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Discussion Starter #1
First of all, what is the secret to getting the female side of this off?

Second, no freakin way I am going to pay $90-$100 for this. I am either going to wire a manual switch for it or get one of these: Any thoughts or experiences with???

(ORIGINAL) Kawasaki 27010-1443
M18-1.5 with an o-ring seal, Normally Open, Closes @ 203°F-214°F, Opens @ 189°F or less

Wells SW1444
M18 x 1.5 with o-ring seal. two terminals, No other info provided. Local for $38

Santech MT0537 -- and only $24.99

KTM 60035045000 @ $21.24



Thanks for any input. Mike in Texas
 

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Beware.

Generation 1 thermal fan switches picked up a ground, for low-current control voltage for the FAN RELAY.

Generation 2 thermal fan switches carry FULL FAN CURRENT (later-model bikes don't have no stinkin' fan relays). The late-model fan is fused at 15 amps, control voltage for the moldy-oldie fan relays involved a mere fraction of that current.

So, your "catalog" thermal switches might work on a 2007-or-earlier KLR, but . . . not so much, on a 2008 or later machine (because the switches may not carry successfully the entire fan current).

You need a thermal switch rated for full fan current; Kawasaki may be the only practicable source (sorry about the cost implications).

Oh, yes; how do you KNOW your thermal switch is defective?

For reference:

 

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Discussion Starter #3
damn so sorry, its a 2009. I know better than to leave that info out. I jumped the two wires going into the switch. The fan came on instantly. That told me all the rest in the system was functioning correctly. Yes? No?
 

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Is the bike overheating?

The normal way to test a switch like that, involves boiling water and a continuity test, although depending on elevation, you might need to add something to the water to raise the boiling point.

Remember the switch isn't seeing the same temperature as the gauge is reading, as the gauge gives a reading from the temp sensor in the head.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I have had 3 of these bikes. First one of the new style. It runs real real cool, maybe 1/8 needle position (at least according to the dash gauge). Now that its getting warmer in Texas, I have noticed if I get stuck in stop and go traffic too long or a real long light it rockets to about 7/8 from HOT. Fan never comes on.
 

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It should be easy enough to pull the fan thermostat to see if that's working, but again, the fan thermostat isn't seeing the same temp as the gauge.

I'd definitely want to throw that switch in some boiling water before I dropped close to a bill on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
So this relay that is new to the 08 and above, if its out will the fan still run when jumped at the plug connection?
 
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