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I want to say this one has the exact same plug as the gen 3. I tried to remove the connector to confirm, but that sucker is on there good. I’m probably not pressing on the tab correctly.

Klr mule, This is an e ample of the type of mod your looking for to manage the o2, it sounds like someone you know should have the correct resistance figured out in a couple months from now. Best wishes
Plastic Circle Gas Rectangle Auto part
 
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Klr mule, This is an e ample of the type of mod your looking for to manage the o2, it sounds like someone you know should have the correct resistance figured out in a couple months from now. Best wishes View attachment 38118
Hey there Biggs. It took me a while to find Kawasaki Brad’s email response, but here it is below.
Apparently there needs to be “sensor variation”, or else the computer will throw a check-engine light on the new gen 3 klr.
I’m by no means electrical savvy, so I left it at that with him. I did tell him to keep me on his buy-list, and I would purchase one asap once they become available.
It doesn’t sound like Brad will be able to have a viable replacement until next year :/


It has come to my attention that some ECU's in the US received a firmware update since the initial testing phase of the O2 eliminator. This update causes the ECU to monitor the sensor and ensure there is variation within the signal whereas previously it was content with simply having the proper signal. In some cases this causes a check engine light to appear on the dash indicating an O2 fault while the O2 eliminator is plugged in. It is very common for Kawasaki to have ECU updates between testing and full product launch. However, this is the first time it has caused an issue for my eliminators/bypass plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter · #83 ·
These more modern ECU's are smarter than the older models. This is actually the case with many bikes and cars made after 2021.

As a matter of fact, this is one reason Booster Plug no longer offers their products on any bike made after '20. The ECU's will throw a fault code after a while. The software programming compares a couple of different parameters to verify accuracy. For example, if one sensor is reading a colder ambient temp, the ECU will try to verify that with another sensor. After some time and it notices consistent anomalies, which indicate a "hack", it will throw a fault code.
 

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Hey there Biggs. It took me a while to find Kawasaki Brad’s email response, but here it is below.
Apparently there needs to be “sensor variation”, or else the computer will throw a check-engine light on the new gen 3 klr.
I’m by no means electrical savvy, so I left it at that with him. I did tell him to keep me on his buy-list, and I would purchase one asap once they become available.
It doesn’t sound like Brad will be able to have a viable replacement until next year :/


It has come to my attention that some ECU's in the US received a firmware update since the initial testing phase of the O2 eliminator. This update causes the ECU to monitor the sensor and ensure there is variation within the signal whereas previously it was content with simply having the proper signal. In some cases this causes a check engine light to appear on the dash indicating an O2 fault while the O2 eliminator is plugged in. It is very common for Kawasaki to have ECU updates between testing and full product launch. However, this is the first time it has caused an issue for my eliminators/bypass plugs.
Things are definitely getting more complicated. The unit is going to require a 'semi conductor/transistor' at this point now in order to switch between multiple resistors based on operating temperature. This is surely going to drive up the cost but, it can be done. Best wishes
 

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Very good to know! I’ve been waiting for Kawi Brad’s o2 sensor delete kit to become available before purchasing the clutch bypass plug. Want to buy it all at the same time. I’ve been in contact with him, and unfortunately he won’t have the o2 delete available for at least a few more months.

Looks like the clutch bypass plug has another added benefit, thanks for sharing your findings!
I was on Ebbetts pass over the weekend, and the on/off throttle response was driving me bonkers. Hopefully this will fix that (y)
Can I ask why you would want to delete the o2 sensor?
 

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Can I ask why you would want to delete the o2 sensor?
In theory, the o2 sensor delete is supposed to slightly richen the 0-1/3 throttle mixture.

After I bypassed the clutch switch, I’m finding that my bike now has a pretty significant high altitude decel-pop that I would like to get rid of….without a tuner (if possible).
 
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2016 KLR650 Camo, Dirtracks, EM Doo,T-Bob, Giant Loop bags, rally dash, Cyclops LED, Madd Risers
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My previous 2018 klr always got an average of 48mpg. Stock carb with air screw set @ 1.75 turns. I also ran a 16T sprocket on that bike. Still regret selling that bike.

I’m averaging 53-55mpg on my gen 3, so FI is definitely accounting for the better mileage in my case. The 16T sprocket was a no-go on my gen 3, as it sucked way too much power in higher altitudes.

Having said that….a “carb’d” klr really is the way to go in my books. You can squeeze cheap & easy power out of these carbs, compared to a FI system. Your re-jetted bike will likely outrun my gen 3 hands down.
Just rode last weekend with my buddy who has a Gen 3, with the Power Commander installed. We would do “roll on” races from about 30 to 80 mph. I have a 2016 with a Yoshi and no carb mods other than air screw adjusted, and 16/43. He’s all stock except for the Power Commander, with 15/43. Every time we did this I was at least two bike lengths ahead by the time I reached 75-80 mph. He’s raced dirt/Atv/auto all his life and we’ve ridden together for almost 40 years, and it was the first time I ever out ran him. So yeah, I think you’re correct about the carb out pacing the FI. We swapped bikes for a few miles and he wished he’d bought a Gen 2🤣👍🏼
 

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That must have looked like 2 fat pigs racing. Not to mention the gen 3 is over 30lbs heavier so it's not a fair comparison. I don't think anyone buys a klr for roll on performance. 🤣
It sure was fun tho 😉
 

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Just need a paperclip and electrical tape. I'll try it.
I originally did this mod with a sturdy paperclip and electrical tape. At the time I told myself "I'll fashion a trimmed fuse to fit when I have more time so it's a more permanent mod", yea that was months ago and I'm still riding around with the paperclip and electrical tape on there. It works, so I just keep going with it. Silly how simple something can be and have such an effect on the feel of the bike.
 

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When I traded my versys to the dealer, after I closed the deal I told them about the paper clip tricking the computer into still showing which gear you're in, rpm and something else after you go way out with changing the gear ratio. He looked at me like I had two heads.
 
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