment and your bike is just another 'lab rat'.
 

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I stand corrected.

Paul started with a #42 orifice, went to a #43, then #44, then back to a #43.

I think I finally got that right.
 

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Thank you Paul and Tom... I think I'll stay with the #43 at the moment. Glad it's all done and seems to be working well.

Sammy

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I still hadn't got it right. It's hard wading through 500 posts.

The progression was (I think) #42, #43, #44, #46 before turning back to #44 as the smallest recommendation.
 

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I still hadn't got it right. It's hard wading through 500 posts.

The progression was (I think) #42, #43, #44, #46 before turning back to #44 as the smallest recommendation.
Yeah thats close enough, Tom.

But I did actually start at the factory orifice size of 3 mm (about a #32) with a steel Bayou atv orifice screwed into the filter cap. Which I could solder & re-drill. :)
 

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I hope you don't mind, but I'm interested to try and line up oil analysis reports with orifice size.
 

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These pics are the only record of that we may have. https://www.klrforum.com/1987-2007-wrenching-mods/15458-oil-pressure-how-much-ya-got-11.html

So the 1st analysis was many combined changes down to the #43 installed in the Filter Cap.

The 2nd analysis was with the #43 installed in the Clutch Cover oil port.

The 3rd analysis was with the #44 installed in the Clutch Cover oil port. Cleanest oil report on a ppm per miles traveled.

The 4th analysis was with the #46 installed in the Clutch Cover oil port AND the Mini Filter installed into the crankshaft Oil Pocket.
Kind of a Double Restriction at one time that I probably shouldn't have done at the same time.
Therefore, I changed back to the #44 to see what happens.
 
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