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Discussion Starter · #21 ·
I went one step ahead and installed (dry run) cams and camshafts... Went to measure the valve clearance and her is what I got....Am I okay to leave as is....Now next step is remove the other cover and look at the oil screen :)
Valve specs.jpg
 

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Do you have a Clymer or other manual? You need to adjust those clearances. The specification for intakes is .004”-.008”. For exhausts, .006”-.010”

Your exhaust valves are too tight. You will need to swap or buy new shims to get them in spec, and you should shoot for as close to .010” as possible, for 2 reasons. 1. Allow for future wear, which reduces clearances, and 2. Easier starting.

Intakes are in spec, but as long as you have to remove the cams anyway, increase the clearance of the left valve to as close to .008” as you can. Same reasons as above.

NEVER run valves too tight. You will end up burning an exhaust valve by doing that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
Good to know, Thank you PeteK.... Going to pop the caps off later on and get the readings off the shims. So I will shoot for as close to .008 for intake and .010 for exhaust. Thank you
 

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The crankshaft woodruff key looks to be centered between the cylinder studs more appropriately. :)

Shims are in increments of 0.05mm / .002inches.
So, go 1 size thinner on LH IN.
2 sizes thinner on LH EX and 3 sizes thinner on RH EX if your .004 gauge was a snug fit. If it was a sloppy .004 go only 2 sizes thinner.
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 ·
So I went back and remeasured the valve clearance again.... I found that the .007 feeler guage was a little tight going in so went with the .006 on the left intake instead.....The others did not change.... See pic below....

So if I am correct.... I can swap my exhaust shims (.255mm) to my intake side, this should give me the right clearance for the intake valve sides....If I am wrong please correct me....

Then all I have to do is get a couple of new shims for the exhaust side...Thinking a couple of .240 shims should work. Your thoughts.
Top end valve shim numbers.jpg
 

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Yes you can swap around shims. Most people do that to get best fit, then buy what they need. (Also, you’re missing a “0” behind the inches decimal point).

So you have 255’s on both exhaust buckets. On the right one you are showing .004” clearance, whxich should require .006” to get to .010”. That’s three sizes, so a 240 should do it. On the left exhaust you are showing .005”, so going to a 240 would bring that up to .011”,slightly more than the spec. I’m. It PDW, but I’m oretty sure he would advise you to put a 245 in there to get .009” clearance. Me, I would go for the 240 and .011”, because exhaust valves wear and lose their clearance faster than intakes, so after running it for 5000 miles or so, it will be back in the spec range. The only downside to this is that you might hear a little valve noise.

Intakes: With the 265’s you are within spec, but I would still change shims to get to the right intake to .008”, and the left to .007”. Then you probably won’t have to touch them for the rest of the life of the bike. As noted above, more valve clearance helps with starting, due to decreased valve overlap.
 

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. . .more valve clearance helps with starting, due to decreased valve overlap.
Thanks, PeteK! I always wondered WHY men said tight valves compromised starting. Sounds valid, to me!

Although reducing overlap may affect, slightly, high-rpm maximum horsepower (q.v., MC Mod, reducing valve overlap), reliable, quick, convenient starting seems more important to typical KLRistas' service life scenario, I would think.
 

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Discussion Starter · #28 ·
PeterK, thank you.... I am going to try and locate some shims (yes missing a zero :( )... I will post updates once I locate shims and gasket set comes in...
Thank you everyone, so far its been a fun project, hope it all works out :)
 

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I am going to try and locate some shims.
I've heard tell BMW shims fit KLR650s; might be a convenient source, should a BMW dealership exist near you.

Yet, hardly any dealership has anything approaching an inventory of spare and repair parts; might be as well off to order shims.
 

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Discussion Starter · #30 ·
I got a line of some shims, getting them delivered next week @ $5 shim, and a couple bucks for shipping, should have them in by late next week. Keep you posted as I begin to put it back together... :)
 

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Thanks, PeteK! I always wondered WHY men said tight valves compromised starting. Sounds valid, to me!

Although reducing overlap may affect, slightly, high-rpm maximum horsepower (q.v., MC Mod, reducing valve overlap), reliable, quick, convenient starting seems more important to typical KLRistas' service life scenario, I would think.
What high-RPM horsepower? We’re talking KLRs here...
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Just to update, the shims that arrived this morning are wrong. The ones that came in are about the size of pencil head eraser. :( The ones I need are about the size of a silver dollar. Now I will have to try and locate them again. If anyone reading this has a few shims (240) that are willing to part with, please let me know.. I am located in S.W Ontario Canada.
 

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What high-RPM horsepower? We’re talking KLRs here...
OK; "higher-rpm horsepower;" FIXED!

Basically maximum horsepower of any 4-stroke engine is produced a higher value (no matter how little horsepower we're speaking of!) with greater valve overlap than stock timing, at the higher-rpm spectrum of engine operation. (Sad to say, higher valve overlap may result in LOWER horsepower at lower rpm, compared to stock valve timing setups.)

Corroborating the concept, camshaft specifications for "performance" camshafts typically feature greater valve overlap than stock, be it from Briggs & Stratton, Maserati, Yugo, . . . or even the mighty KLR! :)

DISCLAIMER: No, I don't KNOW any of this; content is only what I've heard the big boys say on the playground! :)
 

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Just to update, the shims that arrived this morning are wrong. The ones that came in are about the size of pencil head eraser. :( The ones I need are about the size of a silver dollar. Now I will have to try and locate them again. If anyone reading this has a few shims (240) that are willing to part with, please let me know.. I am located in S.W Ontario Canada.
I've heard BMW shims work on KLRs; a possibility perhaps of no help to you, given the dispersion of BMW dealerships.
 

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Did you accidentally use a KLX650 parts screen when placing your order? I think those are either 7.5 or 9.5mm shims.

Most of the 1980's Yamaha 3 & 4 cylinder air-cooled engines also used the 29mm shims.
There is also a Ford / Toyota model car engine that uses 29mm shims.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Well, just ordered them from a dealer....... $16 each... Should be in late next week. I will post pictures as I put it all back together.
 

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Discussion Starter · #39 ·
Update.... Got the shims a few hours ago. Set the shims in, put the cams in, reset the timing chain and remeasured....
Looks like I got ... well pictures tell the story better....Black were the old measurements, red are the new measurements. Hoping to put the covers back on this weekend, gaskets came in too.
29970
 

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I think that you used one too many zeros (0) on your LH exhaust reading. :)

Better that the LH side be beyond spec by a hair than the RH (KACR) side, imo. Spec .006-.010 inches.
 
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