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Discussion Starter #21
Thanks, im mostly on road and or gravel and fire roads. Ill practice when I need a new tire. The tube should be in today, ill be first inline at the tire shop tomorrow. I need the triple A for when I travel and am not near a friend I can call to get me.
I have only had the KLR for 6,300 new miles, and had to get rescued once because of something I did while installing the paniers.
 

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Discussion Starter #22
YAAAAYYYYY.... Got tire mounted last night ( at tire shop), going to install it right after coffee, and back on the road. Not to much, Trail riding hear where I am at in Rockport TX, but lots of nice roads to explore. The bike is so much more fun to explore with than the truck with the windows down.
The paniers, and the cheep and dirty, black milk crate on the back rack, is perfect to go to the grocery store.
The one thing I notice being close to the salt water, is the chain don't like it. It rusts on the side, and it needs to constantly be lubed.
 

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Awesome. It’s great to be back on the road isn’t it?

As for the chain, I haven’t tried it yet, but I bought some Motol chain paste to try. Thought it might stick better. No mess. And not let too much dirt stick to it.

Just out of curiosity, what did it cost to mount your tire? Last one I did was about $50 to mount and balance and I supplied everything for it. Main reason I figured I’d start doing it myself.
 

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Discussion Starter #24
I have had it mounted 2 times now, as mentioned, this is my 3rd tube. I had it done in MN this past summer, $15, and 2 times hear, because I pinched the tube again. Its $10, each time, hear in Rockport TX. In Fritch TX I had my 2,500 truck tire taken off and plugged for $10, that was great. $20, to fix a chip in the windshield.
For the tire, I had it all ready to go, New tube in, one side rubber on, other side, (didn't touch this time) I have the valve stem fishing tool, WHAT A NUCKLE SAVER!!!
Call and ask around, lots of machanics with the mounting machine that will do it at home for some cash. I find I don't need it balanced, yet, $50 seems a bit high, but I would have paid it, as I didn't have a choice. Till I/if I, learn to mount myself.
The chain, someone gave me chain wax, and it don't do anything for the salty air. I think the salt likes it.
 

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The chain, someone gave me chain wax, and it don't do anything for the salty air. I think the salt likes it.

Well I hope the paste is different from the wax then. Won’t know until I try it out.

$15 to mount a tire is much more reasonable. The shops I called all quoted similar prices. Hence the idea to buy my own stand as it’ll pay for itself pretty quick.
 

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Discussion Starter #26
I NEED TO UPDATE THE STORY.
Checked air in tire I had mounted yesterday, NO air, added air and sprayed with soapy water, lots of bubbles. Took one side off again and pulled brand new tube out. They put 2 holes in new tube about 5 inches apart. Thank goodness I ordered 2 tubes for one as a spare.
SO, I put air in other new tube and tested for leaks, none.
put new second tube in and commenced to very, slowly and feeling before putting tire iron in, feeling for tube, and being very slow, and ginger, got the darn thing on.
Going for a ride.
Going to try my hand at patching the 2 tubes I have. ha ha ......
Thanks all for the help and inspiration.
 

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...The one thing I notice being close to the salt water, is the chain don't like it. It rusts on the side, and it needs to constantly be lubed.
@lineman1234

You might consider carrying a small can of WD-40 to spray on the chain.

I live at the beach and have no issues with rust on the chain and the only thing I put on the chain is WD-40. I put it on at the end of each day's ride, spraying it liberally onto the chain and giving it a quick wipe with a rag if I happen to have one.

I just replaced my sprockets and chain as a result of a gearing change. The sprockets and chain were on for 13,083 miles. I measured the chain lengths over a span of 77 links and found that the chain had worn 0.13%. That is, it was supposed to measure 48 1/8" and it measured 48 3/16". That's not as long a test of WD-40 as watt-man has done, but that ain't much wear.
 

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lineman1234,
The secrets to successful inner tube patching are to 'Scruff' the tube with scratcher or 100 grit sand paper until a slightly over-sized area is BLACK bare rubber and then let a very Thin coating of the vulcanizing cement DRY before adhering the patch.

