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Link to instructions how to modify the OEM tap free 9a Vacuum tap conversion

both the auto shut off and manual tap are gravity fed, for clarity

Air injection delete is a good idea to make the exhaust run cooler (no longer required with MCP). Never tested it but the KLR should pass emissions with MCP.

Everything else depends on goals, expectations and budget.



Good questions Qui Gon. Hopefully MCP will illustrate us on your queries

Since I will be doing my MCP work later in the year, will use the occasion to install my recently acquired Stead cable less choke.

Also looked into other work that could be done while the carburetor of out, reason why I talk about it at this same MCP carb kit installation thread.

The fuel valve, stock vacuum operates one is efficient enough as of now but a possible source of trouble later on.

I was thinking about using a Yamaha 660 Raptor OEM petcock to replace the vacuum operates KLR's as described in "superdoo"

(what year Yamaha Raptor 660 ??)

Mechanical gravity petcock conversion

Together with this work, also following the opportunity that arose when the carburetor ends up on the surgery room as described earlier, the installation of a carburetor Overflow Pipe, in lieu of avoiding possible engine drowning in the event the mechanical petcock remained opened overflowing the carburetor and engine's cylinder.

Installation of a carb Overflow Pipe as safety valve for the gravity petcock installed.

Perhaps I can find an extra carb bottom cover so that I am perform this work ahead of time making it a breeze to work on the MCP, choke and overflow pipe as planned !

It would not be a matter of "will it happen", but "when will it happen" issue with the gravity petcock , which I want because aside from the obvious evils avoided when using the gravity petcock, I need one to periodically clean the fuel tank of any water that forms out of today's ethanol fuels, this petcock makes it a breeze to empty a fuel tank for any reason.

Anyone here did this mod ?

Here a pix of my recently acquired Stead cable less choke :

View attachment 30936
 

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If this hose goes bad, which it classically does on KLR's, you lose your top end. The rings and intake valves are worn out by dust. Proper maintenance is required before any modifications are done.

you don't gain much from mods if your compression is compromised.



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Go by the part number in the article, not the Raptor year. Just go to any OEM distributor and give them the part number. If they are like those twat waffles at O'Reilly that have to have the year, make and model before they can sell you a common crush washer you shouldn't be doing bidness with them.

Raptor Petcock 5LP-24500-01-00
 

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Discussion Starter · #24 ·
That is right

Those twatt waffle heads at O'Reilly need a photo, year make and model, a 5 page essay explaining the part in question and need 25 minutes to digest the information before telling you they can not access their files

😬
 

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Discussion Starter · #25 · (Edited)
Went to "Del Amo Cycles" Indeed a waffle head kid wanted to know year model and all about the parts in question.

It wasn't until a more experience guy, a veteran, came along and took care of the situation. Got myself a TT600 petcock, the DRZ spacer and gasket.

I had all the part numbers but the waffle head kid wanted year, make and model ...:p

The TT600 petcock does have same reserve snorkel as our stock petcock.

Together with this work and since the carb will be out for the MCP kit installation, would also like doing the overflow pipe installation on the float bowl.

Anyone in here done it ? On the article seen, I see no photo of the bottom side of the bowl. Did ... (typo, just editing, have not done this yet, meant to say drill as opposed to "did") ... the first drilling , larger bit, drill all the way to the outside / other side ?

I was thinking , there is a bolt , the drain bolt on there. Why not drill the bowl only to install the overflow pipe, and allow the drain channel to act as exit ?

At the end where the drain bolt is located, a small pipe / connector threaded on one side could be used instead of the bolt and a rubber hose attached so that any drain from the overflow pipe would not go onto the motor but behind, as older bikes used to have

Any insight appreciated !
 

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I plagiarized Doug Engie's picture to make this series of pictures entailing what that mod does, seen in cross-section.

This is crude, but it shows how the drain is configured. The CVK40 has a boss on the inside that is ready-made for drilling to accommodate an overflow pipe.
Gesture Font Map Slope Electric blue

Drill through the floor of the bowl and into the cavity.
Gesture Font Electric blue Slope Parallel

Make the counterbore for the pipe.
Font Slope Electric blue Logo Art

Install the pipe and add a drain tube (optional).
Slope Font Parallel Circle Art
 

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Discussion Starter · #27 ·
I plagiarized Doug Engie's picture to make this series of pictures entailing what that mod does, seen in cross-section.

This is crude, but it shows how the drain is configured. The CVK40 has a boss on the inside that is ready-made for drilling to accommodate an overflow pipe.
View attachment 30956
Drill through the floor of the bowl and into the cavity.
View attachment 30957
Make the counterbore for the pipe.
View attachment 30958
Install the pipe and add a drain tube (optional).
View attachment 30959
Excellent explanation Tom.

I appreciate. I have not gotten into doing the mod until later in the year, my limited memory about the carburetor bowl underside made it confusing, but upon taking the carb apart it would have been easier to visualize.

Thanks to your diligent explanation now I have full understanding.

This mod will go in, do not want to risk the possibility of ending up with a gasoline drenched engine when using the gravity petcock.

