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Discussion Starter #1
Hello All -

Backstory: I've got a 2009 KLR. Had the battery replaced after it wouldn't start. Two weeks later, same thing and dealer said it was the relay. It's been running fine until...

Low beam went out on me first. Within 24 hrs the high beam went out. Blinkers and rear running light work fine.

Took the front fairings off to replace bulbs. First thing I noticed is that the rubber covers (technical name?) that keep out rain, mud, etc. are not there. I bought this bike in September 2018.

Put in the new bulbs and...nothing. Had to put down the tools and get to work. Here now. I plan to check the fuse tonight. I read all of the other threads regarding headlights, here in the forum, that I could find. I saw that if you accidentally leave the switch in between high and low, you can blow the fuse.

Correct me if I'm wrong but based upon the wiring diagram I believe the headlights + both the tail light/license plate light are on that 10a fuse. So if it's blown they should be dead (which they are not). Is that correct?

I know that this bike is fraught with potential rubbing/shorting spots due to the crappy layout Kawasaki did with the harness. I figure I'm going to have to pull the gas tank and all to try to find them.

While I have done a bunch of research, I've only been working on motorcycles since I bought the KLR, so I'm a complete newb. Any advice would be much appreciated.

Also, does anyone know where I can buy those rubber covers that protect the lights/connectors from rain/mud?

Thanks!

- Judd
 

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The COVER-SEAL, HEAD LAMP is $12/ea plus S&H from Partzilla https://www.partzilla.com/product/kawasaki/49016-0043?ref=58b9d3edf2f2340800e2c3c60d93098cc97e24bd

e-bay might be an option.

Now, the electrical issue. Here is the headlight schematic:


A couple of things you said concern me.

The low beam went and then the high beam sometime later. That is not a fuse issue.

The fuse should be a 15A fuse, but that can wait if it is not blown (which may be the cause of the high beam not working).

This is a fairly simple circuit to trace out and find out what is not working, though some disassembly and unplugging of connectors will be required.

Start with fixing the low beam, because that is supposed to be on all the time. You should have power at the low beam connector at the red wire. Since your covers are MIA you should also look for corrosion in the connector which might be preventing the low beam from operating. Since you have taillights and had the high-beam after the low beam went away, I'd suspect corrosion in the low beam connector or a severed red wire at the crimp junction that sends a red wire off to the high beam switch (which is a rather unlikely event).

Same with the high beam, but you should also check the high-beam switch for a malfunction.
 

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The "accidentally leave the switch in between high and low, you can blow the fuse"; this is a Gen 1 issue. The Gen 2 switch has a low and a high position, but the low is just a label; the red wire doesn't go anywhere from that position. When the switch is moved to the high position it connects the red wire to the red/black wire, powering the high beam. The low beam is always on.

On a Gen 1 the switch serves to turn the low beam off and the high beam on. It is possible to have the switch momentarily powering both beams, which is too much current of the fuse and it blows. The solution is to increase the value of the fuse or, as Dr. Switzer would say, "Stop it!".
 
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Lights

If it is corrosion, clean like mentioned above, but make sure you apply some dielectric grease to terminals. Don't get any on glass of the bulbs. Don't touch glass of bulbs.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Alright. Got the headlight assembly off. Doesn't seem to be any corrosion. The voltimeter reads 0.9volts out of both the high beam and low beam sockets. This means I have a short somewhere yes? Going to pull the seat to check the fuse and then the gas tank to start looking for shorts.
 

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A short would have burned the fuse and the volt meter would read '0' volts. And the tail light/license light would also be Out.

Are you sure your meter is turned to the proper scale? Touch the meter leads together, does the meter give a reading?

You may be on ohms scale?

How are you connecting the meter?

Both key Off & key On?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Success!! A confusing success though (which is always discomforting). Fuse was blown. But the rear tail light worked just fine that entire time. ???? Put in a new fuse and both low and high beam working perfectly now.

Question: the fuse box has three slots and one of them is empty. Is that odd? Pics below.

As a bonus I switched out the instrument panel bulbs for green led's while I was in there.
 

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I think the lid of the fuse case suggests that 3rd spot is for a spare. So this is probably not the 1st time this has happened! So possibly won't be the last.

I hope you inspected the wires between the seam of gas tank & the coolant reservoir bracket. The bracket gets bent in tip-overs and jams the wires against the tank, causes short circuit.
 
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