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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I'm desperate. My previously running 2004 Killer has been in semi-permanent Doohickey-replacement-process for a year. Why?

The flywheel won't come off. I've read every forum I can find, and nothing has worked.

So far...

I stripped 2 Motion Pro flywheel pullers. Then I cut the bad threads off one and attempted a third time this way, with the same result. No movement. I used the giant flywheel retaining wrench for these attempts. I used heat. I packed it with high-pressure grease.

Then I tried the harmonic balancer puller screwed into the holes in the sprag gear (I think that's the name: the gear on the back on the flywheel). The sort of triangular-shaped puller body just bent. The bolts also bent.

I tried a 2-leg gear puller: the puller bent. I replaced it with a 3-leg puller: the puller bent. The flywheel has not moved.

I called two bike shops, one of which has a working relationship with a company I work for; neither shop will touch it.

I've used heavy grease...tried a heat gun for an hour while applying pressure on every type of puller...used a torch...graduated from tapping with a rubber mallet to a hard plastic mallet to finally a hammer.

I assumed at this point I was (at the least) sacrificing the flywheel, if not every bearing and other possible complication of using a hammer on the flywheel...

Then I used an angle grinder to cut deep grooves into the heavy central hub of the flywheel, hoping to allow more expansion while heating. Repeated the pullers.

No movement.

Most recently, I cut two slots into the outer ring of the flywheel and used a heavy straight-leg, 2-arm puller. It just tore the steel of the flywheel. I've attached a photo of this current state; sorry for the poor resolution.

Still no movement of the flywheel.

I assume that some previous owner has been in there and mauled the Woodruff key or hammered on the flywheel crooked or something. It ran ok when I began this "easy" disassembly and Doohickey preventative upgrade.

So...am I selling the bike for parts? Any ideas? Please and thank you. I'm so discouraged.
 

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My only suggestion is to give Eagle Mike a call.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My only suggestion is to give Eagle Mike a call.
That's a good thought. Thanks. I'm always reluctant to dump my problem on someone else -- but I guess I posted it on the Internet for all of you...not much different, right?
 

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That's a good thought. Thanks. I'm always reluctant to dump my problem on someone else -- but I guess I posted it on the Internet for all of you...not much different, right?
I'm keen to see what the solution is, so thanks for sharing. I feel for you man, a simple job that turns into a monster!
 

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Specifically, ask Mike (@eaglemike) if he still has, and will loan, his mega-badass-open-a-can-of-whoop-ass-puller. It was extremely heavy duty and used all six of the bolts that go into the sprag clutch.

Failing that, see this:
Add hardened washers to the above solution.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Specifically, ask Mike (@eaglemike) if he still has, and will loan, his mega-badass-open-a-can-of-whoop-ass-puller. It was extremely heavy duty and used all six of the bolts that go into the sprag clutch.

Failing that, see this:
Add hardened washers to the above solution.
Hey Tom. Thanks for the suggestions. The link is one I already read. I tried the puller he used -- and bent both it and the bolts. Flywheel didn't budge.

But "mega-badass-open-a-can-of-whoop-ass-puller," now that sounds like something I need to check into...
 

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I've had good luck removing tapered brake drums from old Chrysler products by giving the jacking screw and healthy smack with a large hammer. Crank down on the jacking screw as much as you dare and while in this cranked-down state hit the jacking screw really hard with a large hammer---don't baby it.

Jason
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I've had good luck removing tapered brake drums from old Chrysler products by giving the jacking screw and healthy smack with a large hammer. Crank down on the jacking screw as much as you dare and while in this cranked-down state hit the jacking screw really hard with a large hammer---don't baby it.

Jason
This makes me feel terrible! Everyone is so helpful...and I just keep dismissing your ideas, but...

Norton, I've done the hammering trick. Here's my process with each attempt with each puller:

1) Pack tight with grease
2) Insert the puller I'm going to destroy today
3) Tighten good and tight, in the neighbourhood of 100 Ft lbs
4) Apply heat for anywhere from 30 to 60 minutes, then remove the heat gun or propane torch
5) Smack the end of the puller with a 2 pound hammer several times
6) Tighten puller using a breaker bar with a 3-foot pipe on the end as an extension; smack the puller with the hammer
7) Tighten puller even more, using an air powered impact gun; smack the puller
8) Lather, rinse, repeat, up to (I'm guessing) about 300 Ft lbs
9) Cry
 

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This makes me feel terrible! Everyone is so helpful...and I just keep dismissing your ideas, but...

