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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
The KLR has two safety switches, one on the kick stand and one on the clutch lever.

The potential problem is that crud may get into the switches causing them to fail, leaving you trail side with a bike that won't start. To get it going again you'll need to either perform a trail side bypass or fiddle with the switches until they work again, though they may repeat their failure a mile down the trail.

After doing these bypasses, you won't have that potential problem hanging over your head. Nevermore will you live in fear of a safety switch failure.

You'll also have the potential to start the bike in gear with the side stand down and have it topple over on you, trapping you under the pig with a broken leg while you await rescue, which may not come. You'll have to gnaw your leg off to free yourself.

It will also be possible for you to ride off with your side stand down and crash at the first left turn. Again, you may have to gnaw your leg off.

You've been warned sufficiently of the dangers, so here's how to do it.

First, the clutch.

Make yourself a piece like this from a short bit of 18 gauge wire. Alternatively, you can use a mini-fuse. Flash has some photos of this done with a fuse here


Stick it, or the mini-fuse, into the connector at the clutch lever.


Tuck the connector back into the socket.


Done!

Now, the side stand switch.

First, remove all that switchy/brackety stuff from the side stand. Unplug the switch cable from the plug that is up by the solenoid.

Make yourself a gizmo like this, using .110 female connectors.


Plug the gizmo into the connector.


Tuck the connector away and secure it to the frame with a small zip-tie.



Done!

Get in the habit of starting the bike in neutral and checking the side stand position before riding off. You know, like granddad hadda do. I think he called it a kick-stand...

T
 

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Discussion Starter #4
If you make up the little gizmo and carry that and a mini-fuse in your tool kit you can have a quick and easy trail side fix should your switches ever fail. Real easy on the Gen 2.

Then you'll neither get stranded nor have to chew your leg off. However, it takes all the drama out of either situation...

T
 

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Good post, Tom. Most instructions I've looked for regarding jumping these switches are pretty vague. Your photos help a lot.

I made the little jumpers and carry them with me, but so far don't trust myself enough to go ahead and disable either one.
 

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I have done both of these mods to my KLR, and no gnawing has been necessary yet (fingers still crossed).

Back before Big Brother intervened, I had a Mazda RX7 with no safety starter lockouts...started her up one morning, but forgot to depress the clutch...darn thing nearly jumped thru the garage wall!!
 

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Great tip! I will maske those two jumpers up and put them in my tool bag!

I have done both of these mods to my KLR, and no gnawing has been necessary yet (fingers still crossed).

Back before Big Brother intervened, I had a Mazda RX7 with no safety starter lockouts...started her up one morning, but forgot to depress the clutch...darn thing nearly jumped thru the garage wall!!
My now 30 year old daughter started my 1980 Dodge Ram D50 pickup in gear once (she was 3) and drove it through my garage door (it was outside the garage at the time) and over my Yamaha SR500 street thumper. My (then) wife had left her keys in the ignition, then thought she'd left them in the house, and left my daughter in the truck with the keys in the ignition. Murphy's law was in full enforcement. :25:
 

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So, my suzuki M109r will start in gear only if the clutch is pulled in.... am I understanding that by overriding the safety switch it will start without pulling in the clutch? That's not good. When I first got the KLR last week, I stalled it in an intersection when the light turned green and almost got plowed into because I couldn' find neutral fast enough. So, that's why I want to be able to start the bime in gear.
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
These two statements seem contradictory (empahsis added):

.... am I understanding that by overriding the safety switch it will start without pulling in the clutch? That's not good....
... I couldn' find neutral fast enough. So, that's why I want to be able to start the bime in gear.
In answer to your first question, yes, if you do the clutch bypass, the starter will turn over when it is in gear. Actually, it probably won't start, it'll just lurch forward a bit. I don't think the starter has enough power to spin the engine fast enough with the transmission in gear to get the engine to
start. In order to avoid lurching about and having to gnaw your leg off, you gotta pull the clutch lever in.

If you have not done the bypass, then you either need to pull in the clutch to start it, or you need to find neutral to start it with the clutch lever out.

In either case, you need to pull the clutch lever in if the bike is in gear to successfully start it.

I sure hope I said that right...

