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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Issue 1: The '22 KLR's have a condition that causes it to have an abrupt, ON/OFF, throttle response at or near zero throttle opening. In this throttle position, the engine provides too much engine braking, and the power goes on and off like a light switch, as the throttle is moved in small minute increments between open and closed. This condition makes the bike jerky when the rider is attempting to slow down and/or transitioning from open to closed throttle. It is very noticeable in 1, 2, 3 gear.

Issue 2: The '22 KLR has a clutch switch that also acts as a signal to the ECM to raise the engine idle speed when the bike is in gear with the clutch pulled in. This signal however, causes a fluctuating idle when the bike is in gear, clutch pulled in, from very small pressure induced movements by the rider's hand at the clutch lever.

I believe I found a simple fix to these two issues above with this device from 3D Cycle Parts:
3D Cycle Parts Clutch Bypass Plug

This part simply bypasses the clutch switch. However, it also eliminated the throttle abruptness in Issue #1 above. How did it do it? I believe it disabled Fuel Cut at closed throttle. How do I know? I don't know for sure but let me explain what I'm feeling/hearing:

BEFORE: When I close the throttle, the engine tone changes to what sounds like a deep sucking, growling sound from the exhaust. Almost like the Jake Brake on a semi, only less loud. Along with this sound, is a very abrupt transition to strong engine braking. This gets worse with aftermarket freer flowing exhaust. The exhaust does sound good to me when it does this, but it feels like crap in terms of throttle response. It's very annoying on pavement, and it gets pretty annoying off road at slow speed in 1st gear in the stand up riding position. Closing the throttle feels like I hit the front brakes!

AFTER: When I close the throttle, the engine tone changes to a much more gentle burble. Like a normal engine sound at closed throttle. Most importantly, when the engine transitions to zero throttle, there is no abrupt and strong engine braking. Instead it is a very smooth transition to slowing down. And when the throttle is opened, even so slightly, the power comes on VERY smooth. I can literally, oscillate the throttle between open/close in ANY gear, and have smooth power transitions throughout. It is an amazing transformation.

The fluctuating idle is completely gone when the bike is stopped, in gear, clutch pulled in. It maintains a low, normal idle.

With the Warp 9 clutch lever, the engine can be started in gear with clutch pulled in.
 

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Very good to know! I’ve been waiting for Kawi Brad’s o2 sensor delete kit to become available before purchasing the clutch bypass plug. Want to buy it all at the same time. I’ve been in contact with him, and unfortunately he won’t have the o2 delete available for at least a few more months.

Looks like the clutch bypass plug has another added benefit, thanks for sharing your findings!
I was on Ebbetts pass over the weekend, and the on/off throttle response was driving me bonkers. Hopefully this will fix that (y)
 
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Mine does it too but I just don't close the throttle. Haha. I was a little leary to bypass the clutch on a gen 3 because I was concerned that the ecu would revert to a "bike in neutral" fueling map which may be detrimental long term. I don't have proof related to a gen 3 but i do have previous experience with this on other fuel injection bikes. The end all fix was always a ecu reflash but we don't have that luxury.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 · (Edited)
Mine does it too but I just don't close the throttle. Haha. I was a little leary to bypass the clutch on a gen 3 because I was concerned that the ecu would revert to a "bike in neutral" fueling map which may be detrimental long term. I don't have proof related to a gen 3 but i do have previous experience with this on other fuel injection bikes. The end all fix was always a ecu reflash but we don't have that luxury.
I'm 100% in agreement with you.

I think it reverts to "Clutch Pulled In" map. Maybe. Or "Bike In Neutral". Whatever the case, it appears to Richen up the map at lower RPM. I don't know what the threshold is, maybe it changes the map below 3k RPM...like in other FI bikes. This is probably the case as it is with others bikes, if so, then it won't affect fueling MOST times like during steady state cruising at over 45 mph+. It only richens up the fueling below a certain RPM. In my humble opinion, it is so worth the extra fuel usage. It is so much more enjoyable to ride and not just as slow speeds and not just on pavement...everywhere! Especially when you need it to be smooth the most. I no longer have to think about and compensate for the abruptness. I shut the throttle when and where I want to and I get a smooth transition. Less effort to ride. Love the bike even more.

Hey! Perhaps I can now pull the Snorkel once again, and get that glorious sound back. And the slightly rich mixture will normalize it. (y)
 

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I think I'll slip a mini fuse in my switch and take it for a spin after work. Maybe the rain will stop by then. It'll be a good excuse to pick up a pizza
Can I have a slice? :ROFLMAO:
Looking at the clutch bypass plug, it almost looks simple enough to make fairly easily.
 
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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Oh yeah. Remove that Snorkel. Holy crap it sounds SOOoooo good! A bit snappier on throttle too. Otherwise no change in On/Off Throttle behavior...still perfect. I know you two guys have modified exhausts. Take those snorkels off and listen to it howl. Still not obnoxiously loud at highway speeds, just a bit louder. Don't know why Kawasaki puts a Snorkel on these to neuter the KLR's voice.
 

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Also removed the snorkel from the inside of the air box. More air is always better! Now for that stupid o2 sensor…..come on Brad!
 
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I'm 100% in agreement with you.

