Kawasaki KLR Forum banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Rebuilt Carb on Gen 1 after petcock filter fell off in tank and bike stopped running. I figure something got in somewhere and just needs to be cleaned out. Petcock is indeed converted to non-vacuum, as is carb.

Rebuilt carb (valves adjusted too), started RIGHT UP and ran around the block before she started leaking fuel on the floor (and from the over-flow line) and would not restart. If I come back tomorrow, she might start, might not.

I'm clueless on trouble-shooting. I've rebuilt this carb once before with ZERO issues so I'm disinclined to think I missed something on the rebuild, HOWEVER...

I'll pull the carb AGAIN and check the rebuild including ensuring every little hole is cleaned with wire AND air AND carb cleaner.

I was thinking to replace the floats as a possible culprit (2003)???
I was thinking to replace the Vacuum Slide as a culprit (rubber dam)???

Is there ANYTHING else you guys'd be doing/considering before pulling that stupid carb?

Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
374 Posts
Well it sounds like your float is perhaps mis-adjusted, hanging up or the needle/seat is damaged.

You mentioned disassembling the carburetor again and if you do so, inspect the rubber tip of the float needle for damage. Also inspect the seat for damage, but I doubt you will find any.

If the needle and seat look OK check the float height. To do this tilt the carburetor body such that the tab on the float just touches the tiny needle pin of the float valve. At this position the float should be 0.625" (5/8") from the the mating surface of the carburetor body to bowl interface. If it's within 0.063" (1/16") in either direction you're OK. If not, gently bend the tab on the float to obtain the correct distance.

Once the carb is assembled, installed and the fuel turned on, check the fuel level in the carburetor. To do this attached a clear length of tubing to the nipple on the bottom of the float bowl and hold it up along the side of the carburetor body. Loosen the carburetor drain plug and observe the fuel level in the clear tubing. The level should be even with the seam between the carburetor body and the float bowl interface. Note that this test needs to be performed with the carburetor/bike vertical. The tolerance for this test is a hair over 1/32" above or below the seam.

Keep us apprised of your progress or lack thereof.

Jason
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
98 Posts
Float valve is sticking. Common occurence after sitting too long with the crappy fuel we have. If it were my bike, I'd pull the carb, tear it down, ultrasonic it. Then push carb cleaner through every orifice. Make sure before you put the float bowl on that the float valve is working. Easy to do. Attach the fuel line to the carb, gently blow through the fuel line while moving the float from open to closed. I have rarely found that float levels need to be redone, unless someone was "ham-fisted" when rebuilding the carb.

Last, but most importantly, when you store your bike for anytime exceeding a couple of weeks, put some of your favorite fuel stabilizer in it, (Seafoam) shut the fuel valve off and run the bike until it dies. Yes, it will make it a bit harder to start if you still have a vacuum petcock..but, better than a fooked up carb.

You can't believe the amount of money I have made from people that don't store their bikes properly now that the gas is so bad....
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,542 Posts
Leaking float valve-and/or-seat comes to mind. Some polish the float valve seat with Q-tips and metal polish; if the tip of the float valve has hardened (instead of remaining "rubbery"), should be replaced.

Can't think of how a gravity-fed KLR carb would leak fuel with a functioning (and properly adjusted) float valve; anyone know? (I consider punctured and fuel-filled floats in the, "non-functioning" department).

Checked out the, "Carb Overhaul" videos posted on this website? Saving you some research: https://www.klrforum.com/how-tos-tech-guides/19026-carb-overhaul.html
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,645 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Rebuilding Carb (AGAIN! and soon since I'm still painting/re-assembling my Gen2).

Had checked Float Level on 1st/2nd rebuild (along with utilizing a new carb rebuild kit), but was not as clear on some other helpful minutiae discovered here in this Post and will make application of those tips...
THX!
'Had watched those vids before... helped me on my Doo, too!

Heard about motor/oil contamination, don't think I'm there as oil looks/smells good, but that's what I hope as that sounds real-NOT-good!

