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Went ahead and did a more permanent mod to the clutch switch. Ended up cutting the connector off, soldering the 2 wires together and put some shrink wrap over it. Removed the clutch switch as well.
Think I got just about every “delete” done on this klr now. The way I see it: one less thing to worry about (y)
 

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Issue 1: The '22 KLR's have a condition that causes it to have an abrupt, ON/OFF, throttle response at or near zero throttle opening. In this throttle position, the engine provides too much engine braking, and the power goes on and off like a light switch, as the throttle is moved in small minute increments between open and closed. This condition makes the bike jerky when the rider is attempting to slow down and/or transitioning from open to closed throttle. It is very noticeable in 1, 2, 3 gear.

Issue 2: The '22 KLR has a clutch switch that also acts as a signal to the ECM to raise the engine idle speed when the bike is in gear with the clutch pulled in. This signal however, causes a fluctuating idle when the bike is in gear, clutch pulled in, from very small pressure induced movements by the rider's hand at the clutch lever.

I believe I found a simple fix to these two issues above with this device from 3D Cycle Parts:
3D Cycle Parts Clutch Bypass Plug

This part simply bypasses the clutch switch. However, it also eliminated the throttle abruptness in Issue #1 above. How did it do it? I believe it disabled Fuel Cut at closed throttle. How do I know? I don't know for sure but let me explain what I'm feeling/hearing:

BEFORE: When I close the throttle, the engine tone changes to what sounds like a deep sucking, growling sound from the exhaust. Almost like the Jake Brake on a semi, only less loud. Along with this sound, is a very abrupt transition to strong engine braking. This gets worse with aftermarket freer flowing exhaust. The exhaust does sound good to me when it does this, but it feels like crap in terms of throttle response. It's very annoying on pavement, and it gets pretty annoying off road at slow speed in 1st gear in the stand up riding position. Closing the throttle feels like I hit the front brakes!

AFTER: When I close the throttle, the engine tone changes to a much more gentle burble. Like a normal engine sound at closed throttle. Most importantly, when the engine transitions to zero throttle, there is no abrupt and strong engine braking. Instead it is a very smooth transition to slowing down. And when the throttle is opened, even so slightly, the power comes on VERY smooth. I can literally, oscillate the throttle between open/close in ANY gear, and have smooth power transitions throughout. It is an amazing transformation.

The fluctuating idle is completely gone when the bike is stopped, in gear, clutch pulled in. It maintains a low, normal idle.

With the Warp 9 clutch lever, the engine can be started in gear with clutch pulled in.
thats set up that way so you dont stall the bike when letting the clutch out,,,,also put in a colder plug
 

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Discussion Starter · #45 ·
thats set up that way so you dont stall the bike when letting the clutch out,,,,also put in a colder plug
Yup I know what it's for. My VStrom has the same exact feature (without the fluctuating idle).

It's not a necessary feature. If a rider can't consistently balance the throttle and clutch for a smooth take off, they shouldn't be riding. If a noob needs this nanny feature, they need to learn to not stall it within 10 minutes of riding. It honestly does not take much to learn smooth take offs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #46 ·
Went ahead and did a more permanent mod to the clutch switch. Ended up cutting the connector off, soldering the 2 wires together and put some shrink wrap over it. Removed the clutch switch as well.
Think I got just about every “delete” done on this klr now. The way I see it: one less thing to worry about (y)
I need to do mine as clean as you did. My clutch switch is still on the lever perch and the Switch Plug is hastily zip tied to the handlebars.
 

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Took it for a 250mi ride today after bypassing the clutch switch. I can’t believe how much different the bike feels after that simple modification.

Observations:
Rpm’s are much lower and consistent. The idle fluctuation is now ZERO. I’m estimating it idles around 1,200max now.
That odd engine-braking during deceleration is also gone, along with that fidgety throttle feedback at lower speeds. The engine now has a different tone when decelerating.
At higher rpm deceleration, there is more high-pitch exhaust popping than before. It’s not overly obnoxious, but it is noticeable even when wearing earplugs.
I would imagine it’s more pronounced on a klr that still has it’s air injection system attached (mine has been deleted).
Fuel mileage appears to be the same.

All n all, this is a very desirable mod. The only thing I regret is not doing this 5,000mi ago.
Thanks OCL, you da man!
 

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thats set up that way so you dont stall the bike when letting the clutch out,,,,also put in a colder plug
Im not really buying the “colder plug” business, especially on a liquid cooled klr.
I could see the benefit in using a colder plug on an air-cooled bike like the Honda XR650L.
These engines have gobs of torque. If your stalling the engine at take-off, it’s likely user error.
 
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@OCL
Today I finally put in some overdue seat time with a mini fuse slipped into the back of the clutch switch to bypass and wow, it's really smoothed out. No more snatchy throttle. That on off from closed throttle position is no longer a thing. This bothered me on long steep gravel roads when coasting and then getting back on the throttle. I lived with it but it's officially gone now. Thanks for putting in the time to test this setup. You west coast guys definitely ride more than I do here. I am headed up to northern Wisconsin for 10 days next weekend and I'll put a couple thousand miles on without even trying but riding where I live here sucks.
I'm also hosting the adrider central rally in August up in Boulder junction Wisconsin so the KLR will be seeing some good riding this summer. Mostly 2 track sandy fire roads and very awesome twisty pavement. Very pretty area.
 

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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Took it for a 250mi ride today after bypassing the clutch switch. I can’t believe how much different the bike feels after that simple modification.