👍📝
 

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Speaking of Automatic ON vs MANUAL OFF petcocks, many Suzuki models use a vacuum operated Automatic ON petcock, with a Major Difference!
Rather than having a Manual OFF position (like the KLR's), they have a PRIME position. To manually refill an Empty carburetor float bowl, rather than having to crank the starter motor 15-20 seconds continuously to allow the vacuum diaphragm to remain open to fill the float bowl.

Their carburetors also are devoid of the Overflow stand pipe.

Guess what happens when owners leave their Suzuki petcocks in the PRIME position and the carburetor has a minor seepage past the float valve?

I just worked on a 2005 Suzuki DR200, so it is fresh in my mind. At least it's fuel tank is smaller. :)
 
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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Looking into the carb for other things I might do when installing the MCP kit.

The Pilot Screw (not pilot jet) is same as idle mixture screw apparently , two names for the same character

I see online several offers for Idle Mixture Screws that allow thumb operation as opposed to trying manipulate the hidden pilot screw

Have not seen any in reputable sources, any advise on these pilot screw replacements ?
 

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lots of places have them, including me

Eagle mike
3d cycle
MCP

might want to consider pairing with a replacement metal choke nut to make the shipping more worth while
 

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Discussion Starter · #31 ·
Hi

The metal choke nut replaces the plastic stock choke nut, am I right ?

I got the Stead engineering cable less choke, so I guess I will not be using the nut.

Or am I missing something ?
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Speaking of Automatic ON vs MANUAL OFF petcocks, many Suzuki models use a vacuum operated Automatic ON petcock, with a Major Difference!
Rather than having a Manual OFF position (like the KLR's), they have a PRIME position. To manually refill an Empty carburetor float bowl, rather than having to crank the starter motor 15-20 seconds continuously to allow the vacuum diaphragm to remain open to fill the float bowl.

Their carburetors also are devoid of the Overflow stand pipe.

Guess what happens when owners leave their Suzuki petcocks in the PRIME position and the carburetor has a minor seepage past the float valve?

I just worked on a 2005 Suzuki DR200, so it is fresh in my mind. At least it's fuel tank is smaller. :)
The TT600 looks like this ...

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👍
 

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nope not missing anything, its one or the other.

if you already said that in this thread , my apologies, not the first time caught skimming lol



Hi

The metal choke nut replaces the plastic stock choke nut, am I right ?

I got the Stead engineering cable less choke, so I guess I will not be using the nut.

Or am I missing something ?
 

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The TT600 looks like this ...
Yes, I know.
Don't forget, Key OFF, Fuel OFF, every time!

And it would be the ON fuel stand pipe and filter that would be about the same height. For about the same distance to Empty when turned to Reserve.
 
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Discussion Starter · #35 ·
nope not missing anything, its one or the other.

if you already said that in this thread , my apologies, not the first time caught skimming lol
No worries

Dang I missed the boat, could had gotten it together with MCP kit.


Yes, I know.
Don't forget, Key OFF, Fuel OFF, every time!

And it would be the ON fuel stand pipe and filter that would be about the same height. For about the same distance to Empty when turned to Reserve.
Yes, once installed, turn off bike and petcock as well

And to have peace of mind will do the overflow pipe mod as well

👍
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Got the Yamaha TT600 fuel valve/petcock , petcock seat and gasket all in.

The Yamaha TT600 petcock will use that seat in order to clear the KLR's fuel tank big metal seam that would otherwise preclude the lever from moving freely.

And the gasket.

Looking at it , the stock bolts holding the stock petcock to the fuel tank will need be longer.

Anyone has information on the size of the petcock bolts ? Should be as longer as the Yamaha petcock seat is thick.

Will look for stainless steel bolts.
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The stock bolts are 6x20. That is, they have a 6mm thread and are 20mm long. The spacer is ~12mm thick, so add 10 mm to the length. Look for a 6 X 30 cap screw down at the local hardware store. The cap screw will have a small head that will fit on the petcock's flange.

Alternatively, buy the DRZ screw https://www.partzilla.com/product/suzuki/09128-06010?ref=603c6d4598decb2c9f9218e8a8c1f6dc0798712d, they are pretty inexpensive.

There are also about 24 of the BOLT-FLANGED-SMALL,6X30 92150-1021 used on the KLR's right and left engine cases. So, if you happened to see a couple of KLRs that were left unattended and you were to... nah, you wouldn't do that.

Go to the ACE hardware store. Or come over to my place and I'll give you a couple.
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Thanks Tom

Here at Lowe's

Here at the adaptor section looking for an adaptor for the petcock (5 mm) to CBK (6 mm) hose

But nothing is in "mm"
Only 3/16, 1/8 and so forth

will go check on the bolts now
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The one on Skypark? I can't find anything there. You'd want something like 5/16" to 1/4". Not sure they'd have that.
 
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Discussion Starter · #40 ·
Here some bolts

M6- 1.00X 30 These ones could be


M6- 1.00X 20 These ones look short
 
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