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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi,

I've ridden a 2008 KLR 650 for the last few years. A couple weeks ago it wouldn't start. I thought the issue was the starter motor but I checked and the starter motor works fine. So my next guess is that the engine seized.

I'm not a mechanic just someone who can hack things occasionally. So my question is, does it make sense to get the bike towed to a mechanic and if the engine is seized is it worth rebuilding or should I cut my loses now?

Background: I have been riding the bike around town, ie under 10 miles. The last time I rode it was a month ago. It ran and parked without any issues that I noticed. I have recharged the battery and installed a new starter. Unfortunately it turns out the old starter still works so that wasn't the issue. The relay between the battery and the starter also seems fine. If I try to start the bike their is a loud clicking, I think caused by the starter motor. On hitting the ignition the voltage across the starter relay drops from 12V to about 3V and I think I can feel the pin in the solenoid drop if I'm holding it. I haven't changed the oil since last year but its not low and I only rode the bike about once a week.

Thanks.
 

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Way too little info from you. Could be a simple dis-charged battery from your vague description.

Was it running when you last Turned IT OFF? Or did it DIE a sudden death while in-motion the last time you were riding it? When was the last time it was running? Two days, two weeks or 6 months ago?

It is doubtful that the engine 'seized' while motion-less over the winter.
 

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My vote is it needs a new battery.
 

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My vote is it needs a new battery.
Giving us the voltage across the Battery when the Starter Motor Clicks would be helpful. If the battery voltage (at the Battery's Terminals) drops below 10 Volts when the Starter Motor clicks, either the Battery is discharged or failing that (no pun intended) I'd be voting with KLR4evr, a new and fully charged Battery will be needed.
 

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I coul$ have been a little more specific. I had similar issues on my Goldwing and because I had a fairly new Yuasa battery I ruled it out as the problem. Chased my tail checking starter and relays and switches. Finally caved and replaced the battery and all was good. No more Yuasa batteries for me either. A month off warranty and they wouldn’t do nothing.
 

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always start at the battery and no, it doesn't matter how old it is and a simple voltage test doesn't prove a battery is good

Dave
 

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Jump the battery to a car. If it then starts properly, you should be very suspicious of the battery or loose connections at the battery.
 

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The OP is questioning if the engine is seized. You should be able to shift it into the upper gears (5th) and rotate the rear wheel to turn the engine, either by hand or roll bump it with the clutch if needed.
 

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Dan, It would almost be simpler to remove the large plastic plug on the LH engine cover and rotate the engine CCW with a 19 mm socket, this way one can actually 'feel' what is happening. (If one is familiar with engines, I recon.)

But from his added information, I'll suggest loose terminals or bad battery.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks for the feedback.

I hope to get the bike jumped later this week. With the bike off the voltage across battery is approximately 11.7V, which drops to 9.4V with the bike on, and 7.3V when the ignition being hit. I assume this means I need a new battery?

I can also rotate the rear wheel a bit in 2nd gear, I tested that before writing the original post. But it didn't think about the battery possibly being fully charged yet too weak to start the bike, so I thought the engine seized.
 

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.............. i didn't think about the battery possibly being fully charged yet too weak to start the bike, so I thought the engine seized.
Now you know the battery is not fully charged or not capable of taking a full charge. A fully charged good battery would have about 12.7 volts.

Hopefully a jump start will end your worries about the engine and then you can trouble shoot the battery problem.
 

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I hope to get the bike jumped later this week. With the bike off the voltage across battery is approximately 11.7V, which drops to 9.4V with the bike on, and 7.3V when the ignition being hit. I assume this means I need a new battery?

I can also rotate the rear wheel a bit in 2nd gear, I tested that before writing the original post. But it didn't think about the battery possibly being fully charged yet too weak to start the bike, so I thought the engine seized.
Q.) New Battery?

A.) Maybe. I'd certainly try recharging the one you have first. If for no other reason than it simply costs less.
 

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I hope to get the bike jumped later this week. With the bike off the voltage across battery is approximately 11.7V, which drops to 9.4V with the bike on, and 7.3V when the ignition being hit. I assume this means I need a new battery?
Those are the same symptoms I had with my Goldwing Battery. You’ve likely got a dead cell. No way is 7.3 V going to spin your motor over.

Get yourself a quality replacement and I’m sure you’all be riding again. I bought a Deca, no more Yuasa junk for me.
 

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I had exactly the same on my 2007. It turned out to be a loose battery connection. Re tighten it and it was good to go. Check your terminals. Cheers Lars
 

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From the information provided, the engine is seized and is of little value. The rest of the bike is just scrap at this point also. But, I'm feeling generous. I'll pick up the bike and give you $439 to help you get over your loss.
 

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From the information provided, the engine is seized and is of little value. The rest of the bike is just scrap at this point also. But, I'm feeling generous. I'll pick up the bike and give you $439 to help you get over your loss.
I'm just guessing that you are looking for a very cheap deal on a used KLR, outdoorgb?

Shame on you for trying to take unfair advantage of a new rider.
 
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