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Discussion Starter #1
A bit tongue in cheek because the truly annoying part of any of these issues is forgetting that one has seen many times and should have remembered. :)


There are some aspects of servicing Gen2 which are less than ideal, I thought a thread might help to inoculate someone. I forgot, again, on the marathon (12 hour day yesterday) servicing and mods: the clip nuts which hold the fan to the radiator mounts are not properly sized to hold the mounting ears.

Remove a bolt and the clip nut might stay in place until you move the fan, then the clip nut falls down somewhere. Grrr! IME, they usually go down in front of the lower rad tank and can be retrieved by a small pick up magnet.

I use pliers to squeeze the nut's clip so that it can just be pushed onto the ear, as should have been done at the factory. This is the same on every Gen2 I've seen but wonder if others notice the same, and more important, is there something happening which causes clip nuts to open? Maybe there's something going on which relaxes the clip but don't see what would be the mechanism.

Another issue is the two small black spacer "washers" located between the upper fairing and side fairing, retained by the two vertical black screws. Remove a screw and bump the fairing and then the search begins. A dab of silicone gasket maker should hold the spacer in place, or slip a piece of thin plastic over the screw to cage the spacer.

The wiring on the left side has to be carefully placed in order that it isn't snagged into the "hockey puck" pocket on the tank.

The lower side fairing bolts go into nuts in rubber grommets. If one is turning the bolt but it's not loosening, especially if one hears the classic dry rubber squeak, reach around to hold the grommet with your fingers. Not the best design but not a big deal because it's easy enough to reach/solve. When installing the bolt, don't push too hard or the grommet will be pushed out of the hole. Again, not a big deal but annoying.

What has been forgotten...?
 

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Removing the fan is necessary when removing the cam cover for valve checks. The upper left fan mounting bolt is very difficult to get to without removing the left cowling which is also difficult. To solve this problem I cut the hole in the upper left fan mounting foot out to the end of the foot to form a "U" shaped slot and installed a longer bolt with a nut in place of the clip nut. Now I remove the two easy bolts and just loosen the upper left and slide the fan out. Since neither the nut nor the bolt is removed, they can't fall down behind the radiator.

Also, rubber cement is really nice for keeping the tank pucks and the rubber cushions on top the frame in place when reinstalling the tank. And zip ties help keep wires and cables in place along the frame.
 

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I'm glad I read this, as I will need to do a valve check in the near future. It's really nice to see all the good advice given out on this forum.
 

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Lower left is the difficult one, correct?

It's trapped by the fairing, if memory serves...which is increasingly not the case. :)
One of those left side fan feet. It doesn't matter because you have to take it of the hard way the first time to cut the slot in the foot and you will know which was the hardest to get to. That's the one.
 

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A bit tongue in cheek because the truly annoying part of any of these issues is forgetting that one has seen many times and should have remembered. :)


There are some aspects of servicing Gen2 which are less than ideal, I thought a thread might help to inoculate someone. I forgot, again, on the marathon (12 hour day yesterday) servicing and mods: the clip nuts which hold the fan to the radiator mounts are not properly sized to hold the mounting ears.

Remove a bolt and the clip nut might stay in place until you move the fan, then the clip nut falls down somewhere. Grrr! IME, they usually go down in front of the lower rad tank and can be retrieved by a small pick up magnet.

I use pliers to squeeze the nut's clip so that it can just be pushed onto the ear, as should have been done at the factory. This is the same on every Gen2 I've seen but wonder if others notice the same, and more important, is there something happening which causes clip nuts to open? Maybe there's something going on which relaxes the clip but don't see what would be the mechanism.

Another issue is the two small black spacer "washers" located between the upper fairing and side fairing, retained by the two vertical black screws. Remove a screw and bump the fairing and then the search begins. A dab of silicone gasket maker should hold the spacer in place, or slip a piece of thin plastic over the screw to cage the spacer.

The wiring on the left side has to be carefully placed in order that it isn't snagged into the "hockey puck" pocket on the tank.

The lower side fairing bolts go into nuts in rubber grommets. If one is turning the bolt but it's not loosening, especially if one hears the classic dry rubber squeak, reach around to hold the grommet with your fingers. Not the best design but not a big deal because it's easy enough to reach/solve. When installing the bolt, don't push too hard or the grommet will be pushed out of the hole. Again, not a big deal but annoying.

What has been forgotten...?
Normk,
I've been using 3M weather strip adhesive since 2007, to glue the Thick black spacers onto the side Cowling Clip Nuts.(WHY didn't the factory, 'spot weld' them ON?)

3M weather strip adhesive, to glue the radiator Screen, rubber grommets and mounting tabs into the radiator. (WHY didn't the factory, use 'push-thru and stay PUT Grommets, IN THE BACK of THE Radiator?) We might still could? Might be Just a long Enough pin? But which Grommet to use?

I've been 'gently' compressing the clip nuts on KLR radiator fans and other various bikes, for as long as I have been working with 'clip nuts'.

Hockey pucks, for as long as I've been riding, 1969. I'm sure you have also.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks, Paul. Some more items to the list. It wasn't my intention to throw stones at Kawasaki but rather to put together a list of things which might prepare someone or provide suggestions as to how to resolve. I'd forgotten about the rad grommets.

The 2014 I did the marathon of mods yesterday was the first KLR I've managed to snag the choke cable when installing the tank. It pulled the cable out of the plastic carburetor "nut" which made a bit of fun getting it snapped back into place. Getting a bit too old for these flat out, no stop 10+ hours of mods. :fiddler:

Just checking, Gomotor, I was very sure that it was the lower left fan bolt which was the problem so when you said upper was doubting myself. As you said, it doesn't matter as is obvious when in there.
 

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For ease of service when installing the rear axle I install it from the right and put the castle nut on the left. This makes it easier to get the axle started through the cluster of the swingarm, the sliding brake mounting bracket and the spacer on the right side. The left side is then easy. Just push the axle in and wiggle the wheel until it goes through the left swingarm slot. Then I use a hair pin clip through the castle nut.
 
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