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Discussion Starter #1
Very sorry to beat this topic into the ground but I’ve spent days looking online and can’t find the info. Tried emailing Eagle Mike through his website but it didn’t work. I need the original instructions that came with the Eagle Mike KLX needle kit. I‘m cleaning the carb and did enough mods that the settings will need to be changed from what they were.
Unless someone here can tell me the settings I need for...

Year 2000, Stock engine, removed snorkel, L-mod, UNI filter, FMF Powerbomb header, Lexx muffler, 450ft above sea level.
It seems like every video and post leaves something out. Enough So that I’m stuck until I get the full picture.
 

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EM is very busy most of the time and therefore, does not get to his e-mail much. He would much rather people call him on the number listed on his website.

He's a great guy.
 

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Using aftermarket muffler – 142 main, clip in middle/3rd groove from top. 1 thin shim under the eclip,
brass collar always on top of the eclip. If stock pilot jet, 2.5 turns out from lightly seated. Much better to
use the 42 pilot jet (on the site) 2 turns from lightly seated. Snorkel removed. Some holes people put
holes in the airbox. If you do, also install the little push in filters. Dirt through the carb will kill the rings
pretty quick.


I use the 142 at the second clip with no shims under but either is close. I concur that the 42 pilot is better. ......and while I have great respect for Mike and his knowledge, I will disagree on the little push in filters; they do absolutely nothing useful and cause restriction and increased maintenance - I strongly recommend avoiding them. The main filter is the only filtration you need and the additional filters are redundant and undo most of the increased airflow you got from drilling the holes in the first place. Dirt is indeed horrible for the engine, but it can't get past the main filter unless you have a problem.....and if you do, those little filters won't help you.

Dave
 

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Year 2000, Stock engine, removed snorkel, L-mod, UNI filter, FMF Powerbomb header, Lexx muffler, 450ft above sea level.
My setup is functionally identical; 2000, stock engine, 4-1" holes, Uni filter, Gen2 header and Lexx muffler.....1129ft above sea level (though the CVK is largely self adjusting for altitude), regularly run up to 8,000 ft.

142 KH main, second clip, no shims, 42 pilot at 2 turns out.


Dave
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Let me be clear that It’s not that Eagle Mike didn‘t respond, just the website wasn’t working at the time. Thanks for the advice guys. Can’t wait to get it going this weekend.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I got my 42 pilot jet today. Ready to install tomorrow. The directions say to back it out 2 turns from lightly seated. But it doesn’t have a spring. Is this correct? I don’t know what holds it in position.
 

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I got my 42 pilot jet today. Ready to install tomorrow. The directions say to back it out 2 turns from lightly seated. But it doesn’t have a spring. Is this correct? I don’t know what holds it in position.
The #42 pilot JET inside the float bowl needs to be snug, so it can't vibrate out.

The EXTERNAL low speed Mixture screw (directly ahead of the float bowl) may still have the shiny Aluminum EPA tamper-resistant CAP on its tower (which needs to be removed). 1/8" drill bit / holding carb sideways if drilling by hand (We don't want to turn the screw with the drill bit, as this would imbed the tapered tip in the most forward tiny hole in the carb throat). The aluminum cap is about 1/8" thick. Your EM KLX jet kit probably came with a metal screw? Screw it into the drilled aluminum cap & pull the cap with a CW twist with common pliers.

Now, using screwdriver count the turns lightly into '0'. And then look at/feel the tip of the mixture screw in the carb throat. Then turn the screw open 2 full turns. Check the tip of the mixture screw again, is it recessed back into the carb? Good.

You really should read the High-Lited LINK in this link! "Care And Feeding Of The CVK40"

And then watch the videos.
 

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I got my 42 pilot jet today. Ready to install tomorrow. The directions say to back it out 2 turns from lightly seated. But it doesn’t have a spring. Is this correct? I don’t know what holds it in position.
Remove the #38 jet. Replace it with the #42 jet and firmly seat it. There is no spring associated with the jet.

As Paul said, remove the needle anti-tamper if it is present and proceed from there. Go to the link Paul provided and read and watch.

You might also find this useful, from 2:40...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks guys. I watched the vids and see what you mean. Here’s the part in the Eagle Mike directions that confused me...
27504
 

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It never ceases to amaze me that so many instructions are written in gibberish. It's not that hard to find someone who went to the Wally Thor School Of Technical Writing and pay them $20 to give something the once-over. So much clarity can be added simply by observing the convention that a proper sentence has a subject, verb, and object (in that order). Punctuation is a good thing, too. After all, "Let's eat Grandma!" may not properly convey one's meaning.

Oh, carp, I'm ranting again. Well, it's Saturday and cartoons are over. Not much else to do.
 

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My setup is functionally identical; 2000, stock engine, 4-1" holes, Uni filter, Gen2 header and Lexx muffler.....1129ft above sea level (though the CVK is largely self adjusting for altitude), regularly run up to 8,000 ft.

142 KH main, second clip, no shims, 42 pilot at 2 turns out.


Dave
Gamonman,
Re-Read Dave Pelletiers posting, then follow it. Whoops! Even Dave used short-hand!
 