All n all, this is a very desirable mod. The only thing I regret is not doing this 5,000mi ago.
Thanks OCL, you da man!
Yourself and many others have done this mod now and are loving it. Just a few naysayers on Facebook who claim the abrupt throttle is user error. :ROFLMAO:

It sure is transformative. In fact it feels like a "mini tune" that one would purchase. Usually those tunes will remove Closed Throttle fuel cut and smooth On/Off throttle transition and reduce engine braking. You did it all for the cost of that little bypass fuse. (y)
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
@OCL
Today I finally put in some overdue seat time with a mini fuse slipped into the back of the clutch switch to bypass and wow, it's really smoothed out. No more snatchy throttle. That on off from closed throttle position is no longer a thing. This bothered me on long steep gravel roads when coasting and then getting back on the throttle. I lived with it but it's officially gone now. Thanks for putting in the time to test this setup. You west coast guys definitely ride more than I do here. I am headed up to northern Wisconsin for 10 days next weekend and I'll put a couple thousand miles on without even trying but riding where I live here sucks.
I'm also hosting the adrider central rally in August up in Boulder junction Wisconsin so the KLR will be seeing some good riding this summer. Mostly 2 track sandy fire roads and very awesome twisty pavement. Very pretty area.
I totally agree with you on how much better AND easier it is to ride off road. Especially in 1st or 2nd gear and your throttle position is hovering on closed/open, and your going through sketchy terrain! I used to have to slip the clutch just to smooth the on/off power transition at low speeds. It was a bit taxing to say the least. Now...don't need to! If I do my part and roll the power on gently (they way I should anyway), even down from idle in 2nd or 1st, power comes on nice and smooth. It just makes you appreciate the bike even more as it's no longer making you work hard just to be smooth.

Enjoy your long trip! Post up pictures.
 

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On my 2012 Super tenere, the throttle input drove me nuts as set by the factory. I fixed it by flashing the ecu with a map from either tune ecu or flashtune. I don't recall which one. If I apply 10 percent throttle I want 10 percent throttle. Apparently yamaha thought differently and had some curve built in. I basically changed it to a 1 to 1 ratio so I had smooth throttle everywhere. This clutch bypass feels like a similar fix. Clear as mud?
 

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On my 2012 Super tenere, the throttle input drove me nuts as set by the factory. I fixed it by flashing the ecu with a map from either tune ecu or flashtune. I don't recall which one. If I apply 10 percent throttle I want 10 percent throttle. Apparently yamaha thought differently and had some curve built in. I basically changed it to a 1 to 1 ratio so I had smooth throttle everywhere. This clutch bypass feels like a similar fix. Clear as mud?
I test rode a ST last year and couldn't stand the low speed jerkiness. I didn't even think to research it to see if there was a fix. LOL! But that's OK, I'm loving my KLR and loving it even more since disconnecting the clutch switch!
 

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Ok so first of all, 2022 KLR Adventure with 990 miles on the clock. Stabbed it with a paper clip yesterday evening and was surprised that the bike did in fact smooth out.

But, Why on earth does this work?? Here is my logical dilemma: the clutch safety switch exists to send "events" to the ECU regarding clutch pull, as mentioned earlier in the thread. When I close throttle and remain in gear I have done nothing to modulate the clutch action, therefore have created no "event" for the switch to register and send to the ECU, therefore, why on earth would bypassing this switch cause closed throttle in gear to smooth out when it has nothing to do with the communication of the switch? I know it is somewhat besides the point that it works but I like my machines to make sense! and let me say I am no mechanic, so I have no technical expertise in these matters.

Also, in a world of ecu maps, ride modes, and infinite adjustable computer modulated blah blah blah, props to the KLR for being simple enough to make changes to the way it rides using a freakin paper clip. If I decide to keep the bypass I will fashion a fuse to fit into the switch for more long term stability, but for now I'm just riding it around with a paper clip and electrical tape doing the job. I have really come to love this simplicity with the KLR.
 
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Discussion Starter · #57 ·
But, Why on earth does this work??
The ECU transitioning between Closed Throttle Fuel cut to Open Throttle fuel flow is what creates this On/Off throttle jerkiness during riding. Without CTFC, there is no On/Off throttle jerkiness because fuel is always flowing to the engine as it transitions back and forth between idle fuel flow to on throttle fuel flow.

The clutch switch sends a signal to the ECU that clutch is engaged (or not). The ECU knows if the bike is in gear and is moving at speed. The ECU enables Closed Throttle Fuel Cut whenever the following parameters are happening:

1) Clutch is engaged
2) Bike is in gear
3) Bike is moving at speed
4) Throttle is closed

When you disable the clutch switch, ECU thinks clutch is ALWAYS disengaged. Since the #1 condition above is not met, the ECU will not allow Closed Throttle Fuel Cut.

Put another way, the ECU will disable CTFC if the bike is idling (throttle is closed) with the clutch disengaged because shutting off fuel will shut the engine off.
 

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Put another way, the ECU will disable CTFC if the bike is idling (throttle is closed) with the clutch disengaged because shutting off fuel will shut the engine off.

That makes more sense! Thank you for explaining further. Now, is there any known down side to running the bike in this state full time? I know it has been previously mentioned that the bike may be running in "bike in neutral" fuel mapping, is this a negative factor for longevity?
 

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I know it has been previously mentioned that the bike may be running in "bike in neutral" fuel mapping, is this a negative factor for longevity?
I'll suggest, NO, not even a factor to think about.

Go ride your bike for 100 -100,000 miles and report back. I think that you will be perfectly satisfied with your paper-clip mod.
 

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I'll suggest, NO, not even a factor to think about.

Go ride your bike for 100 -100,000 miles and report back. I think that you will be perfectly satisfied with your paper-clip mod.
Thanks pdwestman, I've owned the bike exactly one month now and have exactly 1000 miles on it. Which was a total coincidence but yea, I'm planning on a 100k on this bike.
 
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