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96’ KLR 685
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey everyone,

just rebuilt my motor, upped to a schnitz 685.
Currently within the first easy-ride 50 miles of the break in. The first 15 miles were nice, but now the engine shudders under acceleration and the tach goes wild (falls, catches back up). I think I can hear a little bit of knock or slap? I’m brand new to this, any help or tips are appreciated.
 

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klr 650 c
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Did You put mineral oil in it? It is better for running it in. Do You use high octane gasoline? I think Tom from this forum has the same piston and he has higher compression than stock, thats why it needs higher octane fuel. Other than that could be some installation issues. Keep it under 4k revs. If it occurs again I would inspect it
 

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96’ KLR 685
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Did You put mineral oil in it? It is better for running it in. Do You use high octane gasoline? I think Tom from this forum has the same piston and he has higher compression than stock, thats why it needs higher octane fuel. Other than that could be some installation issues. Keep it under 4k revs. If it occurs again I would inspect it
Mineral oil, 93 octane. Schnitz break-in manual says No RPM limit, just take it easy. I assumed that means no heavy load/flooring it? I’ve been to 5k with light load, just rolling up to it. I’m checkin my electrical now, as my voltmeter in the gauge cluster hasn’t worked since before i first fired her up. Figure electrical has something to do with my tach goin wonky. Also the plug next to the spark plug was loose.
 

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klr 650 c
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Could be that You have electrical issues, unrelated to big bore kit, check all connections around fuel tank maybe something got loose while doing the kit, especially spark plug cable, igniton coil cables and cdi connector.
 

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96’ KLR 685
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6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Could be that You have electrical issues, unrelated to big bore kit, check all connections around fuel tank maybe something got loose while doing the kit, especially spark plug cable, igniton coil cables and cdi connector.
I found the coolant temp sending unit was very loose, i screwed up- the connected was in between the metal connector and the rubber housing, not seated entirely in the connector. Actually seems to be running perfect now. I’ve completed my first 20 mile break-in period, now I’ve changed the filter and oil again. Time for the 200 mile period.
 

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That temp sender connector would not affect 'running', rather only the temp gauge.

Check that the female spade connectors of the primary wires to the ignition coil have a 'good grip' on the ignition coil spades. They could affect running.
 
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2013 KLR 650/692, 2017 HD Electraglide Ultra
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The noise could have been something loose under the tank, so make sure everything is tight.
 

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96’ KLR 685
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6 Posts
Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I sanded the chassis ground and re-plugged the temp sending unit, not a single problem since. Runs perfectly.
 

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96’ KLR 685
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
That temp sender connector would not affect 'running', rather only the temp gauge.

Check that the female spade connectors of the primary wires to the ignition coil have a 'good grip' on the ignition coil spades. They could affect running.
Maybe since the connector was proper, it thought it was overheating and was trying to shut off? Connector wasn’t completely off, just vibrating loosely. Such a spotty connection must’ve had that effect because I didn’t change anything else. Aside from sanding the chassis ground. So both or one did the trick.
 

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The temp sender & gauge does NOT connect to the ignition system in any way to affect any 'shutoff'.

So apparently poor grounding of the main wire harness to the frame and therefore the engine and battery ground cable was your primary issue.
 
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