T
 

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Tom...I have a question about the 2008 clutch bypass. I have already done the bypass as I would have on any generation KLR, it worked well. But now I need to return it to where it was for a safety inspection. The problem being is, I don't have all the original plugs and wiring left as it was my second bike at the time so I never thought much about reversing the proceedure.
I have reversed the sidestand switch easily enough, but when I am looking at the clutch wiring under the lever I am slightly confused at the moment. I have a plug or the male part of the plug that goes into the female under the clutch lever. The problem it has 3 wires coming from it???? I have looked carefully at the remaining wiring on the bike and for the life of me can't decide if this is actually the plug that works in this location. It fits so it can be made to work by rewiring it. The problem is, I can see where I joined the typical wires together that I would do on any model of KLR, but because I removed the entire switch I have had to find another which I have.......I can't remember if the 08 and up have 3 wires coming from this switch or just two? If it's just 2 I am good and can easily figure it out. But if 3 then I am scratching my head wondering where the 3rd wire is supposed to be going.
Can you shine some light onto this for me?
Thanks.....:13:
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
willys -

It's a two-conductor plug with a green/white wire and a blue wire.

Here's the best picture I could take; it's really sunny and the camera throws a shadow over the plug.



The center hole in the connector is empty.


The switch has three connectors, but the Gen 2 Sheet 1 here shows that the Starter Lockout Switch only has two active connectors.



T
 

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Thanks Tom, I knew if I didn't ask it would be the opposite of what it was supposed to be. Cheers......oh...your hands are looking kind of dirty....may I recommend the well known and reliable green elixer of products to clean them up....lol:poke::popcorn:
 

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Thanks Tom, I knew if I didn't ask it would be the opposite of what it was supposed to be. Cheers......oh...your hands are looking kind of dirty....may I recommend the well known and reliable green elixer of products to clean them up....lol:poke::popcorn:
What the heck Willys!? Now you're trying to promote Scope mouthwash as HANDCLEANER??
jj
 

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nice, thanks for bumping this thread.

this definitely looks like the most reversible back to stock fix i've found online. i'd hate to cut into the factory harness fresh out of the dealership. i'm guessing if you use the mini fuse for the clutch switch, the connector won't fit back together? i know even with the jumper it won't fully fit together but would look better and maybe offer some protection from the elements.

i foresee this mod in my very near future, awesome info guys :thumb:
 

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Hi, I have a '09 that was modified before I bought it. One issue that I am having with the bike is that I can not start it in gear with the clutch lever pulled in, on the side stand or up. I have checked the clutch switch to see if there is a jumper in there and there is not one. Does any one have any ideas how to fix this? It is a real pain trying to find N when you are also trying to hold the bike up on the side of a hill or at an intersection after I have killed it.
 

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The starter circuit relay receives a ground to start the engine, either from the neutral switch, or from the clutch safety switch (with the clutch lever pulled).

Sounds like you're denied the latter; i.e., your clutch safety switch is inoperative. You can work around this problem by defeating the switch, with a wire segment or mini-fuse, as shown on the website threads, or fix/replace your clutch safety switch.

Irrelevant anecdote follows: I recently had the OPPOSITE problem; I could start the engine with the clutch lever fully pulled, but NOT with the transmission in neutral. Incidentally, no green neutral light, either. Cause? Using an electric impact wrench to torque the countershaft sprocket nut, the severe vibrations yanked the neutral switch wire connector from the neutral switch. Thus, the only ground possible for the starter circuit relay had to come from the clutch safety switch, until the neutral switch wire was re-connected to the switch terminal.
 

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I did both of those mods on my 2004 KLR a bit more difficult than the gen2. I found it a must after I broke a clutch cable, I can now put her in 1st gear and crank up on the starter to get going if need be, not tried the theory yet but this was not an option before.
 

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I bypassed the clutch switch on my '09 three years ago and haven't regretted it (after my 1st symptom was not starting except in neutral when I was 24 miles off the rural highway and about 40 miles from any town). When I got back to town I used a paper clip bent into a squared "U" and that fit in very nicely (much like the 18 gage wire in Tom's first picture). Then put the plug back in place and taped it up with some quality electrical tape. I bought a new switch that I figure I'd install if I come to sell it someday. It's been bumped about and it sleeps in the car port where it gets some horizontal rain on occasion and I wash it a few times a year and everything has stayed put. I figure when the side stand switch craps out I can fix it pretty quickly by shorting the wires and then decide what to do with it long term.

Great forum you guys have here. Lot's of good info!

Thanks!
 
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