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My foot placement for off road is off on my 2007 klr. need lower and back. Every thread I see is a couple years old. I have the gritty off road foot pegs, but am looking for a bracket to get them in the right place. Suggestions?
 

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We haven't heard from Craig in a while. His were damn good.

Tom
 

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Youknowit,
You may have to get friendly with a local welding shop, for some built to spec. custom brackets.
I'm not good at .net/.com research, either. But I'll help spur a little interest in your thread by posting 'something'.

Hopefully the next member, will be more Helpful.

Try here, http://www.knightdesignllc.com/Products/Motorcycle/Kawasaki/KLR650_11/Kawasaki_KLR650_11_Menu.html
Good idea but don't let them weld them while on the bike. May cause damage to any electronics.
 

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I sent Craig a pm to see if he is still making the nice ones he made before.
Regards....justjeff
 

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No reason that he couldn't Build them with an angled 'set-back' built in.
Lesser snag-ups!

But personally, if I felt the need for lower/back-set pegs, I would NOT want ANY under-hang!
They would require a Complete Pair of 'custom' peg brackets, sometimes it is just price be damned! Please build it my way, or tell me NO!
 

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This is what they looked like:
Stock:


Lower:


Lower and back:


Tom
 

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Tom,
Did you build both sets of those brackets, or were they Craigs work. Relatively easy to lay-out and drill.

Standing-up at 70 mph, to stretch ones legs sure would be easier. As my tank bag tends to interfere with my legs. Therefore I'll usually stand on the passenger pegs while on the highway.

For Road riders, I can see either style to work well enough.
For we Rocky Mountain 4X4 and goat trail riders the 'under-hang' would be a major draw-back.
 

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An alternative would be to cut and realign the peg 's bolt hole section to the correct position while re-welding. Someone mentioned a local welding shop...unless one is a very proficient welder it might be a nasty surprise if one broke. New Zealand is too far or you'd be most welcome to use my MIG.

Tom, why did you prefer brackets over welding?

I agree that the pegs shouldn't be welded to the frame.

At times like this I feel sorry for you guys with an inseam over 28". I never have any of these problems. ;-)
 

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Paul -

Those are Craig's brackets.

Tom
 

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Norm -

The design of the KLR foot peg bracket does not lend itself to being easily cut and re-welded. If you section the bracket to be an inch shorter you also move it inward an inch. That, and there's no way to move it backward, though I suppose you could build a bracket to move it back an inch and perhaps move them back out an inch.

All in all, using a lowering bracket is very much an easier proposition.

To the best of my knowledge, Biker Scout was the only one to ever properly address the situation, but that turned into a scandal.

 

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NICE Looking Footpeg Brackets!:)

But I've only got a size 10 boot.:(

NLA, due to $, I'll bet!
 

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It was a big scandal, lot's of people got mad. I think he simply over-committed himself and got in financially over his head with the thing. Some people got their parts, many didn't. Those who didn't also didn't get their money back.

The price wasn't unreasonable. In fact it was probably too reasonable.

Tom
 

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Welding or brazing a replacement takes a little work but it's pretty manageable.



But you may not want both brackets on at the same time.
 

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If you decide throwing more cash at the problem is a viable solution, these footpegs did the trick for me:

http://www.twistedthrottle.com/sw-motech-on-road-off-road-footpegs-kawasaki-klr650-a-e-86-09

I'm using them sans rubber footpad,
I'm using those footpegs on the lower, rearward brackets shown above. The footpegs let you lower, but they don't move the position rearward at all.

I also use them without the rubber inserts. The inserts work fine but my KLR doesn't vibrate enough to need them.

The farther you move the pegs, either down or back, the more you'll have to move the brake pedal. My shift pedal location was fine, but the brake is lowered as much as I can with stock parts. It could go a cm lower to let me "cover" the brake more comfortably when I'm not actually braking.
 
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