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There are NO shock pivot bolts anywhere near the drive chain, they are in the center of the bike.

There is the lower LH Sub-frame mount bolt near the outside top run of the chain, When the front sprocket is installed with thick flange inside, it pushes the chain towards the frame bolt.
When people install TOO Long of frame bolt, it crowds the chain.
Either scenario allows the taller masterlink to tick, tick, tick on the frame bolt, hope this helps.

(This frame bolt is to be installed from the outside, threaded into the welded on nut on the inside. Has that nut been stripped out?)

If the lower suspension linkage bolts are installed with nuts on the LH side, the lower chain run will contact the upper nut.
The shallow head of those bolts should be on the Left (recessed into the linkage) & the Thick Nuts should be on the Right.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
There are NO shock pivot bolts anywhere near the drive chain, they are in the center of the bike.

There is the lower LH Sub-frame mount bolt near the outside top run of the chain, When the front sprocket is installed with thick flange inside, it pushes the chain towards the frame bolt.
When people install TOO Long of frame bolt, it crowds the chain.
Either scenario allows the taller masterlink to tick, tick, tick on the frame bolt, hope this helps.

(This frame bolt is to be installed from the outside, threaded into the welded on nut on the inside. Has that nut been stripped out?)

If the lower suspension linkage bolts are installed with nuts on the LH side, the lower chain run will contact the upper nut.
The shallow head of those bolts should be on the Left (recessed into the linkage) & the Thick Nuts should be on the Right.



the lower suspension linkage bolts are installed with nuts on the LH side, the lower chain run will contact the upper nut.
The shallow head of those bolts should be on the Left (recessed into the linkage) & the Thick Nuts should be on the Right.

Yes that's the problem, the PO has swapped the shock and refitted the bolts wrong way round. The nut and bolt end were chewed up.
Ive turned the offending bolt to correct orientation but chain is still grazing the bolt head.
Any ideas.
Admin can shift this to the correct forum, that's fine.
 

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The LH cast iron OEM link has recesses in the Outside of both ends for the heads of the pivot bolts to set deeper into (to clear the chain). The RH cast iron OEM link is FLAT on both sides.

I'll suggest that you need to take both links completely off to inspect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
The LH cast iron OEM link has recesses in the Outside of both ends for the heads of the pivot bolts to set deeper into (to clear the chain). The RH cast iron OEM link is FLAT on both sides.

I'll suggest that you need to take both links completely off to inspect.

Great, following the breakage of a side plate on the inside run of the drive chain which I fortunately spotted post-ride, I have discovered lots of play in the sprocket carrier bearing, which I'm changing.
Along with the rear hub bearings, chain, both sprockets.
Checked the lever arms for correct orientation and sure enough the LH arm was wrong way round, having the recesses on the inside, reassembled and cleaned lubed correctly, hopefully this work will put sufficient gap between the chain and the bolt heads.
 

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I have discovered lots of play in the sprocket carrier bearing, which I'm changing.
Along with the rear hub bearings, chain, both sprockets.
Many people LOOSE the Inner SPACER of the carrier bearing during tire changing.
There is an Outer & an Inner spacer that meet in the Center of the carrier bearing.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Many people LOOSE the Inner SPACER of the carrier bearing during tire changing.
There is an Outer & an Inner spacer that meet in the Center of the carrier bearing.
[/QUOTE

Yes, all the spacers are present but there is a lot of movement when twisting the sprocket carrier just as if you were checking the wheel bearings.
There is the usual fore and aft rotational freeplay due to wear in the cush rubbers, I could live with that but the 1/4 inch plus "twist" needs sorting. If new bearings don't reduce it then the sprocket carrier must have a problem somewhere.
 

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Yes, all the spacers are present but there is a lot of movement when twisting the sprocket carrier just as if you were checking the wheel bearings.
There is the usual fore and aft rotational freeplay due to wear in the cush rubbers, I could live with that but the 1/4 inch plus "twist" needs sorting. If new bearings don't reduce it then the sprocket carrier must have a problem somewhere.
This might be of interest.

There is a polymer version of the OEM rubber part. I don't know if @2combs of 3D cycle has it, but I'm sure he's probably familiar with it. Tu does carry the OEM part. That probably doesn't help you, being in the UK, but there you have it.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
This might be of interest.

There is a polymer version of the OEM rubber part. I don't know if @2combs of 3D cycle has it, but I'm sure he's probably familiar with it. Tu does carry the OEM part. That probably doesn't help you, being in the UK, but there you have it.
Thanks, no, parts over here aren't impossible to get but it seems there's more interest in the KLR in the States, we don't have Eagle Mike's etc over here.
I'll pack out the cush drive if I can get the play out of the sprocket carrier bearing, I'll post up the result when I'm done. Thanks for commenting.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks, no, parts over here aren't impossible to get but it seems there's more interest in the KLR in the States, we don't have Eagle Mike's etc over here.
I'll pack out the cush drive if I can get the play out of the sprocket carrier bearing, I'll post up the result when I'm done. Thanks for commenting.
Ok, so new bearings fitted, didn't make a great deal of difference to the play in the sprocket carrier.
I noticed when the new carrier bearing was being fitted that the initial tight fit became less as the bearing went home, in fact it's clear the beating housing is worn. So it'll be new carrier and adjoining spacers.
However the ride is so much quieter and hugely smoother with the new chain and sprockets so that's a plus.
 
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