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Discussion Starter #1
Hi everyone,
I,m new in the forum, I tried to find some info about my problem but didnt find much that could help me out.
So I did few mods on my bike, my mistake was to do many mods at the same time, without running the bike in between the mods. (Its easier to do it all at the same time while the bike is disasemble) but end up beeing a mistake because I had to disasemble it mannny times.

I did: -Removed the snorkle
-The "L" mod in the airbox
-Fitted a ktm exaust pipe from a 525 exc (Pretty much straight)
- The "MC mod" which consists of the exaust cam advanced 1 tooth
I saw a nice difference in the bike performance but pretty sure was running lean.
After these mods I tried to shim my needle the home made way (0.060" or 2x #4washers) and I drilled the slide hole. The bike didnt run fine with this mod, no top end power.

I decided to buy a Dynojet Kit so I would be easier to adjust but apparently it is not the case. They suggest 140 jet with 3rd groove position on needle for stage 1. Or 150 jet with 4th groove position on needle for stage 2. I tried many mix and the best so far is 140 jet with 1st groove on the needle but still the bike performance havent improve much and when I keep a steady throttle, (example on highway) its hesitating.

Any suggestion?? I am thinking of putting the carb to stock position today to see how it works out, and then try one change at a time. Or try to put the stock exaust first to see how it works?

Thanks alot for your time!!
 

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I don't normally use the term "hesitating" with "steady throttle". I wonder it you may have meant surging, hunting or searching. With the hole in the slide drilled larger the diaphragm and spring controlling the slide position are more sensitive to small pressure changes in the venturi which might cause a slight hunting or surging.

When you have the carb apart again, check to make sure you don't have small pin hole in or misalignment of the diaphragm. This could cause loss of top end power.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
I don't normally use the term "hesitating" with "steady throttle". I wonder it you may have meant surging, hunting or searching. With the hole in the slide drilled larger the diaphragm and spring controlling the slide position are more sensitive to small pressure changes in the venturi which might cause a slight hunting or surging.

When you have the carb apart again, check to make sure you don't have small pin hole in or misalignment of the diaphragm. This could cause loss of top end power.

Sorry for my english, my terms might not be perfect due to the fact that i am originally a french speaker. I am trying different things right now, moving the clip one groove lower makes the problem even worse. So I would say i am too rich, but If I keep going more lean, I'll go back to stock setting.. Which ends up with no upgrade.. Dont really know where to head up now. I just disasembled the carb again and everything was in its right spot
 

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Yeah, English is my first language and I have trouble with it.
It seems to me that if a leaner setting of the needle makes the bike run better with all the other modifications, then that is what you should go with.
 

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When you have the carb apart again, check to make sure you don't have small pin hole in or misalignment of the diaphragm. This could cause loss of top end power.
I agree. Check your diaphragm. You may have damaged it in the process.
 

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I agree. Check your diaphragm. You may have damaged it in the process.
Or perhaps . . . not sealed the diaphragm perimeter correctly upon reassembly.

A diaphragm air leak typically produces fuel-lean combustion, because . . . the slide and needle cannot rise as fully as designed, and thus cannot uncover the main jet as planned.

Don't think a diaphragm air leak is the problem, however . . . just, bad karma on the main jet and needle profile. Your bike, but . . . I think I'd look next at stock carb tuning, maybe leave the vacuum port drilling and go with one needle washer.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks guys for your replies!

I putted my carb back to stock and the bike is running fine but obviously, according to the spark plug it seems a bit lean. + It is not as performant as it was with the dynojet installed but I<ve never been able to make it run good on highway or steady throttle with the kit installed... Dont really know what else to try with the kit.. I<ll try to change only the main jet for a bigger one to get more fuel when full throttle.

Any idea is welcome!
 

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How do you know your engine is running lean?

A "throttle-chop plug reading" once indicated air/fuel ratio AT WOT ONLY. Bike was run at wide-open throttle, throttle chopped and engine killed immediately, then the plug(s) was (were) read.

Plug color only indicates mixture at last moment of engine operation; looking at a plug after idling tells of mixture at idle only.

Raising the needle by the width of one # 4 washer fuel-enriches the mid-range of a stock carburetor on a stock engine adequately to "make it through the night," IMHO. Trick jet kits have their limitations, IMHO.

A riding partner (60,000 miles on a 685ed '08) had an experience similar to yours; "jetted" carb, then returned to stock configuration; still running happily for most of those 60,000 miles (except when he modified his carb).
 

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Hi
I have a Dyno jet kit on my '10 and I remember something about fake dynojet kit on the market, it could sound like u got one of them, because your setting are not like the ones in the instruction there came with my kit, for stage 1 clip in groove #2 and if you run aftermarket exhaust you will use the DJ 142 mainjet.
For stage 2 clip in groove #3 and with aftermarket exhaust use DJ 155, but I don't know if that is different for '04
My bike runs very strong, I run stage 1, have a Two Brothers m7 exhaust on, twin air filter but stock air box, mixture screw is out 3 turns.
I can't remember where I read the thing about fake kits, as fare as I remember it said something about that there where no size different in the jets so your bike might not run very well if it would run at all.
Just something to look in to.

