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I was thinking of doing the first oil change and wanted recommendations for oil type and also should I change the filter now or wait till 600 miles?
I have 115 miles on the bike right now and am planning on riding saturday approximately 120 miles then chnaging the oil and next week doing about a 280 mile ride. All input is appreciated... Thanks
 

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No harm in changing it. I did mine soon after I got my bike. Some do it first thing. I would do the filter, too. Should be some metal on there.

Be careful you don't strip the pan when you put the drain plug back in (I did). Faulty torque wrench. And aluminum is soft. You want my .02, don't even use a torque wrench...not a load bearing part and you'll know if it's too loose. Drip, drip, drip. I personally think re-using crush washers is a bad idea. Some people do.

And make sure you don't through away the metal cylinder that goes through the filter.

If this is new to you, go to youtube and search 'klr oil change'. Tells you all you need to know. Takes about five minutes to watch the video and about the same to change oil and filter.

Hope this helps. I'm not even getting into the oil type debate. Personally, I use Castrol 10w40 MC oil, but that's cause I bought a gang of it on sale. Will be switching to Rotella next change. But oil is like religion. You'll see. :)
 

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I would say do it now! I changed mine at 500 miles and there was a lot of metal filings! Make sure to take a look at the filter!
 

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There's bound to be metal. That's normal if you're breaking in a new engine and nothing to worry...or if it is, you'll know it. Just change it and admire the sparkly filter. :)
 

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I just did before the holiday weekend at 210 miles and there was
plenty of silvery pearlesent goo in the oil. Engine break ins have changed
drastically with the advent of CNC's and laser-measured machining. I expected
to see much more than what came out. Some people just drive normally right
off the showroom floor. Some baby it for a thousand miles. There's as many
opinions as there are brands of oil to use. Getting contaminated oil out is never
a bad idea regardless of how you are running the engine in. I babied mine for
about 35 miles and started hitting it harder and harder although never beating the
engine or going over 5k rpm's as of yet (430 miles now.) Good to see new people
on board here as I am too and very much still in the learning phase. Welcome, pull
up a chair, and share questions and opinions.

Lata,
CheeeeeeeeeeeeeapMark
 

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Oopsie. A public apology for saying "never beating or going over 5k rpms.".

Did a couple of top-speed runs getting the carb dialed in.

The frugal one
 

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Count me in the "sooner is just fine" 1st oil change group. My 09' has 129 miles showing as of this morning when I changed the oil & filter. The OEM oil filter was dirty looking and I did see some fine metal particles in there,too. A small amount of panic set in when I dropped the old filter and forgot which way it came out in relation to the metal tube through it's middle. Take the tube out of the old filter and put it in the new filter as instructed in the owner's manual. Then install it with the smaller end pointing in the engine.
 

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That metal tube will only go in one way. I've had that panic moment. :18:
 

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Gotta say, the factory says 600 miles for a reason. Whenever oil is changed, there's a bit of time where there is no oil pumped into the engine, and this is definately not good during breakin when the parts are not yet saturated with oil. The filter will have metal in it, that's why it's there. The engine will NOT however have shavings in it.
 

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Good point Hip.
Any filter doing it's job will have the crap in it leaving the oil mainly clean,
and the pan that holds it. I drained two qts. out and didn't touch the filter yet.
The oil (I hope) never cavitated in an air pocket.
Crossing fingers,
Cheeeeeeeeeeeeaap
 

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Discussion Starter #12
got her done

Did the oil change. Guys there was very very little shavings in the oil filter. It was only slightly darker than new and the odometer had 186 on it. I feel better knowing all is good. But I don't think it really needed it. I am a service writer for a big name auto dealership and have seen a lot of motors inside. This was way clean . So If it gives you piece of mind to do it at that low of mileage its all good. Can it wait till 600. I am betting yes. Me I will error on the side of caution and do the maintenance as a preventative.
Got a chance today to go through the bike and break out some loctite. everything was solid. Better safe than sorry though.... We are gonna do a ride up to cold springs tavern in Santa Barbara tomorrow morn. I will let you know how the ride goes. Its about a 250 mile ride there and back for me. So we will see how that seat feels after that.... Rock on my brothers....
 

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First Oil Change

I just did my first oil change ever on my KLR 650 today at 596 miles. I used full synthetic and I watched a bunch of videos and read up on what others experienced before hand.
 

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Some men say break in on dino; personally, I don't think it makes a whit of difference.

With the recommended API Service Code and ambient temperature-appropriate viscosity, what? YOU worry? :)
 

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Sir, it says 1,000 km (1,000 km x .6 = 600 miles)
Some men say break in on dino; personally, I don't think it makes a whit of difference.

