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Did a search for engine break in and saw that most of the posts were years old.

I read the break in procedure in the manual, but it’s been my experience that following the factory break in procedure almost guarantees the engine will consume more oil. I’ve had this happen to 2 new cars I’ve had over the years across different makes and engine sizes.

While researching engine break in methods, I heard/read some years ago (and saw the same advice listed here in an older post I found) that you should run new engines the same way you drive every day, while constantly varying speed in the high gears for the duration of the break in period. Since I’ve had great success with that method, I started using it today when I finally had my maiden voyage on the new scoot. Didn’t accelerate too hard, but I didn’t baby the engine either.

For the 2022 model year, I was wondering how many of y’all followed the book method and what the results were (burning oil or not), or if anyone did something similar to what I described and what the results were.

Thanks for reading this far.
 

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I'll suggest that it is Good (for the rings) to use Full Throttle while Quickly shifting up thru the gears for proper ring seating during engine break-in.
But it is BAD (for the piston skirts) to Exceed the RPM Limit of 4000 RPM during the first few hundred miles of engine operation on the long stroke KLR650 engine.
 

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I started to go by the manual but now I’m just riding it like I normally would. I try not to run in high RPM’s. Right now. Once I get past the supposed 600 mile mark. I will not worry to much.
 

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One reason for a tach otherwise your just guessing. I just kept the rpm's low and engine temp cool, vary the engine rpm. No prolonged steady speeds above 60. After 300 I gave it a few full throttle sprints but not for long. Sitting at 450 miles with snow in the forecast.
Maybe be a few months before anymore miles. Just enough miles to know what I want to change over the winter, not much. Handle bars and build a rack.
 

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I'll suggest that it is Good (for the rings) to use Full Throttle while Quickly shifting up thru the gears for proper ring seating during engine break-in.
But it is BAD (for the piston skirts) to Exceed the RPM Limit of 4000 RPM during the first few hundred miles of engine operation on the long stroke KLR650 engine.
This is how I'm running mine. Acceleration pulls followed by some somewhat aggressive deceleration to seat the rings.
Avoiding highways or idling through town if I can to avoid steady speed, low-load situations.
 

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Let me ask if there is a 'Speed Limit' in each gear Sticker posted on the face of the meter on these 2022 models?
 

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Let me ask if there is a 'Speed Limit' in each gear Sticker posted on the face of the meter on these 2022 models?
No, there'd be no room for such a thing. Attached is the page from the new model's manual.
 

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I am quite surprised that they have increased the break-in pace by That Much, That Early!

6000 rpm beginning at a mere 150 miles/200km. 88 miles per hr in high gear could legally get one a speeding ticket on any highway in the USA, I think.

From a mere 250miles/350km "Ride Moderately". HAHAHA!!!! They have already encouraged their owners to exceed "moderation"!
 
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I am quite surprised that they have increased the break-in pace by That Much, That Early!

6000 rpm beginning at a mere 150 miles/200km. 88 miles per hr in high gear could legally get one a speeding ticket on any highway in the USA, I think.

From a mere 250miles/350km "Ride Moderately". HAHAHA!!!! They have already encouraged their owners to exceed "moderation"!
It is a bit humorous. But even though it is an "antiquated" engine, it's still made on modern machines, with modern metallurgy. I think all that's left for the end user to do for breaking in, is getting those rings seated proper to prevent oil burning.

Although insanely more powerful, the KTM 690/Husqvarna 701 series bikes are big singles. They too have similar issues with oil bypassing the rings. Seems that people that have babied the bikes through break-in end up with oil consumption.
 

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this is one of those topics that polarize people; on one side are those that go 100% by the manual which usually suggests limited throttle, rpm, etc. for the first XXX miles.....on the other hand are the "beat it like a rented mule right out of the gate" people.

I make sure to avoid high rpms right off the bat and particularly, high sustained rpms. I will make sure I don't use copious amounts of throttle until the bike has warmed up completely but I do use compression braking and full throttle almost right away to help break in the rings properly. I also do a very early oil change (200 - 500 miles). I think many good heat cycles and full throttle runs varying the speed and rpms is beneficial. Here's my break in video for my 440-6 (skip to 1:26) :giggle:
 

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Although insanely more powerful, the KTM 690/Husqvarna 701 series bikes are big singles. They too have similar issues with oil bypassing the rings. Seems that people that have babied the bikes through break-in end up with oil consumption.
I just looked at a KTM 690 parts screen, it has a needle bearing bottom rod bearing similar to the KLR's.

A PDW crankshaft oil control orifice might reduce their higher speed oil consumption also. :)
 

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I follow the thought process of low idle times, hard quick acceleration and minimal highway during break in of all my new vehicles and never had one use oil. Maybe the klr will be my first;). I will say that I changed oil and filter in my '22 at 400 miles and it looked like more metal than oil LOL. But 1000 looked normal.
 

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It’s sounding like this controversial topic isn’t that controversial around here.

I just looked at a KTM 690 parts screen, it has a needle bearing bottom rod bearing similar to the KLR's.

A PDW crankshaft oil control orifice might reduce their higher speed oil consumption also. :)
They could also fix all the false neutrals in the top half of the gear box.
 

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Oh, that. Wait until the cold and flu season is here and we start talking about home remedies and such. Feed a cold, starve a fever, and that sort of thing. Or is it the other way around? IONO. Rotella. 92 octane. Kenda K270.
 

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Nay, bro! Kenda K270 and K761 are the best $100/pair-delivered-to-your-door-tires-that-fit-the-KLR in the world. The best that money can buy. They will outperform every other $100/pair-delivered-to-your-door-tires-that-fit-the-KLR in all categories of technical tire performance. Prove me wrong. Go ahead, I double-dog dare you.
 
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