I think it reverts to "Clutch Pulled In" map. Maybe. Or "Bike In Neutral". Whatever the case, it appears to Richen up the map at lower RPM. I don't know what the threshold is, maybe it changes the map below 3k RPM...like in other FI bikes. This is probably the case as it is with others bikes, if so, then it won't affect fueling MOST times like during steady state cruising at over 45 mph+. It only richens up the fueling below a certain RPM. In my humble opinion, it is so worth the extra fuel usage. It is so much more enjoyable to ride and not just as slow speeds and not just on pavement...everywhere! Especially when you need it to be smooth the most. I no longer have to think about and compensate for the abruptness. I shut the throttle when and where I want to and I get a smooth transition. Less effort to ride. Love the bike even more.

Hey! Perhaps I can now pull the Snorkel once again, and get that glorious sound back. And the slightly rich mixture will normalize it. (y)
OK, so I saw this thread and it addressed the biggest annoyance on my '22 KLR. I do a lot of very slow speed training on pavement where you're playing at the edge of the clutch friction zone, and it drove me crazy that just when you're trying to add a tiny, tiny bit more power with the clutch, the engine speeds up on its own. Grrrr...
3d shows that the plug is backordered, so I just used a piece of wire as a jumper and taped it in place. Seems to work great at slow speed and I'm really happy about this. The only question I have is that now I'm getting a LOT of backfiring through the exhaust on deceleration from higher RPM. So do I just have to live with this to get the kind of low speed control that I want, both on and offroad? Or is there something special about the 3d plug that I don't know about?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
The only question I have is that now I'm getting a LOT of backfiring through the exhaust on deceleration from higher RPM. So do I just have to live with this to get the kind of low speed control that I want, both on and offroad? Or is there something special about the 3d plug that I don't know about?
I no longer have the stock muffler. I have the Yoshimura RS-2.

What I am hearing when I close the throttle is the normal burbling of an aftermarket exhaust. Even from WOT. Some may describe what I'm hearing as "slight backfiring". It is not popping or sounding like tiny firecrackers. Can you be more specific about what you're hearing? "Tiny Firecrackers" or loud popping sounds shouldn't happen.

The 3D plug just fools the ECM into thinking the clutch is always pulled in so it reverts to a slightly richer fueling below a certain RPM. That's why the Off Throttle Fuel Cut has been eliminated.
 

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The only question I have is that now I'm getting a LOT of backfiring through the exhaust on deceleration from higher RPM. So do I just have to live with this to get the kind of low speed control that I want, both on and offroad?
You may eventually read that those other guys may have already removed the exhaust AirInjectionSystem and installed an EagleMike block-off plug into its air port near the spark plug, to clean out the clutter, lighten the bike and a side benefit is probably less or no afterfire out the tail pipe with this clutch switch mod.
,
 

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^^^What Paul said. I noticed that installing the air injection block off plate on my gen 3 wasn’t quite as effective for eliminating decel popping as it was on my previous gen 2.
It still did get rid of most of the decel popping, and well worth it IMO.
 

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I still get a tiny bit when the bike isn't up to full operating temp but it goes away quickly. I have yet to bypass the clutch switch. Work has been consuming me lately. I need to retire already. Maybe next year.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
I still get a tiny bit when the bike isn't up to full operating temp but it goes away quickly. I have yet to bypass the clutch switch. Work has been consuming me lately. I need to retire already. Maybe next year.
Yes me too, depends on how quickly I shut the throttle. I'll get that one pop the first mile after cold start. Otherwise zero. The burbling on closed throttle and deceleration....just burbling. No little popping at all. Maybe it will pop if I shut the throttle from WOT. Haven't experienced that yet since the switch mod.
 

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I no longer have the stock muffler. I have the Yoshimura RS-2.

What I am hearing when I close the throttle is the normal burbling of an aftermarket exhaust. Even from WOT. Some may describe what I'm hearing as "slight backfiring". It is not popping or sounding like tiny firecrackers. Can you be more specific about what you're hearing? "Tiny Firecrackers" or loud popping sounds shouldn't happen.

The 3D plug just fools the ECM into thinking the clutch is always pulled in so it reverts to a slightly richer fueling below a certain RPM. That's why the Off Throttle Fuel Cut has been eliminated.
I'm running a Leo Vince exhaust with the 'middle' baffle in it (it comes with three sound level baffles). The amount of popping could be described as 'PTSD Triggering'. Yikes. I might try putting the quiet baffle in to see what it does, out of curiosity. As long as it's not hurting anything, I can probably live with it as is, but we'll see. The low speed throttle/clutch control is amazing and that makes it a worthwhile mod for me. Why they felt the need to rev up this torque monster when the clutch is released is beyond me.
 

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I'm running a Leo Vince exhaust with the 'middle' baffle in it (it comes with three sound level baffles). The amount of popping could be described as 'PTSD Triggering'. Yikes. I might try putting the quiet baffle in to see what it does, out of curiosity. As long as it's not hurting anything, I can probably live with it as is, but we'll see. The low speed throttle/clutch control is amazing and that makes it a worthwhile mod for me. Why they felt the need to rev up this torque monster when the clutch is released is beyond me.
Install the air injection block-off plate. It’ll reduce decel popping by 75%. It’ll even remove some weight which is always a +
 
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