Norton, I've done the hammering trick. Here's my process with each attempt with each puller:

1) Pack tight with grease
2) Insert the puller I'm going to destroy today
3) Tighten good and tight, in the neighbourhood of 100 Ft lbs
4) Apply heat for anywhere from 30 to 60 minutes, then remove the heat gun or propane torch
5) Smack the end of the puller with a 2 pound hammer several times
6) Tighten puller using a breaker bar with a 3-foot pipe on the end as an extension; smack the puller with the hammer
7) Tighten puller even more, using an air powered impact gun; smack the puller
8) Lather, rinse, repeat, up to (I'm guessing) about 300 Ft lbs
9) Cry
Sorry for your troubles.

When I say smack it hard, I mean hit it with such force that if feels like you're going to break something.

Jason
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Sorry for your troubles.

When I say smack it hard, I mean hit it with such force that if feels like you're going to break something.

Jason
Oh, yeah: I'm about to break something! :rolleyes: Like maybe break a two-by-four over the gas tank...that's about where I'm at.

But, seriously, next time I try, I'll be more forceful with the hammer. Thanks for the encouragement!
 

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I'll suggest that a large part of your problem is your SLOW Heating of the flywheel mounting hub.

I use a medium Welding tip on an oxy/acetylene torch to Quickly heat the hub, and Quickly screw in the puller, tighten and Smack it a time or two! If it doesn't come off, allow it to Cool Down with the puller still installed, overnight. Try again.

Another trick that might work. Is to use an air hammer to Vibrate the tightened puller bolt.

All of these methods may be hard on the RH ball bearing of the crankshaft.
 

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I have had success by installing the bolt that holds on the flywheel. Back the bolt off about 1/16th of a turn and while applying outward pressure on the flywheel (a friend pulling out on the flywheel) hit the head of the bolt as hard as you can with a steel hammer. What area of Canada are you in?
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
I'm sending you all a virtual round of beers in thanks! I'm located in Vancouver, BC, Canada; if you're nearby, I might just make that a real beer....

And I'm making a list of things to try:

1) Hit the tightened puller centre bolt with more force - Norton850 Jason
2) Heat the flywheel mounting hub more quickly before tightening puller and hammering (borrow an oxy/acetylene torch) - pdwestman
3) Apply an air hammer to the tightened puller centre bolt - pdwestman
4) Insert flywheel retaining bolt to 1/16th turn before tight, pull out on flywheel, hammer blow to the bolt head - Klrian

I'm going to try some of these today.
 

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If you want a really strong 'extractor', go down to the truck center and buy a 22x1.5 lug bolt and nut. Axe them if they can weld the nut onto the head. The threads are not lathe cut, they are rolled. A fair bit stronger.
 
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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
If you want a really strong 'extractor', go down to the truck center and buy a 22x1.5 lug bolt and nut. Axe them if they can weld the nut onto the head. The threads are not lathe cut, they are rolled. A fair bit stronger.
Thanks, Tom and C model (post #16) -- but I'm WAY farther down the rabbit hole than that. The threads on the flywheel mounting hub are long gone, stripped first, then finally sliced up with the angle grinder...
 

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threads on the flywheel mounting hub are long gone
I'd be looking for larger heavy duty gear puller, get that on there and latched onto the cut-outs in the old rotor-flywheel, and tighten her down good.
Then bring in the oxy-acet torch and take that nice big blue flame to the center section of the rotor.
You want to only heat up the conical section of the rotor, that's the part that remains in friction fit with the crankshaft (IMHO).
While your buddy is heating that SOB, keep tightening the puller down.

EDIT: From experience, it helps to swear like a sailor. No worries if don't have that formal training.
 

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The process I use to get tapered sprockets loose from hydraulic motors as well as stump grinder wheel hubs from gearbox shafts is as follows:

Hydraulic puller, cheapo 10 ton type. Dog it down on the hub and get it under heavy tension. Apply heat to inner hub around shift. As you heat, keep upping the pressure. Once pressure seems critical, take a heavy hammer and a chunky brass punch and hit where the hub fits to shift. Hit HAAAARD. Stand to the side as the release will normally be violent.

This works on grinder hubs that are torqued to around 550 ft/lbs from factory and haven't moved in 20 years of rust and wood chips.

In the end, it always boils down to:HEAT, BEAT, REPEAT. If it doesn't budge, heat hotter, hit harder.
 

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I have had success by installing the bolt that holds on the flywheel. Back the bolt off about 1/16th of a turn and while applying outward pressure on the flywheel (a friend pulling out on the flywheel) hit the head of the bolt as hard as you can with a steel hammer.
They may work on lawnmower engines & mopeds. But it will Not Work on a KLR650 engine that has been erroneously torqued to possibly 175ft lbs because of specs error in the Original 1987 service manual supplement!
 
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