Tom,
Do I remember correctly that chain companies say 1.5% - 2.0% increase of length of a drive chain is considered "Worn-Out"? So your chain was less than 10% of the allowable increase.
So I'm wondering just how many usable used drive chains you have in the Shed of Horrors? :)
 

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Just the one. I had a 520 non-oring chain laying around but just tossed it last week as I figured I'd never use it. It was in fine shape, too. I think it might have been on my Ossa Pioneer or the Norton. Can't remember, nor can I remember if either of those even used a 520 chain. I know that it wasn't for the CX500... Nor would it have been for any of the other Hondas.

The chain and sprockets that I just took off are in fine shape with many miles left, so I am keeping them as a set to go with my knobby wheels. Heaven knows if I will ever really use those wheels again, but I have a set of bearings I ought to put into them, just 'cuz.
 

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Tom,
Do I remember correctly that chain companies say 1.5% - 2.0% increase of length of a drive chain is considered "Worn-Out"? So your chain was less than 10% of the allowable increase.
So I'm wondering just how many usable used drive chains you have in the Shed of Horrors? :)
I don't know what "chain companies" consider worn-out, but in the bicycle chain world, 0.75% elongation means replace the chain soon and 1.0% elongation means replace chain and sprockets now. Here's a pic of a bicycle chain wear checking tool.

To use the tool, simply engage the radiused-end of the 0.75% side on a roller and see if the hooked-end will fit between rollers. If the hooked-end drops down between rollers on the 0.75% scale flip the tool over and perform the same check on the 1% scale. If it "drops" between rollers on the 0.75% side/scale but not the 1%, you have some life remaining in the chain. If the tool drops on both sides/scales replace chain and sprockets.

It seems it would be easy enough to make a similar tool to check motorcycle chains.

Jason
 

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Or just grab the chain at the rear of the rear sprocket and pull. If you see daylight between the chain and sprocket you should have a new chain on hand or one on its way. Chains develop tight and loose sections...adjust the chain slack to the tight section and check for worn out chain on the loose section.
 

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Krause Racing / Sidewinder Sprockets used to make "The Judge" for 520/525/530 chain size at least.

I never purchased one and don't know whether they are still available, or not.
 

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I ran trail wings once, found they were difficult to put on as well. Now I use Shinko 705s, the ones made for tubes seem easier to mount than the ones that are tubeless.
 

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I ran trail wings once, found they were difficult to put on as well. Now I use Shinko 705s, the ones made for tubes seem easier to mount than the ones that are tubeless.
Yes, that would be normal.

The bead ID and profile of the beads are slightly different between tubeless & tube type tires!
 

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Yes, that would be normal.

The bead ID and profile of the beads are slightly different between tubeless & tube type tires!
I had the bad luck of ordering a tire without looking at the specs and wondered why it was so hard to get on and get the bead to seat. :grin2:
 

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I had the bad luck of ordering a tire without looking at the specs and wondered why it was so hard to get on and get the bead to seat. :grin2:
Did you by chance tape your drop-center spoke well? Tape riding up on the safety hump can prevent the bead from properly slipping over the hump. (A mis-positioned rim/spoke strip can do the same.)

As our luck would have it, the KLR rear rim is machined to properly fit a Tubeless Tire. They 'snap-on' over the tubeless safety hump so that even with tubeless rear tires fitted with tubes, one does Not Need to use a mechanical bead lock if using unusually low air pressure in sand, mud, dirt.
 

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....but it only makes life a bit easier now that I'm old; I've changed dozens if not hundreds of tires just kneeling on the floor/ground.:46:
Hello Dave, I too have changed a lot of tires... but still struggle with getting both beads into the drop center when changing tires on my own. Wondering if there is something you can suggest ?
I see in another post that the bead buddy is not very effective.
 

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Hello Dave, I too have changed a lot of tires... but still struggle with getting both beads into the drop center when changing tires on my own. Wondering if there is something you can suggest ?
I see in another post that the bead buddy is not very effective.
I know you addressed this to Dave but like him I've changed hundreds of tires on all kinds of motorcycles. I didn't see the post where someone stated the bead buddy is not very effective but in my experience and using one for decades I can assure you it works exactly as designed....forces the bead to slip down into tire center. I keep one by my tire changing station and one in my fanny pack. Tire changing is 80% technique, 15% having the right tools and 5% effort.
 

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As long as I use some lube, I've not experienced many issues getting the bead into the groove. I have bead buddies but I only use them maybe half the time....if things get a bit difficult. The "zip tie" method makes this issue dissappear but I didn't find it to be a game changer like some have expressed.....

Dave
 
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