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Re proper punctuation: The correct use of he apostrophe makes the difference between, "knowing your shit," and "knowing you're shit." ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Ok so I got the carb all put back together and adjusted only to notice this when I thought I was done...

That orifice just above the needle looks to be clogged. I assume it’s a passageway? I can barely see in there. I tried poking a needle and it just bent the tip. Wanted to ask you guys to make sure there’s even a hole in there, and if you have any advice.

27522
 

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As I do not have a KLR650 carburetor setting on my work bench currently, I can not say for certain.

The air jet to the Right in the picture is the Pilot Air Jet, the service manual spec is a #80 (#70 if Gen 2) .

The service manual for both Gen 1 & Gen 2 says that the Main Air Jet (the Center one) spec is a #50. So that does suggest that your suspicions are correct, as in its plugged with something.

But lets not get in too big of hurry and go poking & prodding until we get a little more complete input, as some other Kawasaki model carbs do not have a Main Air Jet. I just cant say for certain.

You can take the time to re-review Tom Schmitz / Souperdoo carburetor videos and see if Tom ever pokes a tiny wire thru that center air jet.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
As I do not have a KLR650 carburetor setting on my work bench currently, I can not say for certain.

The air jet to the Right in the picture is the Pilot Air Jet, the service manual spec is a #80 (#70 if Gen 2) .

The service manual for both Gen 1 & Gen 2 says that the Main Air Jet (the Center one) spec is a #50. So that does suggest that your suspicions are correct, as in its plugged with something.

But lets not get in too big of hurry and go poking & prodding until we get a little more complete input, as some other Kawasaki model carbs do not have a Main Air Jet. I just cant say for certain.

You can take the time to re-review Tom Schmitz / Souperdoo carburetor videos and see if Tom ever pokes a tiny wire thru that center air jet.
So I found a drill bit that matched the diameter of the orifice on the right, and stuck it in the one on the left. I spun it counterclockwise so not to cut into anything I wasn’t supposed to. I spun it with my fingers for quite some time (10 mins plus) without evidence to know if I was doing the right thing. Finally it broke through and the hole was revealed. So I scrubbed it out with a carb cleaning tool I just got in the mail. I don’t have the energy to take it all apart again to get the crud out that I just created with the drill bit. The carb is already back on the bike and I want to get this thing inspected and legal before winter!

My KLR is a Y2K model with only 4K miles on it. It has sat in the garage since 2015 with gas in it! (Live and learn). I got the tank off and it’s full of rust. I added a fuel filter. The plan was to clean out the stock tank with Muriatic acid and then seal it. I took the petcock out and the tubes disintegrated in my hand. So between the rust and petcock needing to be replaced I was able to talk the wife into letting me buy a plastic tank. Still not sure this is how I want to go but it‘d be nice to forget about rust. The gas cap has issues too.

What do you guys think about the IMS 6.6 gallon tank? Manual petcock? Sea foam? - I bought a can of that stuff and planned to run it through the carb to get anything I may have missed. Sorry for all the newbie questions. I’m no mechanic. I replaced the clutch on an 82 Honda 20 years ago, and did the Doohickey To this bike. That’s all I got. If it wasn’t for the vids you guys shared this would be impossible.

A little backstory... I bought in 2015 for $2,500 bucks at a dealer who just got it as a trade-in. I bought it covered in mud. It ran great at the time. I don’t think they knew what they had and settled for a quick flip. He told me on the phone it had 40k miles on it but when I got there it was only 4k. Then suddenly I had kids and the dream ended.
Over the years I’ve Farkled when I had money but still didn’t ride it. Exhaust, header, air filter, KLX needle etc. So here I am years later trying to resurrect the dream. Carb was a disaster. Tank is full of black sludge. Petcock fell apart in my hand. Gas cap looked tired and cruddy. Tires seem OK. Not sure about chain. Haven’t checked valves Nor do I know how to. Forks are leaking. Brakes seem OK. Some type of oil leak but oil levels are still good. Let’s just say advice is welcome.
 

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I love the IMS6.6 and I use it with a manual petcock (yamaha raptor sourced from Eaglemike); no rust, no dents, no paint scratches, more capacity OR the ability to carry the stock amount of fuel at a lower CG. AND on top of all that you get some rad protection without adding 12 - 15lbs worth of crashbars. I add a JNS rad guard for additional peace of mind. The problematic gas cap vent seals are a thing of the past with the IMS as an added bonus. All you have to do is make sure you turn off that manual petcock when you turn off the engine.
 

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I have the IMS 6.6 as well and agree with all that @DPelletier says.

Mine is the black one because it is cool looking and sexy and Darth Vadery. I recommend the translucent one because it is practical. It heats the gas less in bright sunlight on a warm day and you can see how much gas you have.
 

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I'm wondering how much the carburation might be affected by potentially enlarging the Main Air Jet?
 

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I took a couple of carbs and had a look at the main air jet. I have partially disassembled one carb so that I could shine a light down the main jet port to illuminate the main air jet.
27528


The main air jet measured .020" (.50mm). The slow air jet, to the left, is .028" (.71mm).

For comparison purposes, I made the same measurements on a Vulcan CVK40. The MAJ was .039" (1.0mm) and the SAJ was .037" (.94mm).

@pdwestman, would you happen to have the dimensions for air jets?
 
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