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In the crate, I understand the Kaw ships with the Handlebars lowered 3 inches? I don't actually understand how this is done? Are the forktubes lowered in the trees? This could be a really nice first check for newby KLR owners. just throwing it out there, for someone to explain in depth. I don't see it in the Clymer manual.

Thanx.
 

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Mine came that way from the dealer. Fork tubes extended about 3" above the top of the triple clamps. They should be flush with the top. I just had the dealer fix it at the 500 mile service (about 1 week after I got the bike). Clymer can tell you what to torque the bolts to.

Greg <><

(always lurking - rarely posting :wink: )
 

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A lot of the dealers know very little about D/S bikes and neglect to put the forks in the correct position, or they have some kid setting the bikes up and he knows nothing about them. I found one in Hazard Ky and the forks had not been set, I explained it to the young kid working there so he could get some points by telling the older mech working there.

To adjust them you need to support the bike so the front wheel is off the ground, (a lift works well for this) (or straps hanging from rafters)loosen the bolts on the lower and upper tripples, let the forks slide down to 1/8 in above the top tripple. Tighten and torque the bolts and your ready to go.

Some people raise them in the tripples if they lower the bike, mine is lowered 1 1/4 inch but the forks are in the stock position.

I hope this helps....
 

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How do you raise the forks?

Hello all

I am new to this forum and also new to Klr650's. I am retired, for 6 years now and have been involved with mech engineering for most of my career. I wanted to try this enduro riding after being cajoled into it by my son in law. The last bike I rode was a Honda CB350 in the early 70's. So other than the scooter I now have this bike is a unique experience.

I just bought it last week, ordered the lowering links from Scootworks and would like to lower the front end to match. The rear lowering went fine along with cutting and rewelding the kick stand.
Now the problem. I have loosened the attaching screws at the 4 pinch bolts assemblies on the triple (???) clamp. I have tried moving the forks up in their clamps with no success. I have tried both loading and unloading the front end and they have not budged!! What am I missing? I have called the service department and they say they occasionally have to hammer (on a board) against the clamp frame to move it. I have tried that with no success.
Any clues would be helpful. I am ready to ride, just too short.
 

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Spread your clamp points a little where they pinch.When they go they will go all at once.Make sure you follow the torgue specs for retorquing.Very easy to overtighten.When I lowered Kays,I took a large screwdriver and spread each clamp just a little and they came loose.(Ya ,I know,right tool for the job:) ).You may have to wiggle them back and forth a little to get them to come loose.


Happy Trails
:character00201:

Mike
 

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There will be 8 bolts, 4 on the upper clamp and 4 on the lower clamp, or 4 on each side. And Likw Mike says sometimes you need to pry it open a little to get them to slide. A large screwdriver works fine.
 

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Forks now adjusted

Thanks for the help.
I was able to finally get them to move. Problem was not in the clamps but in the boot. The boot was clamped to the fork cylinder itself and not to a boss on the low side of the triple clamp which is what I had supposed.
I had loosened them anyway, but that alone didn't help.
After prying each of the four clamps and not getting anywhere, I decided to just grab the fork and try twisting it. Well I was able to rotate them both?! So why didn't the move up and down? I noticed that the boot was twisted when I turned them so I tried to straighten them out. Couldn't do it!!!! Had to take a small plastic spatula like tool to peel them from the fork tube! What a job! They were firmly bonded and when the last one was finally unstuck, both forks slipped up instantly.
One for the books. Who would have thought they would have bonded so tight that full body weight on them would have moved them easily.
 

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Wow,been gone for awhile.Never heard that one before.Glad it worked out ok
 

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A buddy of mine bought a used 02 model and the forks were still in the shipping position when he showed me his new bike last fall. It was an Iowa City bike that hadn't been changed.
After riding mine (raised where it should be, and Progressive springs) he decided to leave it in this position because he liked the ride better. He's also a street rider and liked the sharper turning and more precise feel, which is why most V Strom riders raise the forks (lower the triple clamps) about 3/8"..

To each his own.. If it were me, I'd take it out of shipping position and ride it there for a bit, and then adjust to where you like it..
 

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from the dealer forks lowered?

I agree, my '08 tubes would not slip in the clamps until I loosened the boots' clamps and unstuck them from the tubes.

I have the front end down 45mm with the stock rear ride hgt.
btw, my dealer had the front ride height correct.
Talladega Cycle Sales
 
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