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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
EDITED WITH ANSWERS 3/25/202, 2:16p 'Zona

Okay, I've read a few recommendations here and can't relocate them regarding my Valve Shims.

First, agreed Spec Valve Clearances on my 2003 Gen. 1 with 23K miles should be:
Exhaust (front)
0.15 - 0.25mm
Intake (rear)
0.10 - 0.20mm

Measurements I got yesterday:

Exhaust L - 0.13mm
Current Shim - 2.60
New Shim - 2.50
New Clearance - 0.23mm

Exhaust R - 0.15mm
Current Shim - 2.60
New Shim - 2.50 or 2.55???
New Clearance - 0.25mm ORRRR 0.20mm

Intake L - 0.05mm
Current Shim - 2.60
New Shim - 2.45 or 2.50???
New Clearance - 0.20mm ORRRR 0.15mm

Intake R - 0.10mm
Current Shim - 2.60
New Shim - 2.50 or 2.55???
New Clearance - 0.20mm ORRRR 0.15mm

What I seem to remember on this Forum was a mention that the clearance can be increased but no more than OEM-suggested Max...
0.25mm in the case of Exhaust and
0.20mm in the case of Intake.

ANSWER -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I did it by hand (aka: YouTube) but this is much more TRICK…
A Valve Adjustment Calculator in a simple-to-record-your-results format… noice!

CLOSE ANSWER ------------------------------------------------------------------------------


That said, should I choose the larger or smaller shim(s) in the case of Shims 2, 3, & 4 above (Shim 1 clearances makes it an easy choice)??? All Valves should then clear as OEM Spec Maximum of the range and no more (I'll be sure to measure again just before replacing the head).

ANSWER -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
You should shoot for the maximum specified clearance, so use the smaller shim.
ROGER THAT!

CLOSE ANSWER ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Am I on the right path here?

And are these things INDEED $13 EACH at the Dealer??? Doesn't appear to be available on RockyMtnATV. Does anyone have other better ideas (eB was hit or miss and Amazon didn't help)? Looks like what I’ll need is:
Shims
2.45 – 1
2.50 – 2-4
2.55 – 1-2

ANSWER -------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Rocky Mountain ATV has stock and they are available via mailorder for $6.38 each. The 2.45 shim is their Part# 1289860010.
Martin
GENIUS…
saved me 50% of of REASONABLE prices YO!!!

CLOSE ANSWER ------------------------------------------------------------------------------

And those ValveCover Bolt O-Rings are $7 each... ya'll think I can just take one into AceHardware and find a suitable replacement?

I won’t drive across town to save a coupla bucks but if it’s significant…


Thanks!
 

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You should shoot for the maximum specified clearance, so use the smaller shim.

MaxBMW sells shims for about $8. If you have a BMW motorcycle dealership nearby (RideNow Powersports, Chandler) you might give them a shot, looking for K75/K100 shims. You might also check at the Ford dealer to see if they have Taurus shims in stock and what the price might be. That's a long shot, as people are not really into restoring and keeping up Taurii. Decent Kawasaki dealerships (now few and far between) will often keep some on-hand to exchange for a modest price. Do not get sucked into buying a shim kit. You might as well piss into a cash register, as it runs into money. You'll never use 90% of the shims in the kit.

I am ashamed to admit that I have used faucet valve stem washers on the valve cover. If I recall correctly, I found them at ACE Hardware and paid less than 50 cents apiece for them. They worked until I had enough need for stuff to place an order with Partzilla. I still have some in my parts bin.
 

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My 1978 XS750 and 1981 XS1100 used the same shim as my KLR650 and 1985 K100RT
The first bike to use them was the 1973 Kawasaki Z1 900.
I have had an assortment of them in my toolbox for forty-five years and never seem to have the ones I need.
 

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also, BMW's use the same shims. I bought an assortment from Eaglemike 'cause I like to have stuff. .....on the valve cover seals, just buy the OEM ones

Dave
 

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Another thought.

