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I have owned a 2008, 2009, 2010, and a 2015 KLR650.....the VERY first thing I do is bypass the sidestand/clutch safety switches. It is real easy to do on the Gen 2 KLR...
especially with the tutorial provided.
 

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My bike will start in neutral kick stand down or up, will not start with clutch pulled in kick stand up not in neutral. This means clutch safety switch has gone bad? It is a 2014.5 do you think this would still be covered by the warranty? Only had 8 months 3600 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Tsropes-

You can evaluate whether or not your switches are functioning with this:

Jim Sizemore, this file may provide a wiring diagram closer to a schematic than what you're looking at now (Chapter 17):

http://www.diagramasde.com/diagramas/otros2/Kawasaki+KLR+650+(1987-2003+clymer).pdf

This is the whole Clymer manual for Generation 1s; I saw no copyright protection warnings; AFAIK this is public domain.

Anyhow, the RED/BLACK wire from the CDI must "see" a ground for the bike to run; the ground can come from several paths.

The starting circuit relay can pick up a ground from either the starter lockout ("clutch safety") switch or the neutral swith.

Switching logic prevents engine operation with the bike in gear, clutch lever out, and sidestand down.

As to the starter relay connections, the great big one connects directly to the battery positive terminal; the small connection connects to the starter circuit relay. + 12 VDC on the latter (from the starter button) engages the starter relay, connecting its contacts and powering the starter motor.

Wasn't gonna do this, but . . . here's a matrix of safety switch scenarios, a partial chart (the "how it works" column is missing), from an Internet posting long ago and far away:



Wish I had done a better job of saving the info, but--maybe this will be of some use.
 

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Made a jumper things work again will get into Kawasaki this week see if I can get a new switch. It's still under the year warranty.
 

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I grew up riding in the back of dad's truck and up in the rear window of mom's car.

In the late 70's there were no safety switches and no liability paranoia from manufacturers.
You (I) had to actually look down at the kickstand, and either clutch it or look for the
green light on the panel. Haven't pole-vaulted in a left turn yet.

I've removed every safety switch on every bike that had one or more installed from
the factory. Even frankentractor. It starts in reverse with the blades engaged. LOL

It's about removing stuff that can fail, and replacing it with paying attention.


Ride 'em if ya got 'em, the weather is a changin' up here at the Indiana/ Michigan border,
Cheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeap
 

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As a new and Novice KLRista, I want to thank all who have contributed to this thread, and to the wrenching forum in general.

I got bit by this "Problem" yesterday, on a steep gravel road negotiating a tight turn with a truck mostly in my lane, I killed the bike in second gear :(

It wouldn't start in any gear with the side stand up and clutch pulled in.

After further testing today I determined that it will start in gear, with side stand up and clutch pulled in. Don't know what I was doing wrong yesterday.

Will still bypass the clutch and side stand switches.

From the Matrix above it seems that it should have?

I'm not averse to performing the two mods, clutch bypass and side stand bypass, but is there some other problem or is this simply the way it is before you do the bypasses?
 

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Discussion Starter #27
That's pretty much the way it is.

Two choices. Disassemble all the bypass switchery and trickery, clean it, reassemble and carry on. It will break again later but you can rinse, lather, repeat.

Disable it as described so that it can be re-enabled if Bernie gets elected some day. It won't be broken ever again, but you will have to assume personal responsibility for your own safety, like if Gary gets elected someday.

Tom
 

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If you make up the little gizmo and carry that and a mini-fuse in your tool kit you can have a quick and easy trail side fix should your switches ever fail. Real easy on the Gen 2.

Then you'll neither get stranded nor have to chew your leg off. However, it takes all the drama out of either situation...

T
If we were in Piccadilly I would say, "Good Show ole chap, I say".
 

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It has been so long now since I disabled mine, that I cannot now remember from what these safeguard switches were supposed to protect us.

Gettin' old.

Sent from my XT1254 using...uh, I forget.
 

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Hello I recently stripped my clutch perch and bought a new pro taper clutch perch/lever. Can this perch still be used even though it doesn’t have the slot for the saftey switch? If I bypass it what do I do with the saftey switch? Fairly new KLR owner here looking for help.
 

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Hello Tom I have a 2018 KLR I’m trying to install a new clutch perch/lever that does not a have a place for the clutch saftey switch. How should I go about installing the pro taper clutch perch/lever? Is this possible or do I need to run a OEM perch. If I by bypass it and remove it like your photos say could I just zip tie it to the frame? I’m not a very knowledgeable mechanic, but I know a few things. Just need a little guidance.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
Install the Protaper to the bar. Do the bypass of the clutch safety switch and zip-tie the connector to the bar.

The switch is a part of the OEM lever, You needn't do anything with it once the bypass is done. Put in on the 'dead parts pile'.
 

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Discussion Starter #33
I should note that the clutch switch connector is a three-pin locking type MTW .110 Connector and the kickstand switch connector is a two-pin Sumitomo MT 090 (with no bottom rib) connector. Thes are both available from CycleTerminal.

With these mating connectors, one can make a bypass that is every bit as reversible as the above, but which is more robust. It requires some effort and the ability to crimp open-barrel terminals.
 

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Thanks Tom I really appreciate the quick reply. I plan on doing this tomorrow. Do both bypasses have to be done, or can I just do the clutch safety bypass? Would you recommend just keeping the OEM clutch perch if I ever needed to adjust the bike back to normal? Will this cause any other unforeseen issues with the bike? (other than starting while in gear) It looks like a very easy project.

I’m new to the KLR world but I’m learning.

Regards, Jared Whitehead
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Jared,

You can do just the clutch switch bypass.

Never throw anything away. That is, unless it is completely broken. It's always good to be able to put stuff back to stock. I'm not quite sure what the situation is with yours; you said 'stripped' but I'm not sure if that is in the sense of 'took it off the bike' or 'its threads are stripped so it is broken'.
 

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It’s just the perch it’s self has stripped bolts, and won’t stay tight on the handlebar. I’ve already purchased the pro taper perch and clutch lever assembly, and at the time I didn’t realize the OEM perch had that safety switch connecter. So I was stuck today in the garage, and I didn’t want to mess with it because I didn’t know what I was doing.
 

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Ok. To all those wiser than me.... Tried the jumper method on my gen2 and still no joy. Soooo, this is just a ground loop, correct? If I run a ground to tie in to the plug, it should allow it to start in gear with the clutch pulled? yes? Maybe?
 

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As I understand it, On a Gen 2 one can use a piece of wire, slightly mashed flat on the 2 ends to plug into the connector which you un-plugged from the clutch lever perch.

Then tape it over to hold together & insulate.
 

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Which doesn't seem to be working for me... :( Hence me wondering if there's a grounding issue somewhere else that's my gremlin and not the actual switch at all... 2018, with 18000km on the clock.
 
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