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Full rebuild on Gen2 rear shock w/valve shim order pics

4345 Views 31 Replies 13 Participants Last post by  Biggs3118, 
Biggs3118
7
I'm posting here since the shock I'm using on my '02 is a Gen2 unit.

Recently, I installed a top gun 7.4 spring and fresh 10w Maxima fluid. A few months ago. Rode great, made a big difference when riding hard and/or carrying all my camping gear.

Last week, after a 'hard ride', I noticed the shock seal was leaking so I ordered up some parts, here's the run down on what was done.

I'm also including separate pics of the complete shim stack and valving in case anyone ever needs it for reference at the bottom(2nd post)
Grey Font Sleeve Office supplies Material property

I went with the 'all balls' complete seal head because it makes things quick and is made from billet aluminum(I ❤ billet). Ya, I know I'm committing an atrocity by using a 'Honda' part on the Kawasaki but it’s what is recommended and it works great. Please find it in your hearts to forgive me 😘.
Using the Tusk bullet tool:
Cosmetics Wood Writing implement Office supplies Electric blue

Makes short work of getting the seal head installed without damage
Tool Auto part Gas Cylinder Metal

Chemical compound Metal Auto part Fashion accessory Titanium

Red high strength #263 loctite(oil resistant) on the threads with a 'quad stake' for added insurance. The shaft is 'peened' over the nut from factory and must be ground down in order to disassemble and remove the seal head. I let the loctite 'cure' overnight before filling with oil. Nut torqued to 30ftlbs.
Gas Bicycle part Auto part Metal Cylinder

Shaft installed back into the shock body
Automotive tire Bicycle part Rim Household hardware Gas

All back together
Automotive lighting Automotive tire Coil spring Nickel Gas

I really like the Maxima 10w fluid for better dampening control when using a 'heavier' spring. The 'zero fade' formula is excellent when blazing trails fully loaded with gear.
"An ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure".

Look below in the 2nd post for complete valve shim stack pictures and layout.

Best wishes and remember to 'ride hard' because life is short.
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Biggs3118
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Here's the Gen2 shock valve layout pics as promised:

general layout of both stacks, top to bottom
Outerwear Textile Grey Wood Art


(TOP) Shim stack breakdown: closest to nut
Textile Sleeve Wood Grey Floor


(BOTTOM) shim stack layout: closest to seal
Sleeve Road surface Grey Floor Flooring


Keep in mind that each stack goes in a 'declining' order away from the 'valve' meaning large shims closest to the valve and progressively getting smaller towards each end until the silver colored washers at each end finish the stack. The shim stack is the thin washers that have a 'bluish' color. When stacked correctly the 'stack' of 'bluish' colored shims has a 'pyramid' shape. (Major towards valve, minor facing away at the opposite end of the stack. Once the 'stack is assembled then the silver washers go on in the order pictured.

Hope this helps someone, someday, as these types of pics are rare and hard to find online.

Best wishes as always
Any questions, please feel free to ask.
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Warrant
@Biggs3118 I love you man!
Just collecting my assortment of parts to do my Gen 2 shock, because I am 240 lbs I am going with the 8.0 Top Gun. Like the Honda bumper idea, I was trying to figure out what to do there.
Ride safe out there and once again a big thanks!
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PeteK
Don't waste your money on rebuilding and a new spring. I have ridden sections of the WABDR with the stock shock, and recently with the Cogent Moab shock. Big difference in control over crappy rough sections. If you don't plan to go offroad, then the stock shock is good enough, but if you do plan to go off road, just flatten your wallet a little now and your butt will thank you later. ;)
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Biggs3118
The parts cost including oil was (68.72$usd). That includes a new oring for the Schrader valve(not pictured) Honda P# 91307-ML7-004

Best wishes

Yes, Cogent is VERY nice but, that's 750$ plus(most KLR owners are frugal as hell). I can rebuild the factory shock over 10x for that much whilst having an 'easy' preload adjustment for varying conditions. Plus, I despise having to use spanner wrenches everytime the preload needs adjustment.

