Grooved carb needle : need help for clip position

@banditcilik, you do not show the wee brass bushing in your picture. It is important that you have that brass bushing on the top of the needle. It keeps the needle from oscillating, which is not desirable. Not terminal, but certainly undesirable.

ZachM1 said:

Looks like a KLX needle. Here's the stock recommended in the picture. KLX one for clarity.

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I see. So 2nd groove from top eh? Why does the standard needle have that steep tapering?

Tom Schmitz said:

@banditcilik, you do not show the wee brass bushing in your picture. It is important that you have that brass bushing on the top of the needle. It keeps the needle from oscillating, which is not desirable. Not terminal, but certainly undesirable.

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I do have that brass bushing. It does seem wobbly to sit without the brass bushing.

banditcilik said:

I see. So 2nd groove from top eh? Why does the standard needle have that steep tapering?


I do have that brass bushing. It does seem wobbly to sit without the brass bushing.

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The steep tapering at the end throws it into a super rich AFR right at/before wide open throttle. It's lean mostly until that ledge. The gradual taper on the klx gradually richens up as you apply throttle the way it should have been from the factory.

Here's Eagle Mike showing how to install the kit. It also might help you identify if he's where your kit originally came from.


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i'll add that moving that clip just one groove makes a noticeable difference.

i'd moved mine to the top groove, hoping to increase fuel economy. what i got instead was an annoying surging / hesitation at low to part throttle.

2nd groove was recommended, for good reason...

Hey, that's my pic! 👍 try the 142 main, second clip, no shims and a 42 pilot at 1.5 turns out. You can try the stock 40 pilot at 2 turns, I don't think the 38 is enough. Make sure to pull the snorkle if it hasn't been done already.

DPelletier said:

Hey, that's my pic! try the 142 main, second clip, no shims and a 42 pilot at 1.5 turns out. You can try the stock 40 pilot at 2 turns, I don't think the 38 is enough. Make sure to pull the snorkle if it hasn't been done already.

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I thought it might be yours, but wasn't sure.

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DPelletier said:

Hey, that's my pic! 👍 try the 142 main, second clip, no shims and a 42 pilot at 1.5 turns out. You can try the stock 40 pilot at 2 turns, I don't think the 38 is enough. Make sure to pull the snorkle if it hasn't been done already.

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Are you talking about turning the pilot jet or fuel mixture screw? Kawasaki parts catalog only lists two sizes, 38 & 40. I think I'll put the needle jet at 2nd from top and use the existing 40 pilot jet for now. I am just trying to start the bike first. There are other issues with the bike, hopefully I won't need to split the crank case.

banditcilik said:

Are you talking about turning the pilot jet or fuel mixture screw? Kawasaki parts catalog only lists two sizes, 38 & 40. I think I'll put the needle jet at 2nd from top and use the existing 40 pilot jet for now. I am just trying to start the bike first. There are other issues with the bike, hopefully I won't need to split the crank case.

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Watch the video I posted. Mike shows everything you're asking.
Edit: I also wouldn't go by what Kawasaki offers since it doesn't apply to the klx needle.

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OK clip is 3rd from top groove and the engine fired up! This is first milestone. I am so pumped now!
Thanks everyone!

banditcilik said:

OK clip is 3rd from top groove and the engine fired up! This is first milestone. I am so pumped now!
Thanks everyone!

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Awesome! Congrats!

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banditcilik said:

I see. So 2nd groove from top eh? Why does the standard needle have that steep tapering?

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banditcilik said:

OK clip is 3rd from top groove

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So WHY did you put the clip on #3?
Pretty certain that you will find that to be quite rich in the mid-range throttle area for anywhere but -286ft altitude, in the winter time (Death Valley). Fuel mileage will probably be under 38 mpg. But at least it runs again.

If your at 5000ft + you might even use #1.

pdwestman said:

So WHY did you put the clip on #3?
Pretty certain that you will find that to be quite rich in the mid-range throttle area for anywhere but -286ft altitude, in the winter time (Death Valley). Fuel mileage will probably be under 38 mpg. But at least it runs again.

If your at 5000ft + you might even use #1.

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That's what Eagle Mike says in the video. At this moment I am not too concerned abut the right fuel setting, as long as it can start that is all I need. I plan to remove the airbox if that is possible in the future.
The bike is in 4 & 5 gear only so this is my priority now.

Pretty sure mike says to shim it on the 3rd clip....i would have used the second as I said before but at least you have it running

banditcilik said:

I plan to remove the airbox if that is possible in the future.

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Remove the muffler. Then just loosen the top bolts, remove the lower bolts & tilt the rear sub-frame straight up in the air to remove or replace the air box.

pdwestman said:

Remove the muffler. Then just loosen the top bolts, remove the lower bolts & tilt the rear sub-frame straight up in the air to remove or replace the air box.

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Hey guys I have just added a Eaglemike carb kit .stock kit 1 shim under clip ,second groove from top idle screw 1 and3/4 brass washer on top .I have removed the snorkel and
run a stock exhaust.I intended to remove the pea shooter end etc .But now it runs like it’s got no power do I need to change the main jet I am running the standard one ..please help

Mower man said:

Hey guys I have just added a Eaglemike carb kit .stock kit 1 shim under clip ,second groove from top idle screw 1 and3/4 brass washer on top .I have removed the snorkel and
run a stock exhaust.I intended to remove the pea shooter end etc .But now it runs like it’s got no power do I need to change the main jet I am running the standard one ..please help

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more info; what exact KH jet # are you running and why did you shim the needle if you are on the second clip position? Use a 142.5 KH main (not any other brand as they are numbered differently), put it on the second clip position with no shims under. make sure you have pulled the airbox snorkle. stock pilot with 1.75 turns on the screw should get you close but a 42 pilot works better IMO......though I also have modded the airbox with 4 - 1" holes in the top.


Dave

Mower man said:

But now it runs like it’s got no power

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If one damages the thin rubber Diaphragm or its sealing rib of the throttle slide it leaks off the vacuum created by air flowing under the throttle slide past the hole ahead of the mid-range needle.
And probably won't rev more than a 4000 rpm, the harder you try to force it to rev the worse it runs.

The non-lifting slide then becomes a choke plate, blocking further air flow into the engine.
You may need to purchase a Harley Davidson Sportster throttle slide assembly, because it is less $$ than a Kawasaki slide assembly.
In the USA, Bikers Choice Twin Power part # 482841 is a rubber diaphragm only, stretch the old one off & the new one back on.

Mower man said:

Hey guys I have just added a Eaglemike carb kit .stock kit 1 shim under clip ,second groove from top idle screw 1 and3/4 brass washer on top .I have removed the snorkel and
run a stock exhaust.I intended to remove the pea shooter end etc .But now it runs like it’s got no power do I need to change the main jet I am running the standard one ..please help

Click to expand...

Just