With the recommended API Service Code and ambient temperature-appropriate viscosity, what? YOU worry? :)
Sir, it says 1,000 km (1,000 km x .6 = 600 miles)


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Sir, it says 1,000 km (1,000 km x .6 = 600 miles)Sir, it says 1,000 km (1,000 km x .6 = 600 miles).
In my post you quoted, I did not address the oil change INTERVAL (as in, miles between changes); only the LUBRICANT type (viz., "dino" (dinosaur-origin fossil-residue PETROLEUM) oil, vs. SYNTHETIC oil.

Both certain dino and synthetic oils respectfully fulfill Kawasaki's recommended API Service Codes and viscosities, IIRC. Use any of these, and fear not (my philosophy; YMMV and after all, your bike! :) )

======================

Just a thought: Why are we discussing such an ANCIENT threat? :)
 

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In my post you quoted, I did not address the oil change INTERVAL (as in, miles between changes); only the LUBRICANT type (viz., "dino" (dinosaur-origin fossil-residue PETROLEUM) oil, vs. SYNTHETIC oil.

Both certain dino and synthetic oils respectfully fulfill Kawasaki's recommended API Service Codes and viscosities, IIRC. Use any of these, and fear not (my philosophy; YMMV and after all, your bike! :) )
I really need to stop using the app on my tablet and just use the computer. My bad. I didn't mean to quote you. I meant to quote someone else.

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Personally, I think it's fine to do an early oil change......250 miles may be a bit soon, but not a big deal IMO. I would change the filter at the same time.

.....and since you are a new KLR Owner and someone's mentioned the filter tube and the drain plug, here's my list of "Top New KLR Owner Common Mistakes"......man, I need to find a better title!;


1) Oil drain plug overtightening: it is relatively common for people to overtighten the oil drain plug.....usually to stop a leak after the gasket/washer has inadvertently fallen into the used oil or left stuck to the bottom of the engine! best case is stripped threads, worst is a cracked case. Make sure the washer is in place and use a torque wrench Note; my manual says 17 ft lbs, Eaglemike recommends 15 ft lbs with his low profile drain plug which is what I use. Some Gen2 manuals specify 21 ft lbs but there has been no change in the plug or case which would affect the drain plug torque and people have stripped their drain plugs at this setting: beware!

- 2) Chain tension: many owners and some shops overtighten the KLR's drive chain; due to the long travel suspension and geometry the KLR needs more slack than other bikes people may be used to. If the chain is too tight you risk damaging the countershaft seal and bearing as well as possibly the wheel bearings along with premature wear of the drive chain and sprockets. Quick check; with the bike on the sidestand, you should be able to touch the chain to the bottom rearmost portion of the chain slipper but not the metal swingarm itself.

- 3) Speedo drive: it is common for people to post problems with their speedo after they've had the front wheel off. If you don't make sure the drive slots in the hub are aligned with the speedo drive tangs you risk bending the drive tangs and worse, breaking the hub. Time consuming to repair, expensive to replace, easy to avoid!

- 4) Oil Level: the factory KLR oil level sight glass is arguably too low....additionally some KLR's burn oil at various rates so it is imperative that the oil level is constantly checked. Luckily the sight glass makes this very easy to do. My suggestion is to keep the oil level at the very top of the sight glass with the bike level and to check it before every ride and at every fuel stop. The first failure from low oil levels is likely to be the cam bores in the head......and used KLR heads are getting difficult to find and are expensive. Keep an eye on that oil level!

- 5) Overtightening of other fasteners; similar to the oil drain plug there are a few other fasteners that cause significant problems if overtightened; the valve cover bolts are one such fastener - the manual calls up 69 inch lbs (NOT ft. lbs!) but Eaglemike suggests 55 in lbs which is a safer value. Another problem fastener is the footpeg mounting bolts; the factory nuts welded in the frame box are very thin with only 3 or 4 threads catching......these often strip out necessitating a repair. To avoid the problem, consider not using accessories that bolt to the bike using these bolts (i.e. centerstands) and torque them properly. I've heard that some manuals show 45NM (33 ft lbs) and some versions show 25 Nm (18 ft lbs)......I will suggest that the 33 ft lbs is a mistake and too much; I go with the 18 to avoid stripping the nuts and because this value falls in line with the recommended torque for generic 8mm fasteners in the manual. Safety wiring the bolt heads is also a wise precaution as loose bolts take the threads out quickly.

- 6) Throwing away the tube when changing the oil filter. People often mistakenly toss the metal tube that is inserted in the oil filter when they throw the old filter in the trash....make sure it's there and put it back in the right way.

- 7) attempting a counterbalance lever (doohickey) adjusting bolt adjustment without first ensuring the lever and spring are both intact and the spring has tension. Failure to do so can introduce a catastrophic amount of play into the counterbalance chain system.

-8) Not checking fasteners for proper torque at least at every oil change. Especially foot pegs and sub-frame bolts. The fasteners that Kawasaki put in place are adequate, but once torque falls below spec vibration can loosen the fastener. A loose fastener will quickly fail if it is under load.
 
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