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Discussion Starter #1
Time to change out the chain and sprockets but I'll be damned if I can get the front nut off.

I have an impact gun but it is weak and can be stopped with my hand (you'd think Craftsman would be good). Penetrating oil hasn't helped. Massive cheater bar does nothing. Husband couldn't do it.


What do I try next???? :46:
 

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You can try applying some heat with a propane torch. Rhe technique I have found to work best for me is to put the bike on the sidestand and puti it in first gear. Stand on the right side of the bike, put your right foot on the brake and lean over the seat. This will give you plenty of leverage to work the wrench with a cheater bar. You will feel the rear suspension start to compress as you apply torque.
 

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I wouldn't recommend using heat. Man dissimilar metals and a good chance for a fire if your bike isn't squeaky clean in that area.

Impact wrench is still the best bet. Borrow one, buy a new one. Is your's air or electric?
Craftsman doesn't always equal good. Chicago Pneumatic or Makita electric.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the suggestions so far.

The impact gun is new and air, so in theory it should work fine.

Caution noted on using heat, but I think that's what I'll try next. I recall it being used before (I've never tried to do this by myself; now I know why :ashamed0001: )


As for the technique SLO KLR mentioned, that sounds good. But when you consider that I sat on the bike, right foot on the rear brake, while Dan (hubby-o-mine) pulled on the cheater bar to no avail.... I just don't see this happening.

Maybe tomorrow I'll sneak up on it and catch it by surprise! :28:


More suggestions are always welcome!
 

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HAve you got the torque on the impact set to the highest point? Some have adjustment and you may be at the low end. Also what pressure is your compressor at. Best to have over 90#. An air impact uses a lot of air so if you got one of those little pocket size compressors it ain't goin to cut it, or loosen it for that matter.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Good points. I don't recall what I had the compressor up to (and I made sure that we got one big enough to do more than what we ever plan on doing with it, including removing front sprocket nuts!)

Dan and I just discussed the air pressure/wrench settings and will give it another shot tomorrow.


This is sooo much easier when someone else does it :18:
 

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I removed mine with an impact, like KLR4evr mentions above. You need high air pressure and volume to make the most of an impact. I assume you made sure to bend the locking plate back before you tried to remove the nut?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Yep, confirming that the locking plate was bent back.



I just hope that pumping up the compressor pressure will give the impact the "umf" it needs. It's not the first time this nuts been off! :50:
 

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I had to run my compressor up to 120 psi with my Craftsman 1/2" impact wrench to get the crank bolt off for doing the doo. I'd try putting a 1/2" extension on the center of the nut or the extension and a big socket so you're hitting the nut only, not the bolt center and waking it big time with a 2 - 5 pound sledge a few times. Putting WD40 on it overnight on the backside is also a good idea. Put the bike in gear and hit it hard with the impact wrench and it should come off. I've never had a problem with countershaft sprockets even with a hand impact wrench, but rust never sleeps.

Good Luck,

John

PS: Do you put air gun oil in your wrench EVERY time you use it, it helps it spool up faster and keeps it alive.
 

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On yeah, one more things, there is a "torque" setting on my Craftsman impact gun on the bottom of the grip next to where the air hose attaches. You need to set it at the highest number as it is a torque release of some kind. Mine had numbers, 1, 2, 3, and 4, 4 being the highest torque. If you have it set to anything less than maximum torque the pressure you're giving it won't matter.

Let us know,

John
 

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I used leverage for the sprocket nut and the doo job. A 2 foot extension
increases turning torque 6 fold or something near that. Remember levers and fulcrums
from geometry class? The further from the pivot point (the nut) the easier to turn it.
(The end of the extension) Plus, I don't have an impact drive. lol Hadda improvise.

CheapButSuccessful
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yes!!!

More penetrating oil, 110 psi on the compressor, highest setting on the impact wrench (3), forward/reverse.... nothing.

What DID work was to wedge a socket in between the teeth of the sprocket and chain. The socket wedged up against the engine case and kept things from rotating (something that we couldn't do, despite standing on the rear brake, etc). We also bought an extension to give us better/straighter leverage with the wrench/cheater bar combination. AFter that it was easy!



I'll put it all together tomorrow and hopefully all goes well :character00268:
 

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Congrats, it might be ugly, but you "...got 'er done!"

Cheers,

John
 

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Discussion Starter #18
And I wish you the best of luck!

Seriously, all of the threads I searched, here and elsewhere, all talked about switching out the front sprocket for another size, but no where was there any information on getting the damn thing off! :58: Oh well, live and learn.


Now I need to look up the torque values for putting the beast back on :50:
 

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I think the torque is listed at 72# if I remember right. Really doesn't have to be that tight. I go around 50#.
 
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