Troels
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Aight, thanks for the info

But first we dont have the same carb because you have a gen. 2 Klr and they changed the carn in 2008 I believe so the settings might be different. I really dont thing I got a "fake kit" , I mean everything is there and the jets are properly identify and I checked the sizes of the jets with some drill bits. And the bike was running stronger with the kit installed, but just cant get it run perfectly without hesitation at steady Idle... Keep looking for my trouble. And it cant be the diaphragm neither because its running perfect with stock configuration
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yeah I understand what you mean, and its hard to get good readings because I want to know my misture at different condition (full throttle, steady throttle on highway, etc) to make sure I dont run the engine too hot. When I check my plug I go for a regular ride with some full throttle passes and shut it without running on idle. I guess it gives me a good idea of the average mixture, but I can be wrong. I tried first ,before buying the dynojet kit, to installed a 0.030" washer under the needle and if my memory is good it wasnt running too good but i'll try again this setup because I tried so manny settings that I'm not even sure hoe it was running. It is just frustrating to buy the proper kit and its running like shit. I am pretty sure there is a way to make the kit work so I get the best performance with the bike running good.
Thanks for your help!

How do you know your engine is running lean?

A "throttle-chop plug reading" once indicated air/fuel ratio AT WOT ONLY. Bike was run at wide-open throttle, throttle chopped and engine killed immediately, then the plug(s) was (were) read.

Plug color only indicates mixture at last moment of engine operation; looking at a plug after idling tells of mixture at idle only.

Raising the needle by the width of one # 4 washer fuel-enriches the mid-range of a stock carburetor on a stock engine adequately to "make it through the night," IMHO. Trick jet kits have their limitations, IMHO.

A riding partner (60,000 miles on a 685ed '08) had an experience similar to yours; "jetted" carb, then returned to stock configuration; still running happily for most of those 60,000 miles (except when he modified his carb).
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Okay, yesterday I try to change only the main jet with the rest of the carb to stock settings. I putted a 150 jet instead of the stock 148 jet. The difference is almost nothing and shouldnt really affect the mixture but my problem reappeared with this setup. Around 4000-5000 rpm, when I release a bit the throttle, or keep steady throttle, the engine hesitate.

I compared the stock jet with the dynojet jet physically. The dyno jet one is way longer than the stock one. (Sorry I am not able to post picture due to photobucket not working on my phone). Can than affect my mixture?? I wonder if because its lower in the bowl, it would suck more fuel than the stock and this might affect the mixture?
Please help! Thanks!

p.s. I called dynojet yesterday and the guy told me to inspect the guide when the needle passes through for roundness of the hole in the tube but I did and everything seems okay

Thanks!!
 

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I have had great results on my 2004 KLR with Eagle Mike's KLX needle kit. The needle is more tapered than the stock needle and the instructions are top notch. Mike actually recommends (and supplies) a smaller main jet with the needle kit.
 

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I compared the stock jet with the dynojet jet physically. The dyno jet one is way longer than the stock one. (Sorry I am not able to post picture due to photobucket not working on my phone). Can than affect my mixture??
Orifice diameter appears key; jet length of negligible consequence at flow rates involved, IMHO.

"Perfect" can be the enemy of "Good enough," when it comes to carb tuning/jetting, IMHO.

Full disclosure: 22-cent mod, one # 4 washer; happy!
 

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Discussion Starter #15
yeah I,m really thinking of only doing the washer mod, its just frustrating to buy a 60$ kit to avoid having to try 100 of different setting but I think I tried everything I can with this freaking Dynojet kit to make it work but looks like its not working for my bike..
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Be sure the hole in the slide is not bigger than 7/64 as a larger hole can cause the slide to hunt up and down at a steady twist grip setting.[/quote]

I first drilled with 7/64 but then redrilled 1/8" with the drill bit they provided in thr Dynojet kit. The instructions says to drill with the drill bit #30 which is 1/8" ...???
 

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Be sure the hole in the slide is not bigger than 7/64 as a larger hole can cause the slide to hunt up and down at a steady twist grip setting.
I first drilled with 7/64 but then redrilled 1/8" with the drill bit they provided in thr Dynojet kit. The instructions says to drill with the drill bit #30 which is 1/8" ...???[/QUOTE]

A number 30 drill is 0.1285, 0.0085 bigger than a 1/8 inch drill and 0.0191 bigger than a 7/64 drill. Considering that drills tend to cut oversize a little the hole in you slide may be over 0.020 bigger than 7/64.
 

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Exactly what i fould by searching a bit, So is the #30 drilling okay or should it be 7/64" ??
I'm thinking the #30 drill is too big and may be causing the hesitation you mentioned in your first post.

"when I keep a steady throttle, (example on highway) its hesitating."
 
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