The 10w 'zero fade' oil makes a night and day difference in dampening control.
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K
No spanner wrenches required to adjust Cogent shock preload, just a steel rod.
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Biggs3118
Klrian said:
No spanner wrenches required to adjust Cogent shock preload, just a steel rod.
Click to expand...
Same difference, PITA in tight spaces but, I totally believe in 'freedom' and support anyone who wishes to use them. Best wishes
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R
Thanks for the write up and pictures. Maybe want to think about putting a Shock Wears or other type of cover on it now too. I was looking at them and other brands on Amazon just last night.
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P
Most owners don't own nitrogen tanks, hoses, gauges & adapters. What psi of nitrogen charge did you use, Biggs?
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B
Good question. Do people use nitrogen for the forks too?
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Biggs3118
pdwestman said:
Most owners don't own nitrogen tanks, hoses, gauges & adapters. What psi of nitrogen charge did you use, Biggs?
Click to expand...
140psi
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Biggs3118
banditcilik said:
Good question. Do people use nitrogen for the forks too?
Click to expand...
I wouldn't recommend adding air pressure to the forks. I use the Schrader valve on top the legs to 'let out' the air that builds up in them from riding. Try it sometime. Let the air out then go for a decent offroad ride cycling the forks and then depress the Schrader again; you'll see that air builds up and it's best to let it out. Your fork seals will thank you. Likewise, elevation changes cause pressure to change as well.
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T
Biggs3118 said:
I wouldn't recommend pressuring the forks. I use the Schrader valve on top the legs to 'let out' the air that builds up in them from riding. Try it sometime. Let the air out then go for a decent offroad ride cycling the forks and then depress the Schrader again; you'll see that air builds up and it's best to let it out. Your fork seals will thank you. Likewise, elevation changes cause pressure to change as well.
Click to expand...
Agree. The forks are already a bit of a progressive air spring as they collapse into a smaller and smaller space for the contained air. Adding air pressure to them pre-ride will just make them more variable and unpredictable as they heat up. IMHO, the correct method is to set the sag with spring preload, then regularly bleed off pressure (or relieve partial vacuum, as the situation dictates). I drilled/tapped my Gen 2 fork caps to accept Schraders for this very reason.
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D
I always used quickbleeds to drain excess air pressure from my race bikes.......Prior to installing my Cogent fork preload adjusters, I had a lengthy conversation with Todd and Rick about my concerns about losing the factory schrader valves. Rick insisted that it's a non-issue and that the pressure build up after use (due to heat) dissipates when the forks return to normal temps. Since he's the expert, I went with it and haven't had any issues. If you bleed off air when the forks are warm, be aware that as they cool, you could draw in air/dirt past the seals due to their being a negative pressure in the fork.

You don't need to worry about the fork seals as even running a bit of pressure (5 - 10 lbs for eg.) will not cause any issues - the fork seals see 10X that amount during use.


Dave
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Reveille
I've had this conversation with Jeremy at mxtech as well. They hate air bleeders with a passion and recommend against them.
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Biggs3118
Just a follow-up post here, the shock rides like a dream.... Went out for a 200mi ride today. Mixed dirt & highway. It rides so nice! Eats up the washboards without fading/packing. Rear was planted the entire time. Even with a 'bald' rear 705 I'm able to blaze 40-50mph up the dirt roads where I live. I have the 'rebound' set at 1 turn out.

Preload is set at 1, which is perfect because it leaves plenty of head room to raise it to support being fully loaded with camping/fishing gear.

Anyone not happy with their factory shock should consider a 'tune-up' like this before dropping the big $$$ on the aftermarket. It just might surprise you. Best wishes and ride hard/ride often.
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T
Does anybody find it completely unsurprising that companies that make and/or sell preload adjusters that displace or preclude caps with bleed valves say bleed valves are a bad idea while companies that make and/or sell bleed valves think they're a great idea?
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Biggs3118
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Timlang60 said:
Does anybody find it completely unsurprising that companies that make and/or sell preload adjusters that displace or preclude caps with bleed valves say bleed valves are a bad idea while companies that make and/or sell bleed valves think they're a great idea?
Click to expand...
Agreed, It's my experience that bleeding the air from the forks is absolutely necessary. I've been doing it that way since I first started riding.

The air that builds up remains even when the fork has cooled by morning. At the sand dunes back in the day riding the trusty CR500 I'd bleed the air every morning before starting the day. Each morning it would have air pressure again.

Just for fun: here's a picture of a "half ass" superman off a small dune, landing about 50feet or so down the face.
Ecoregion Rectangle Wood Slope Grey

And jumping down 'comp hill'.... too bad the camera guy cutoff my upper half but this was before we had digital cameras. Pic taken with a disposable... 🤣
Tire Wheel Motocross Wheelie Vehicle

That bike had 'full' racetech suspension setup by Piper.
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D
Timlang60 said:
Does anybody find it completely unsurprising that companies that make and/or sell preload adjusters that displace or preclude caps with bleed valves say bleed valves are a bad idea while companies that make and/or sell bleed valves think they're a great idea?
Click to expand...
Even on my race bikes, I found that bleeding air off when hot caused me to have more fork seal issues which makes sense when you think about it. I did change my proceedure so that I hit the bleeders cold before each ride/race and there was a small amount of air sometimes......of course a KLR doesn't see the same use and there are a ton of bikes made with no way of bleeding off air......I'm going to believe Rick on this one; he's one of the most knowledgeable suspension gurus I've ever spoken with. Since my KLR's are parked for the winter, maybe I'll pop the cap to see if there is any air after a whole season of riding. The biggest mistake I've seen people make is bleeding the forks when the bike is tied down thinking they are saving their fork seals.....

2 cents,
Dave
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pnp4041
Thinking of checking out Sasquatch Suspension when that time comes for me. I doubt I could do a project like that myself

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