Help a newbie (doesn't start without choke)

278 Views 14 Replies 7 Participants Last post by PeteK, 4 d ago

vovalos

Discussion Starter · 8 d ago

Hey guys,
Total newbie on this forum, to KLR & motorcycles in general.
I have a friend's 2008 KLR that he's letting me ride for a while. It refuses to start without choke even in warm weather. Once started, it works just fine, idles without choke as well. Last summer it started without problems. It did however winter outside (in Canada) with me intermittently riding it.
It has new fully charged battery(2023). Fresh synthetic oil change (summer 2022, but few km), clean air filter (cleaned 2023).

Since it's not mine, I don't really know the bike's history. Any suggestions what it could be? What I could check? I looked over the forum, and in similar questions the bike didn't idle... mine does, it just doesn't start.

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Six8five

· #2 · 8 d ago

If it starts without choke it’s probably too rich at idle.
This one s normal, go ride, worry less!

Reactions: 2

vovalos

Discussion Starter · #3 · 8 d ago

Six8five said:
If it starts without choke it’s probably too rich at idle.
This one s normal, go ride, worry less!

Thanks. It did start without choke last summer... and it's not my bike, so I thought smth went wrong and wanted to fix before returning it to my buddy...

Timlang60

· #4 · 7 d ago

To be clear - it requires the choke to start even when it's warm outside (totally normal), or it requires the choke to start even when the engine is warm (not normal)? Even if its 105° outside, that's far below normal engine operating temps, and for the first start of the day or any time it's sat for long enough to cool closer to ambient air temps - lunch, shopping stop, Starbucks if you're on a BMW - the engine will normally require a much richer air/fuel ratio to fire up.

vovalos

Discussion Starter · #5 · 7 d ago

Timlang60 said:
To be clear - it requires the choke to start even when it's warm outside (totally normal), or it requires the choke to start even when the engine is warm (not normal)? Even if its 105° outside, that's far below normal engine operating temps, and for the first start of the day or any time it's sat for long enough to cool closer to ambient air temps - lunch, shopping stop, Starbucks if you're on a BMW - the engine will normally require a much richer air/fuel ratio to fire up.

I didn't realize that the bike needing choke in warm weather is normal. I thought smth went wrong because when I got the bike last year it started without.

Once warm it'll restart without choke. Even after short stops.

Reactions: 1

Timlang60

· #6 · 7 d ago

vovalos said:
Once warm it'll restart without choke. Even after short stops.

Totally normal. Nothing to worry about, no reason to not go ride. Stay safe.

Reactions: 1

line6distortion

· #7 · 7 d ago

On my A16 it needs choke to start until totally heat soaked. probably 15 mins of running down the road. if it is totally heat soaked it will start without any choke until it cools off, - say 45 minutes or more give or take. L6

pdwestman

· #8 · 6 d ago

I will ask if its totally up to running temp, does it idle at 1200-1400 rpm? Too low of idle speed will affect both cold and warm start-up.
But it is totally normal for the KLR to need full enrichener up to 80-100 F ambient air temps, for the first start of the day. It just doesn't need it very long at those temps.

pnp4041

· #9 · 6 d ago

I have a similar situation. Started better last year than this year, but this year I have a new JD jet kit and swapped the mixture screw, so I just choke it to start it. I can release the lever in just a couple of seconds, so no inconvenience.

vovalos

Discussion Starter · #10 · 5 d ago

pdwestman said:
I will ask if its totally up to running temp, does it idle at 1200-1400 rpm? Too low of idle speed will affect both cold and warm start-up.
But it is totally normal for the KLR to need full enrichener up to 80-100 F ambient air temps, for the first start of the day. It just doesn't need it very long at those temps.

My idle is at 1000, is that too low? If it is, is there an easy way to adjust it?

pnp4041

· #11 · 5 d ago

vovalos said:
My idle is at 1000, is that too low? If it is, is there an easy way to adjust it?

yes and yes IMO

line6distortion

· #12 · 4 d ago

vovalos said:
My idle is at 1000, is that too low? If it is, is there an easy way to adjust it?

with the Gen3 efi, I am not sure if the little barrel nut adjuster for the throttle still exists on Gen3. Gen 1 and 2 have the barrel nut adjuster on the right side of the carb where the throttle cable comes in. while idling, one simply reaches down on the right side and gives it a turn and it gives an obvious change to idling RPM up or down. Someone with a Gen 3 can comment on the efi version. I have had sleds with efi, and you just let the computer handle it. L6

Timlang60

· #13 · 4 d ago

vovalos said:
My idle is at 1000, is that too low? If it is, is there an easy way to adjust it?

If the bike accelerates from idle without any stumbles, you're fine. 1k RPMs is a bit slower than they typically like, but if it works, nothing is broke and there's nothing to fix. If you'd like it a bit higher (12k - 14k is more typical), the basic procedure is to simply adjust the large thumb screw on the right side of the carb (circled in red).

This serves to simply prop the throttle open a little bit, increasing idle speed. Technically, the correct proceedure would be a combination of adjusting the idle speed screw (red) and the pilot mixture screw (green circle), but unless the bike doesn't run well after bumping up the idle speed, I'd call it close enough and leave the pilot screw adjustments for another day, when you have more experience, and a shop manual. Incidentally, if you want to do your buddy a favor in return for the use of his bike, buy a Clymer's shop manual for it. (Here's a used one for $25.) It'll help you out while you have the bike, and be of value to your buddy when it all goes back.

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vovalos

Discussion Starter · #14 · 4 d ago

Timlang60 said:
If the bike accelerates from idle without any stumbles, you're fine. 1k RPMs is a bit slower than they typically like, but if it works, nothing is broke and there's nothing to fix. If you'd like it a bit higher (12k - 14k is more typical), the basic procedure is to simply adjust the large thumb screw on the right side of the carb (circled in red).

I watched a few videos on the topic yesterday. It accelerates fine, but based on everything I've read/watched, tweaking it to 1200 would be better. Thanks for the explanation, I thought I had to adjust the pilot screw and it seems impossible without taking the carb out... I'll try the red screw, my carb looks exactly like the one in your picture.
I have the shop manual, but I find watching youtube videos a lot more informative especially for procedures, especially if you don't know what's what and need a step by step.

Reactions: 1

PeteK

· #15 · 4 d ago

Watch the videos posted and linked in this forum. There's a lot of crap on the internet, but that's a redundant statement. Also, anything that Eagle Mike produces is excellent. TimLang recommended getting a Clymer manual for your buddy, which is an excellent suggestion.

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