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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have been riding on the 16 tooth and have the original 15, so I want to try and see how it goes, I went down some very steep slopes and had to use too much brake, started sliding, engine stalled and the rest I'm sure you know :lol: :lol:

I have a 2004 model and the CD's I got with the bike show how to do it on a 600 model with the two small bolts and the oval washer :x

I have flattened out the cup washer, but my shifter (crescent wrench) can't get that a good grip. I saw on BigCee that a 27mm socket is requried - can someone please confirm.

And also what is the trick to using a breaker bar and not spinning the wheel. I read elsewhere of someone using a pice of 4 x 2 and wanted to check if this is OK or will I bend some spokes.

Finally, I take it normal spinning thread and not a left hand one?

Many thanks in advance

Cheers Alex
 

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I have not changed mine, so I am not sure what size socket it is. If you have a Harbor Freight near you go get there 3/4 metric socket set, about $40, and you'll have everything you need. I WOULD NOT put a 2x4 through the wheel, I would try to have it in 1st gear AND have someone pushing down on the break to get it loose. You maybe could jam a 2x4 between the tire and the swingarm also. I would also get the Eagle Mike prevailing counter shaft nut so you don't have to mess with the washer in the future. Not sure if it is a normal thread or reverse. Hope this helped some...Doug
 

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27mm, normal thread. Takes a bit of a grunt to break the nut loose, but then it will spin off easily.

Yes, you need to have the bike in first gear, rear brake applied fully, and the chain has to be on as well.

If you don't have any help available, here's what worked for me

1. 1/2" drive ratchet handle with breaker bar slipped over it - get this settled nicely on the nut.
2. Use a broomstick or the like to push down on the rear brake pedal while pulling up on the breaker bar to break loose the nut.

When you hear a snap, you can stop pulling on the ratchet - that was the sound of the nut breaking loose, and you should almost be able to just spin it off by hand now - I could with mine.

Reverse procedure when tightening the nut back down with your torque wrench set to on the proper spec.
 

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Drive sprocket nut on your model should be torqued to 72 ft/lbs. DON'T stick a 2x4 or anything else in your wheel to prevent movement!!! Have the bike in gear and simply apply the brake as needed.
 

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So othe Eagle Mike prevailing nut eliminates the need for a washer of ANY kind ?
Thanks in advance.
 

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I sit on the bike with my foot on the rear brake and pull up on the ratchet to break the nut loose. I tighten it back up the same way. Pretty easy.

Daniel
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
firemedicntx said:
I sit on the bike with my foot on the rear brake and pull up on the ratchet to break the nut loose. I tighten it back up the same way. Pretty easy.

Daniel
Yeah that's what I did

Bought a 150lb torque wrench about 18" long (so no breaker bar needed) and worked fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
nooner818 said:
CRITTER said:
So othe Eagle Mike prevailing nut eliminates the need for a washer of ANY kind ?
Thanks in advance.
Yep, no washer needed.
Add one of those to the shopping list - although I did just use a fresh side of the cup washer :oops:
 

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I kinda have a question about this... I've got the Prevailing Torque Nut and I noticed it was larger than the stock nut. I don't know what mm it is. But anyway, what are you guys using trail side to change your sprokets? Are you seriously taking along a breaker bar and a fatty socket? Is there another, lighter to pack method of doing a quick chagne in the field?
 

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stock is 27mm

Eagle nut is 30mm

shoot, I carry fattys and a 3/4 drive ratchet
and then some :wink:
 

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When changing to an aftermarket sprocket, dont assume the stamp for the number of teeth face outward. Got my 16 T from Fred and found that to keep the teeth on the same plane as stock, the side with the stamp needed to face inward :wink:
 
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