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Discussion Starter #41 (Edited)
...Tried the jumper method on my gen2 and still no joy...
What jumper method? The side stand switch? The clutch switch? Both?

Both switches must be activated to provide a path to ground for the starter circuit relay's coil. You should bypass them both.

If you have bypassed them both, then there is a bad ground path, either in the BL/R wire going from the relay and diode matrix to the clutch switch, the Gr/W wire going from the clutch switch to the kickstand switch, The LG wire going from the diode matrix to the neutral switch, or the Gr/Y wire going from the side stand switch to ground. Check them for continuity.
 

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Thanks Tom. I had assumed it was the clutch switch, but I understand you that they are both completing the same circuit. Since the jumper at the clutch didn't work, it must be at the Kickstand. Already did the homework and see that that's a pretty easy elimination as well....
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Do you have a Kawasaki shop manual, or access to one?
 

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Putting this as #3 on my to-do list, right after #1 getting the oil leak / smoke -on -startup solved, and #2 decalifornication.
 

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...First, the clutch...Alternatively, you can use a mini-fuse. Flash has some photos of this done with a fuse here
Stick...the mini-fuse, into the connector at the clutch lever...Tuck the connector back into the socket...Done!...T
I was curious about this mini-fuse alternative, but the photos no longer seem to be available. Is there another thread on this mini-fuse option? Was it a 5, 10, 15, 20 amp fuse (or higher)? Anybody save Flash's instructs on this method?
 

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Discussion Starter #46 (Edited)
There is no appreciable current flowing. The fuse rating does not matter; it's just a jumper. The minifuse is just a convenient way to do it rather than making the jumper.
 

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I did the mini fuse, it lasted one day, its to soft. I found a piece of tin, something in the junk stuff, and cut it to fit, and pressed it in with needle nose pliers, and all went well.
 

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I did the mini fuse, it lasted one day, its to soft. I found a piece of tin, something in the junk stuff, and cut it to fit, and pressed it in with needle nose pliers, and all went well.
I did the "capacitor castration" and so there's no need for a fuse, short wire or tin jumper.

Jason
 

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And how does one do that?
Ok, here you go:

Note: The following procedure applies to a Gen II KLR and may or may not be applicable to a Gen I.
1) Remove the fairing
2) Remove the diode pack and ground the black/red and the blue/red wires. I recommend soldering a jumper wire to these two wires and then solder a bolt-lug on the other end.
3) Next, simply bolt the lug to one of the bolts that is used to attach the fairing bracket to the frame. Put the fairing back on and then sit back and reflect on how you have increased the reliability of your KLR; you'll smile out loud at the thought!

P.S. As you will note I soldered all my wire connections, but if you do also, don't admit it to Tom, as he considers this method of connecting electrical wiring to be one level above having sex with a dead animal in the middle of the road!

Jason
 

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Discussion Starter #52
 

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And the winner is...

...I found a piece of tin, something in the junk stuff, and cut it to fit, and pressed it in with needle nose pliers, and all went well.
I took my tin snips, cut off a slim piece of metal from a roll of pipe strapping (perforated plumbers tape) and wrapped the middle of it with black electrical tape and shoved it in like lineman1234. Stuck the connector back in (not fit all the way back in), heat shrink around it.
 

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Discussion Starter #55
I think I'm going to offer a Gen 2 bypass kit where all you need to do is unplug the connector and plug a proper connector in that has a jumper in it.

I'll sell it at cost.
 

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And the winner is...



I took my tin snips, cut off a slim piece of metal from a roll of pipe strapping (perforated plumbers tape) and wrapped the middle of it with black electrical tape and shoved it in like lineman1234. Stuck the connector back in (not fit all the way back in), heat shrink around it.
Good for you.

I assume that you bypassed the clutch switch? What about the sidestand switch?

FYI, the diode castration bypasses all the "safety" switches.

Jason
 

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I think I'm going to offer a Gen 2 bypass kit where all you need to do is unplug the connector and plug a proper connector in that has a jumper in it.

I'll sell it at cost.
That got me thinking; I should offer a castration kit!

It will comprise one ground lug suitable for 14-gauge insulated wire, 10 inches of wire and three inches of resin-core solder :wink2:.

Jason
 

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And yet at 85,000+ miles & 32 years my Gen 1 clutch switch is still functional. I threw away the rusty kickstand switch Cable long ago. I can only suggest that it is the dry Wyoming climate & no salty air, that has allowed this.
 
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