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Discussion Starter #1
So this is the second spring ive put in and its 1/3 worn through at 4000km, is this normal? I know the stock springs tend to get cut.

On my klr650 thespring tends to wonder to the outside edge of the tensioner and make contact with the starter gear
 

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It’s not fully installed. It needs to be popped up and over the top and into the groove.
 
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What Tom said. Further; if you have the spring hole "clocked" wrong, it can make it harder to get it to sit into the groove. I'd replace the spring and drill a new hole, if necessary

Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #4
What grove lol? There is only enough space for 1 coil behind the do hickey, the rest rides on top. I checked the indexing, its bang on the instructions that came with the kit.

How far is the dohickey suposed to run off the housing? Mine is nearly flush.

This klr has had literally every problem that has ever plagued the bike from the oil burning, deep hole, kack click, loud timing chain wurr, shock twist, unfixable oil plug leak. It wouldn't surprise me to find out it has other quarks.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Ok so my bike is once again proving to be a POS and I need to order a new dohickey or mod mine... since i need another new spring i might as well get a new dohicky.
Mind you the bike might be sold Wednesday, so i might not care anymore lol. Ive already spent a winter rebuilding the engine and gotten less then 200km out of it before another problem reared its head.
I think ive spent more time wrenching then riding in 2.5 years of ownership. 500km seems to be the max I can make without having to pull over for a couple minutes... or hours... to fix persistent issues, ive replaced half the engine at this point and it still gives me grief. Its not even high millage.
This bike is higher maintenance then my 30 year old army abused Iltis jeep.
I think i will be a proud owner of a dr650 by the end of june.... Sigh
 

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If the 1/16th inch hole is drilled at at Upward angle it will tend to cause issues with proper torsion spring alignment into the groove in the top of an EM doo. If there is No Groove in the top of your replacement doo then it is not an EM Doo.

I have learned to drill the 1/16th inch hole at a slight Downward angle, which causes the Torsion spring to lean Towards the case instead of away from the case. And one can use a 3 corner file to deepen & lengthen the groove to help assist proper Retention of the Outer torsion spring coil.

If necessary drill another 1/16th inch hole at a LOOSER position & at a slight Downward angle. Looser is better than tighter & one may be able to judge the angle of the drill bit better with a long 6mm screw installed near the doo.
 

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I checked the indexing, its bang on the instructions that came with the kit.
Do you happen to have a picture of the drilled hole position?
 

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If there is No Groove in the top of your replacement doo then it is not an EM Doo.

I was pretty sure that the early EM doohickey levers didn't have a groove; a google search seems to have confirmed it - one such post:


EM pre-torsion spring Doo levers did not have the groove. I have use a hand file to cut the groove when doing a torsion upgrade. It's tough metal, expect to work for it.

Dave
 

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Your bike; your maintenance decision, TechNeck! A modest proposal . . . unleash a Dremel MotoTool on your doohickey, grinding a groove.

As DPelletier have posted above (depending upon my own memory of Internet content only), early EM doohickeys (as in, pre-torsion spring ones) had no groove . . .

As to the unsatisfactory reliability and durability of your KLR . . . even the SPACE SHUTTLE failed!

Best of luck with your DR650! (Mind the cylinder base gasket, and . . . which gear grenades on those bikes? :) )
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Your bike; your maintenance decision, TechNeck! A modest proposal . . . unleash a Dremel MotoTool on your doohickey, grinding a groove.

As DPelletier have posted above (depending upon my own memory of Internet content only), early EM doohickeys (as in, pre-torsion spring ones) had no groove . . .

As to the unsatisfactory reliability and durability of your KLR . . . even the SPACE SHUTTLE failed!

Best of luck with your DR650! (Mind the cylinder base gasket, and . . . which gear grenades on those bikes? :) )
we will see about fixing it, but i think buying a new one is the better route in the long run (if i keep it) getting sick of opening this engine up; ive spent more on gaskets then on gas for this thing.
 

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we will see about fixing it, but i think buying a new one is the better route in the long run (if i keep it) getting sick of opening this engine up; ive spent more on gaskets then on gas for this thing.
I feel your pain; IME you can get a lemon from any manufacturer; sometimes its the gremlins from new, other times it's owner induced. I have a small fleet of vehicles and the majority have been very good but I've replaced the engine in one truck three times now.....

The DR is a great bike should you chose to go that way; yes it has it's own "weak links" but overall a good machine with lots of upgrades available.

Dave
 

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I have never done a doo . Nor will I ever do a doo. I know my limits and doing doos , I'm sure , is not what I would do best. But , I doo know a very good local doo mechanic that is very good at dooing doos so he does my doos. Mechanics need to make money. See yours today.
 

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Anyone ever use the coil spring and torsion spring when doing the upgrade?
DO NOT DO THAT!!

Eventually the coil extension spring will run out of travel & potentially fall off of its oem lever and possibly derail either or both chains. Plus the balancer chain does NOT need extra tension, it only Needs minimal slack.

So I recommend that we all remove the plastic plugs & turn the engine CCW to TDC before every balancer chain adjustment.
 
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