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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Everyone,

So i just got my 05 KLR 250 running great. I was out riding and i realized that non of my electrical was working. I got a new battery and it was fully charged. I went out riding and within an hour nothing electrical was working. I know my battery is good because it is brand new. This is my second new battery so i know that is out. What can i do to test my bikes electrical system to find out what is wrong? Please put what your trying to say in dummy terms because i am not the best at knowing what things mean. lol. Thank you.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
The ignition is just a kick start no electric start. The bike runs and purs like a champ. Its almost like the battery isnt getting recharged.
 

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The KLR250 (like the Generation 1 KLR650) has an ignition circuit separate from the battery circuit.

From your previous post, I assume you find your battery dead after a short operational life.

A simple test of the battery charging circuit, seems to me: Start bike. Connect voltmeter to battery terminals; note voltage. Increase engine rpm; note voltage. You should see a higher voltage at higher rpm.

At higher rpm, you should see about 14 volts DC.

If nominal voltage does not appear, check charging system connections. Still not enough juice? Could be faulty stator and/or rectifier/regulator. Tests and diagnostic procedures may be beyond the scope of a website post, but . . . some information can be found in the Clymer Generation 1 KLR650 service manual, or the Kawasaki KLR600 service manual.

EDIT: Posted before I read Post # 4 above.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
ok guys so i just fired up the bike. no matter what rpm i am at the volts stay around 12.something. no jump. i put a new rectifier/stator when i rebuilt the engine. i did all internals. So i'm guessing i need a new rectifier/exciter?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
ok guys so i just started the bike and put the voltmeter on it. i had it running with the exciter plugged in and not plugged in nothing happened. it ran the exact same. i am guessing that is what i need. What do you think?
 

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Your nomenclature confuses me somewhat, Mauryo!

Unless you have operational exciter coils on your stator, it ain't gonna run. Thus, when you say, "i had it running with the exciter plugged in and not plugged in nothing happened," I'm confused. BTW, The exciter voltage (AC) has no effect on the battery charging voltage.

You say you put in a new "rectifier/stator," not sure what that might be. A "rectifier/regulator" exists, but . . . the stator stands alone.

Maybe you could look at an exploded parts diagram fiche and parts list (e.g., from Bike Bandit, etc.) and identify the parts to which you refer in standard terms.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Your nomenclature confuses me somewhat, Mauryo!

Unless you have operational exciter coils on your stator, it ain't gonna run. Thus, when you say, "i had it running with the exciter plugged in and not plugged in nothing happened," I'm confused. BTW, The exciter voltage (AC) has no effect on the battery charging voltage.

You say you put in a new "rectifier/stator," not sure what that might be. A "rectifier/regulator" exists, but . . . the stator stands alone.

Maybe you could look at an exploded parts diagram fiche and parts list (e.g., from Bike Bandit, etc.) and identify the parts to which you refer in standard terms.
Sorry. I replaced the circle thing in the left side of the engine i think it is called the magneto. The other part i was plugging and unplugging and nothing happened was the piece where you open up the air box on the right side of the bike. square metal thing with a 6 prong plug that only uses 5. I know i sound like an idiot right now but i'm not the best explaining things. this is what i ordered that i was playing with and nothing was happening. http://www.ebay.com/itm/280884124611?item=280884124611&viewitem=&sspagename=ADME:L:OC:US:3160&vxp=mtr
 

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Bad/improper connection, bad stator (round thing about the flywheel), or bad regulator/rectifier (the part shown in the link above).

Two YELLOW wires come out of your stator; when the engine runs, you should see ALTERNATING CURRENT between these two.

A WHITE and a YELLOW/BLACK wire come out of your regulator/rectifier; you should see 12-14 VDC between these two, when the engine runs (regulator/rectifier must be connected to the stator for this test).

That's about it, for the charging circuit on a KLR250, AFAIK. Since your engine runs, your exciter coils and ignition circuit seem o.k.

Most likely problem, IMHO: broken/shorted stator winding. Using the OHM setting with a multimeter, you can check the two yellow wires for continuity/isolation-from-ground.

If none of this makes sense, might call in someone with some electrical experience, or take the bike to a competent shop. Not trying to put you down or blow you off, but . . . since we can't see the little electrons, it's hard to explain electrical components and their functions in a few words. Best of luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #11
ok so i tapped into the yellow wires coming out of the stator. they read from 4.9 to 5.9 depending on throttle. Is that right?
 

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ok so i tapped into the yellow wires coming out of the stator. they read from 4.9 to 5.9 depending on throttle. Is that right?
Sounds 'way too low, to me. You need more than 12 volts alternating current to be rectified into direct current to charge your battery, IMHO.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
You guys are awesome!!!! The yellow wires off the stator were split. i got them back together now and the charging system is working like a charm. Thank you so much for all your help!!!!
 

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You guys are awesome!!!! The yellow wires off the stator were split. i got them back together now and the charging system is working like a charm. Thank you so much for all your help!!!!
Congratulations!

(You will receive our bill, shortly.) :)
 
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