First time 'it' happened, I was making a U-Turn, and she just cut out cold.
She turned over strong but would not restart.
Then, I noticed about 5 ounces of fuel on the ground under the bike.
Trucked her home after work and put her up on blocks.

Rebuilt carb AGAIN and created same DANG issue on test ride around the block...
Bike cut out,
got her in garage and again,
fuel puddle on ground under bike and no start-ienze!!!!
Next morning, starts RIGHT UP noooo problem but I don't trust her none!!!

If it's that pesky lil float valve I'm-o be upset bc on re-install of rebuilt carb (TWICE NOW), she gives me that cutout-overflow-no restart thing!!! But each rebuild I've replaced/measured the float valve with theirs in the kit.

SO!
Soaking Carb Body in Kerosene,
Blowing her out with Carb Cleaner (clearing out any/all circuit holes again),
Rebuilding Carb with another 'New' Rebuild Kit,
Checking Float level and valve,
Replacing Floats (WTH, she is an '03),
Doing 'Fuel bowl test' upon re-assemble,
and of course getting filterscreen back on petcock (remember, knocked her off on install of petcock before... may have allowed micro-things into my fuel system),
even though I don't know 'zackly what I'm doing or why.
I might have to watch 'That Guy's' video that explains how a Carb works...

I'll keep you posted boysNgirls...

THX FOR THE INPUT!!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
Same here!

I am using the Souperdoo carb video now, and it is an excellent video. Highly recommended. Full of details and nice and slow, so that I could rebuild mine as he did his![/QUOTE]

I did the saaaaaame thing...
brought my laptop out to patio and worked on my exploded diagram Gen 1 Doo having watched it once and then FF it when I need specific help.

As an aside, I tried to screw it all up but couldn't (discovered MY problem to be nothing to do with the Doo)... easier job than I tried to make it out to be!!!

I like that guy's videos; he's brought me lotsa SOLID edumacation on AllThingsKLR...
grateful here, too!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Just (still) trying to find the time to tackle this (too many Projects)... update soon?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
I think I got it!

I replaced the Float just for kicks (really brown, from an '03 with 25K though not full of fuel).

I also did the other stuff mentioned above, which shoooooulda been the same as I did last re-install, but who knows. Did I pinch something, or 'wedge' it such that something couldn't move freely??? I didn't change out the 'new' valve float again as I double-checked against the OEM one that it was the right size. Everything else inside was new, too, so I don't know who the culprit was.

I will say that when this problem showed up originally it was intermittently cutting off and not restarting while leaking fuel outta the overflow hose. That's why I say I "THINK" I got it. I'll do a coupla shake-down rides on a day that it don't matter none if she strands me. Then I'll put her on CraigsList/OfferUp... I don't want her to show this issue when I'm with my Buyer, RIGHT!!!!

Thanks for the input fellas. I hate putting on and taking off and putting on and taking off and yes, putting BACK ON!!!! It drives me nuts that I'm not a Mechanic even if I do play one on TV... but I'm getting it, bit by bit, piece by piece.

Thanks again for the input; for now she's all good. I'll post her 'For Sale' here, too, mostly so I can show off all the (little) KLRForum.com things I done did for her!!!

THX!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
ShakeDownCruise yesterday to be able to pronounce the Gen 1 'sale-able' and I discover the battery is kaput. I got to fuel 0.5mi. from home and she won't restart. I walk home, get my Truck, come back, jump start her.
Since it's a 1/2 day at work, I decide to commit to the shake-down cruise anyway.
One stop, so I'll leave her running, do the errand and then head back home.

Well, I'm getting ready to sell her so of course I THINK I hear every sound imaginable from the recently done-by-me chain/sprockets, valves, doo, and oil screen clean (along with numerous and significant adds to the bike over the last coupla years) but alas... she's fiiiiiine YO!

I got her home, went to work, came home, tried to start her and got the fast clicks.
Ordered new battery this morning and hope to put her in next week and

THEN


SHE



WILL



BE



COMPLETE.







