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Got to do the Doo

2K views 25 replies 8 participants last post by  timberfoot 
#1 ·
Bought my 2014 KLR last month. It only had 80 original miles on it. About the only installed goodies on it were SW Motech crash bars.

After learning about the Doo-hickey and Thermo-bob I figured it would be a good idea to upgrade these sooner than later.

I began the project about 3 weeks ago. As I was removing all the plastic and gas tank I decided to check out the air cleaner and discovered a bunch of cancer. First thing I noticed was a hole melted in the bottom near the air cleaner. As I began to dig some more I began to realize the damage was much more extensive. After removing the subframe and airbox the total damage was very apparent. Check out the pics. Holes melted on both the clean and dirty sides. Definitely bad Ju Ju.

I think what happened was the previous owner loosened the muffler clamp while installing the crash bars and forgot to tighten it up. So I bought the bike and proceeded to put about 400 miles on it, all the while there was a blow torch melting the airbox whenever the engine was running.

FYI the airbox is on backorder from Kawi. The local dealership had no delivery date at all. I ended up finding a used on on ebay for $33, which is a lot cheaper than list price of $180.

While the bike was apart I installed all the goodies: Doo-hickey, Thermo-bob, JD jetting kit. Plus I built heat shields for the airbox and the coolant tank nipple area.

Going forward part of my maintenance routine will include Doo-hickey adjustment and retorque exhaust header bolts and muffler clamp at every oil change.
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#3 ·
That looks ugly. Hopefully there is not very much damage done. I am a bit terrified of burning holes in the clean air side of my air box.

I routinely check the torque of the foot peg bolts, sub frame bolts, muffler clamp bolts and header bolts.

I have never found the foot peg bolts to be loose, but others have. I have lost a sub-frame bolt, and I have found the muffler clamp bolts and header bolts to be slightly under torque more than once. I think the heating and cooling of the exhaust may cause looseness.

It is advisable to check these bolts regularly
 
#5 ·
Thanks for your advice 2ball. I don't think I really need to wrap my exhaust. I know that a lot of people do it, but I think a lot of the issues are with after market systems.

From what I've read and seen on other's bikes the main issues are melting the little inlet at the bottom of the coolant overflow bottle and the burning holes in the air box issue.

I think the overflow bottle issue is pretty much a after market exhaust thing. I've had a couple of KLRs and do daily commutes in stop start traffic with ambient temperatures sometimes exceeding 110°F and had no plastic melting issues at all.

I do the normal maintenance which includes checking fasteners, so hopefully, the muffler clamp shouldn't leak.
 
#6 ·
I've see one Gen 2 melted even Worse than that, from being left running on Full Cold Start Enrichener for WAY TOO LONG in that owners driveway in the winter time. Not even a breeze stirring.
The owner thought it would be a 'good idea' to run it awhile to stir the engine oil & charge the battery! Big OOPS!

The exhaust AIS on Gen 2's & Gen 3's creates a LOT of heat! Best to keep the bikes moving.
 
#7 ·
I've see one Gen 2 melted even Worse than that, from being left running on Full Cold Start Enrichener for WAY TOO LONG in that owners driveway in the winter time. Not even a breeze stirring.
The owner thought it would be a 'good idea' to run it awhile to stir the engine oil & charge the battery! Big OOPS!
This would explain it. It was Grandpa's bike. When Grandpa died, his Grandson stored the bike and then sold it to me.

When He told me the 7 year old bike only had 80 miles on it I asked him a couple of questions. Have you put fuel stabilizer in the tank? Have you been riding it at all, etc. He told me he would start it up and run it once every 2 weeks. He even sent me a video with it running with the choke on at 2500 rpm. Sounds like his running it may have melted the airbox.

Damn good thing I discovered it before doing any dirt riding.
 
#8 ·
You better confirm that the lower nipple on the coolant reservoir has not heat collapsed till no hole inside to let the expanded hot coolant in & back out as the engine cools down.
 
#10 ·
I recently installed a heat shield for the reservoir nipple, and inspected the bottom of my 2016’s air box, as well as the exhaust clamp under the air box. It had a thin piece of metal with what looked like 1/4” standoffs to provide an air gap. Looked like a factory thing.

@pdwestman, Did they start installing them on later models, or do you think the PO thought ahead when he installed the Yoshi muffler?
 
#12 ·
Did they start installing them on later models, or do you think the PO thought ahead when he installed the Yoshi muffler?
Scroll down about halfway through this article.
 
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#15 ·
I have a Yoshi pipe, so no cat on this pig. But it still gets HOT!
 
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#18 ·
The exhaust AIS on Gen 2's & Gen 3's creates a LOT of heat! Best to keep the bikes moving.
CAVEAT: I read this from PDWestman's post above and realised I have no idea what an AIS is. So, I did a bit of research, and realised that Australian KLRs do not have one!

It seems the presence of an AIS increases the likelihood of melted nipples and things. So, my comments about not needing exhaust wrapping and larger heat shields might be wisely ignored by North American Riders
 
#19 ·
AntonK asked, "I am curious PD - my understanding is that lean mixtures create excessive heat not rich...so how come the bike did all that melting with the choke on? "

The Exhaust AirInjectionSystem into the exhaust port from between the spark plug & ex cam area (on Gen 2 & 3 North American models only??) burns the overly rich fuel mixture in the header pipe, creating intense heat.

But even Gen 1's without AIS have been known to heat collapse the reservoir nipple closed.
Many owners have suggested that the factory may have even forgot to drill a hole thru the bottom nipple, which is possible.

So, I did a bit of research, and realised that Australian KLRs do not have one!
I'm totally surprised & you Australians are lucky, maybe!

Are the Gen 3 Australian KLR's still LearnerApprovedModels ?
If so, are they still tortoise slow & how?
 
#20 ·
AntonK asked, "I am curious PD - my understanding is that lean mixtures create excessive heat not rich...so how come the bike did all that melting with the choke on? "

The Exhaust AirInjectionSystem into the exhaust port from between the spark plug & ex cam area (on Gen 2 & 3 North American models only??) burns the overly rich fuel mixture in the header pipe, creating intense heat.

But even Gen 1's without AIS have been known to heat collapse the reservoir nipple closed.
Many owners have suggested that the factory may have even forgot to drill a hole thru the bottom nipple, which is possible.


I'm totally surprised & you Australians are lucky, maybe!

Are the Gen 3 Australian KLR's still LearnerApprovedModels ?
If so, are they still tortoise slow & how?
You said Maybe. Good call. I am only pretty sure about the no AIS, but I am pretty sure.

The 2022 does offer LAMS. Not sure if it's an option or no choice like previous models. I'll find our and let you know
 
#22 ·
I think that those Horsepower & Torque numbers are probably lower than the North American models.

I wonder if a North American ECU would simply plug-in?

It seems silly to me that Kawasaki Australia doesn't sell any Full Powered KLR models. And the last time I looked at the Australian Kawasaki web-site you guys have MORE street bike models than Kawasaki USA!

 
#23 ·
#25 ·
Yes, that is the exhaust AirInductionSystem / pollution control that at least the USA Gen 2 models used. Maybe Canadian models also? IDK. Is it used on the Australian models?

If one simply put a marble into the big hose or BB into the small hose to the head, the system would be non-functional, but a vehicle inspector would be none the wiser.
 
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