If you plan on keeping the bike for another 20K miles or more, figure out what your next shims are going to be and order them at the same time. That will save you days next time.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Great thoughts fellas... and LOVE the Shim Calculator! Went to Eagle Mike's for MUCH better pricing on Shims and he's closed until... I guess he's high(er) risk after a 2018 Cancer bout so I'm on to the next option. I'll check for cross-referenced Shims via BMW, etc as suggested. For a coupla bucks extra each I might just hit my local Kaw Dealer and end all this madness 'trying to find parts'.

This Gen 1'll get sold after I finish the Valve Adjustment and put her back together, so no need for more Shims in this case. I marvel at you guys who have "Shims" in your Tool Boxes... I wouldn't even know what it was!!! WHO HAS BACK UP SHIMS BESIDES THE RACER... I think that's DPelletier, right???

After the Valve Adjusment I can work on my Gen2 AFTER I GET A FRONT BLACK RIM to put her back together!

Thanks fellas; ALWAYS appreciate the input!
 

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Rocky Mountain ATV has stock and they are available via mailorder for $6.38 each. The 2.45 shim is their Part# 1289860010.

Martin
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Rocky Mountain ATV has stock and they are available via mailorder for $6.38 each. The 2.45 shim is their Part# 1289860010.
Martin
SWEET!!!
AND WITH A PART NO. EVEN!!!
The other ones IIIII located on RMtnATV were $13.67 each... NICE FIND!!!
ORDERED EXTRAS EVEN [read that on occasion 'The Math' doesn't add up on re-gauging of cams after re-install (more likely GIGOut) in case I need to go one 'larger'].
And NOOOWW I KNOW THE SECRET to how you guys have EXTRA SHIMS in your TOOOLLLBOOXXXEEESSSS!!!

One (KLRer-recommended) guy wanted $44 for 4 Shims along with $18 S&H (Sure, Priority... but I don't want/need Priority)... SHEESH!
THEY'RE SHIMSSSSSSSa!!!

Thanks CHRider!!!


This started as a chase of a 'sudden cut out, no re-start w/ fuel on the floor from the overflow better get an f'n Uber' issue. Then it turned into an exploded diagram again...
Also replacing (non-vacuum) petcock as a likely contributor since (likely on my prior install) the filter was knocked off the current petcock and might've allowed a piece of debris to get lodged where it shouldn't be... IDK.
Doing a few other small things since I'm under the hood, you know, with all this (mandated) "FreeTime" and all... finally getting some stuff done!
Carb rebuild [can't hurt none, did the "F the 22c Mod" again, love it (was on there before)].
A little clean up of the 'lower dash' I added a lil while back (4 On/Offs, Car/USB Charging Sockets),
Crafted extension to Stead Enricher (you had to dig to get at it before!!!),
test-riding the heck out of her and then
selling her.

Then back to work on the Gen2 ('still need that Black Front Wheel). Even though a Red-Decal-Removed 2009 I'm going to TruckBedLiner her too, with, get this, TINTABLE TBL!!! Yep, White and Pink even! Schtumbled on the product(s) and I'M ALL IN! 'Might have to rent a larger compressor than the HF small one I have, but other 'n that, should be pretty straight-forward (despite a bit o' extra work prepping the plastic, which I didn't really have to do on the Gen1 with the RattleCan TBL). The Kits (U-Pol Raptor among MANY other HIGHLY-RATED manufacturers) are relatively cheap, are 'roll-able', tintable (any tint'll do) and often include the spray gun...
DUH!

'Course I'm the guy who rattle-canned his Rims thinking he's all that and...
CHIPS AHOY!!! on the first Rim (accidental) drop on concrete on the way to have the new skins installed. Yeh, disappointing to say the least. Shod her (Gen1) with Aluminums instead (recovered nicely with smoking deal on OU.... $100 for the pair!!!).
I digress...


Thanks again YO!
 

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You should shoot for the maximum specified clearance, so use the smaller shim.
Good advice. If anyone is wondering why, it's because as the valves wear the clearance decreases. If the valves wear enough without re-shimming, they will actually stay open and not fully close. This is, obviously, not supposed to happen. So, by aiming for the maximum end of the clearance range, you're maximizing the time between this maintenance action.
 
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