SHEESH!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,645 Posts
I would have 'ran along side that GEN 1 as fast as I could push her', UP-shifted into 2nd gear as I jumped onto the seat & dropped the clutch. And rode her home. The Gen 1 bikes RUN off of the stator, no battery required. :)

I've even push started my Ford Ranger on flat ground, at a gas station, to drive to an auto parts store near closing time to purchase & install an alternator belt! Coasted down their driveway to restart & backed-up into parking area to have them test charging system. All good, drove home 250 miles after sun-down.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
AAAAWWWWWW COME ON...


RRREEEAAALLLLLLLLYYYYY?!?!?!?

Of course I tried to bump start her and she would not go, not even a little bit (tried like 4 or 5x). I had read some articles about this bike running without a battery which is the only reason I gave her four or five tries because it was already 100°.

For right now I'm assuming Battery and I sure hope I'm right because I won't have a clue if it's anything else.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,645 Posts
AAAAWWWWWW COME ON...


RRREEEAAALLLLLLLLYYYYY?!?!?!?

Of course I tried to bump start her and she would not go, not even a little bit (tried like 4 or 5x). I had read some articles about this bike running without a battery which is the only reason I gave her four or five tries because it was already 100°.

For right now I'm assuming Battery and I sure hope I'm right because I won't have a clue if it's anything else.
Your picture is of a GEN 2, which is 'battery dependant'. But your "friends" might have been able to push you fast Enough to run off of the alternator, :)

If your battery had a 'smidgeon' of life left in it? ;)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Pic's Gen2 which is my current project.

GEN1, my first KLR that looked like a POS day I bought her taught me everything I need to know about all-things-KLR! Well that, and very specifically THIS Forum...
MANY thanks again!
Went out to the garage to turn the key on the way to the other bike (to work on) and didn't even get a click when I turned the key; she's a TOTAL goner (due, but also effectively stored for last year and only one charge-up during).
New battery next week and update as well. I sure hope it's this simple because I sure thought she'da bump-schtarted TOO!!!

Curious the diff in G1 v G2 on the Batt dependence though?
Can I successfully bump a G1 w/ dead(er) batt?
No batt?
G2 deader batt?
G2 no batt?

HOW DO YOU GUYS KNOW ALL THIS SCHTUFF MMAAAAANNN????
not jealous
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
6,645 Posts
A Gen 1 can be bump started even with NO battery, but the fan doesn't work too well at low speeds.

I've read that you have to push a Gen 2 a whole lot faster. Preferably down a steep hill.
A Gen 2 needs a sort of useable, properly Connected battery in-system, preferably with 9 -10 volts to more readily power the ignition when bump starting. Loose connections cause erratic running or even a no-start. And some failed batteries can have poor Internal Connections!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5,542 Posts
+ 1 ^.

Why? Generation 1 ignition is powered by stator exciter coils (AC) ONLY; Generation 2 ignition is powered by 12 VDC from the battery and/or charging circuitry.

"Dat's da name o' dat tune!"

:)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
232 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
All done and she's for sale starting this Sat. the Gen.1.

Finally found time to install new batt (even though they sent it with the Pos/Neg post schwapped) and she's running like a top! Commuting on her a coupla days to ensure zero issues before a Buyer test-rides (and there are NONE).

Ad breaks this Sat. for Sun showings...
hmmmmmmmmm...

where to price,
where, where, wheeeeeeerrrrrrre...

hmmmmmm...

'03 Gen. 1,
23K mi.,
modest to medium adds,
most of KLRForum.com work completed already,
new paint,
alotta other new shite,
very, VERY clean,
a strong runner and TIGHT YO!!!

Can I hurdle a $3K SP???
We'll see... and I'm confident I can and pretty easily.

This is likely about as close to TomSchmidt as I'll ever get because I have an 'old man's motorcycle cared for by an old man that doesn't ever want to be found on the side of the of the road with his dead bike' and she looks/runs like THAT motorcycle... one a Buyer'd say to his/herself, "DDDDDAAAAAAAAMMMMMNNNNN that's a TIGHT bike bruh; I'll TAKE IT!!!"


I'm due oooooooooone more visit to this Thread to Post the final sales price... and I will!
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top