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So, I've done a little research on the upgrade and decided that I'm going to do it myself. I understand that there is a kit available from Eagle mfg. that includes the tools, gaskets, springs and part. If anyone could offer any other advice, it would be greatly appreciated. (I have a KLR 650 - 2007 w/ 2900miles)
Thanks
 

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If you ask nicely, someone will gladly loan you the tools for the price of shipping. They're not something that gets used on regular basis.
 

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I'm planning the same thing also; 2007 with just over 1k. If it's not in bad form to ask here, what should I expect to spend to get the parts I need?
 

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I'm planning the same thing also; 2007 with just over 1k. If it's not in bad form to ask here, what should I expect to spend to get the parts I need?
No sir, it ain't bad form to ask. The upgrade parts are available from a few sources. Some of the price will depend if you buy the two or three tools needed to tackle this project, or go the loaner route for the price of shipping.

http://klr650.com/Doohickey.htm

http://www.topgunmotorcycles.com/Product_Pages/klrprod.html

http://www.tpimotorcycleparts.com/

http://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/productDetail.do?navType=type&navTitle=Engine&webTypeId=50&webCatId=17&prodFamilyId=29035

On the '07 and earlier models, common practice is to replace the doohickey and spring. The '08 and later bikes are going more to spring replacement only. One judgement call an owner will have to make is whether they should replace the rotor bolt. It is a torqued item that theoretically stretches, and is recommended to be replaced. Add about 14 bucks. I've never had a side cover gasket need replacing, possibly because I bought gaskets before tackling my first upgrade. They hang on the wall like a lucky horseshoe.

Conservatively, if all goes well, you should be able to complete the upgrade for about 60 dollars, using loaner tools. Tools will consist of an offset 1 1/4 or 32mm wrench and and a rotor puller. The other specialty items you may need would be a foot pound and an inch pound torque wrench. Not everybody uses torque wrenches. You can usually pick out the riders who don't use torque wrenches by their larger vocabularies of cuss words. There are a few maintenance duties that make having your own torque wrenches a smart purchase. Valve adjustment comes to mind, as does checking frame bolts. The KLR will shed fasteners like snakes shed skin. A few minutes with a torque wrench can make the difference between an enjoyable ride and a real catastrophe. With some frugal shopping, you can pick up both torque wrenches for under 60 bucks. You might find them for less, but the old adage about getting what you pay for comes to mind. Harbor Freight is to KLR riders what nuts are to a squirrel.
 

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You can usually pick out the riders who don't use torque wrenches by their larger vocabularies of cuss words.
I guess that explains the &*^& out of that.

:)

(truthfully, I own a 1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" torque wrench)
(I just don't use the @#%$#&)

I am kidding, of course.. And yes, they were purchased at Harbor Freight.
 

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I'm planning the same thing also; 2007 with just over 1k. If it's not in bad form to ask here, what should I expect to spend to get the parts I need?
I just spent a little over 130.00 for all the parts, gaskets, and tools, that was for a torsion spring also (the only way to go). I bought direct from Eagle.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I ordered the parts from Eagle. It was around $140.00 for everything incl shipping. I'm planning on doing it in the next couple weeks. I will keep you posted as to how it goes, maybe you can use the tools when I am done so you don't have to buy them. I choose the better of the two springs for the upgrade. I have to drill a small hole for this one, but thats not a big deal.
 

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I have to drill a small hole for this one, but thats not a big deal.
Nope.. Just follow the instructions and it works out very nicely..

Now, getting that spring in place, as well as the Doo is a PITA, but it does go.. I recommend you don't attempt to put the spring on with sensitive ears in the area..:)

Once you get the spring in place, it goes just fine.:22a:
 

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2011 doo hickey

Hi all, looking at getting a new 2011 klr 650 can anyone tell me if the doo hicky mod still needs to done or has the issue been sorted out by Kawasaki.
 

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Hi all, looking at getting a new 2011 klr 650 can anyone tell me if the doo hicky mod still needs to done or has the issue been sorted out by Kawasaki.
The '08-and-beyond doohickey is more robust than previous editions, but not as elegant as aftermarket (e.g., Eagle Mike) replacements. Haven't heard of any grenanding of latter-day doohickeys, but slack newer OEM spring reports abound.

Should you decide to replace your tension spring, your choices are replacement coil springs (Eagle Mike markets these components in several lengths) or a "torsion spring," the latter more difficult to install, but . . . assuring counterbalancer drive chain tension to the end of time, plus 99 years.

Full disclosure: '07 with Eagle Mike doo and torsion spring installed at 3456 miles; OEM parts intact and fully serviceable.
 

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Thanks for the information, I was also wondering what the actual horse power rating of the KLR is, I am in Australia and have been told many conflicting stories from the sales people regarding the bikes are restiricted to comply with Australian design rules any information gretly appriciated
 

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The KLR makes about 35 rear wheel horse power. The Ausie bikes are restricted but it's a simple fix to have it making full power. The carb has a couple of extra holes in the slide near the diaphragm. Fill those holes with some JB weld making sure it's smooth on the outside and reinstall the slide once the epoxy has hardened. You're now ready to use all the ponies you paid for.
There's a photo here on reply #16.
http://klrworld.com/forums/index.php/topic,8261.msg93071.html#msg93071
 
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