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Discussion Starter #1
Gents,....I'd like to hear from people that have "external" (for the lack of better word) idle mixture screw. I kinda like the idea of being able to reach under the carb, and turn the knob by hand, instead of tilting the carb, or fiddling with a short screwdriver in order to adjust it.

Mine is still capped, and it hasn't been touched. I am not sure how important it is to adjust it periodically, and I am concerned about the thing getting packed with dirt, and whatnot.

Now that I have the carb in pieces, it would be the right time to install this thing. What are your experiences with it?
 

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Unless you're performing lots of (as in, obsessive-compulsive) IDLE mixture adjustment, the fuel screw remains pretty much a, "set it and forget it" component, in my experience.

If you're traveling regularly from Death Valley to the Pike's Peak summit, and experience difficulty starting and idling with elevation changes, easy idle mixture adjustment might be worthwhile.

The fuel screw dominates mixture only from idle to slightly above. If worth it to you, the screw for the Harley CV40 ought to fit the Kawasaki CVK40; be careful of all the little co-axially-mounted goodies prone to loss when you remove and replace the fuel screw (shown, I think, in the Carb Overhaul thread).

Oh, yes; EXPERIENCE. I have a Kouba (yeah, they make LINKS, too) T-handled fuel screw (installed on my KLF300 (ATV) CVK32; adjusted it ONCE, IIRC.
 

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Is the Sportster screw extended, about 5/8 - 3/4 inch? Probably work.

Some owners have drilled a hole in the center of the screw head and soldered a bent wire into the existing mixture screw.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Well,......if you guys didn't figure it out yet,...it's time for me to come clean. I am OCD,.....but I think in a good way. 0:) My wife (jokingly) says that whoever "created" me, was making me gay, and at the very last moment, changed his mind. Because,.....I am very clean, organized, I love classical music, arts, I am extremely conscious about my looks (I work out daily, and have sixpack at my age), wardrobe......you get the picture. And yet,.....I can't live without women! Sometimes she says it was a "crime" for me to be introduced to military, because THAT just exacerbated my natural disposition (sickness).

Like I said before,......I live above 4000', I will ride this thing from there up (sometimes over 8000'), AND I am planning a sailboat trip to the Med, AND the KLR will go with me. I WILL need to adjust that screw periodically (4-5 times with one of them possibly on the boat, or in the Monaco marina, with parts hard to find). My thinking is,......screw the damn thing in, and adjust the mix whenever/wherever the bike might need it. But,.......

Knowing me as well as I do,....I doubt this bike will ever be dirty (except for a short time on the mountain), but I would not like this to get packed with dirt/grime. That's why I was asking this question from the gurus. AFA HD screw,...don't get me wrong, 35 bucks is nothing for me, but I see the same crap for 16 bucks, and I might be "sick", "OCD", "anal", etc. but I refuse to be taken for a sucker. I did not get here where I am in my life, by being a sucker. Anotherwords,....it's not about the money, it's the principle.

I also LIKE to wrench (it relaxes me), but I don't like to wrench more than necessary. So while this thing is in pieces, I might as well do whatever I think of doing to this carb. Once I put it back in, I'll never take it off again (I am pretty sure rubber boots will outlive me). It'll be either .22, or KLX,.... AND "enricher" plunger, plus the idle mix screw. I'll also drill 1" holes in the side of the airbox (dirty side of course), and go to UNI.

Now,.....I could spend some time to do more reading, but,.....since you are ALL so generous with your knowledge, I'll ask here:

What would you recommend in terms of jetting (all jets!) for the intentional use of this bike? And remember,...no racing, no "wild" stuff, no sprocket changes, and no changes once set up. It needs to work like a Rolex (NOW that's a stretch I know!) at the sea level, and up to, let's say 8500' without taking the carb out, and without screwdriver.

Thank you.
 

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2 turns open on the idle mixture screw, 11 cent shim on the mid-range needle, 145 main jet.

Do Not Drill holes on the Side of the dirty air box, drill them on the top!

Retain your oem foam air filter, unless splitting at the seams and rotate as needed with the Uni-Filter.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
2 turns open on the idle mixture screw, 11 cent shim on the mid-range needle, 145 main jet.

Do Not Drill holes on the Side of the dirty air box, drill them on the top!

Retain your oem foam air filter, unless splitting at the seams and rotate as needed with the Uni-Filter.
Thank you. OEM filter is like new. I assume you mean "complete .11 mod" with 7/64 hole?
 

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Your CV carburetor compensates automatically for elevation changes within the range you mention, Danielsand (see, the less-dense air at altitude produces less Bernoulli-effect vacuum, drawing less fuel through the . . . oh, never mind! :))! But, from your personality profile, you'll never be satisfied with this automatic phenomenon, and you will continue "optimizing" the fuel-screw setting (even though you're not affecting more than about 1/8" throttle escalation). You probably will profit from an easily-adjustable fuel screw (the Kouba T-handle would be my preference, its setting position always visible, easily torqued in either direction).

While the 145 main jet is usually employed with the KLX needle (vs. the OEM needle), pdwestman's recommendation must be resepected, from his experience.

Don't know why you need "another enricher plunger." While you vow never to take your carburetor off again, keep, "Carb Overhaul" URL handy, just in case. Enricher plunger can be removed and replaced without carb removal, anyway (as can performance of the complete 22-cent/11-cent mod, even main jet replacement, simply rotate the carb).

The $ 16 fuel screw vs. the $ 35 fuel screw decision is harder to game; the cheaper product likely is made-in-China with attendant quality control, design and workmanship consequences . . . you may not simply be a sap for paying more for a quality component, especially one as critical as the fuel screw. However, if the notion you've cleverly shopped and bagged a bargain appears vastly more important to you, go for it! :)

So, you plan to tune your carburetor while afloat in the Mediterranean Ocean? While moored at the Monaco marina? (You ain't CATFISHING us, are you, man? :)) Must be a mighty big sailboat upon which you sail!

Your call on drilling the slide hole (vacuum port); you're unlikely to botch the job, given your fastidious nature and love of "wrenching." Especially since you'll doubtless chamfer both sides of the hole . . . :)

Your decision NOT to change sprockets must be respected; however . . . many riders engaged in the service life you postulate go up a tooth on the countershaft sprocket.

Post a picture of your ride, once you've farkled it to your taste! (Please share a snapshot of you and your KLR650 at Monaco's Casino de Monte Carlo (q.v., James Bond's, "Never Say Never Again") when you visit there.)

 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
I lived in Monaco for two years. On and off for 31 years in Europe (15 with my parents who were both in the military, and the rest on my own, courtesy of Uncle Sam).

As far as the boat,........my wife grew up on 75' yacht in Dana Point. She is a sailing instructor (hobby). I can't sail worth of crap, but I am an EXCELLENT navigator. We sold 45' power boat that was moored in Newport Beach, back in 2011. Bought 140 acre horse ranch, and rescued horses. Then we sold that,purchased 45' Prevost, and moved to Idaho, and bought 40 acre ranch. After we purchased the ranch, we sold Prevost (not needed any more).

We still have four horses left. They are all rescued, and older. They won't last 2-3 years max, at which point we will sell Idaho property, purchase a 45' Ketch (a family member has it now, waiting for us to take over when we are ready), and sail it to Europe. My wife was stationed in Turkey for 5 years, and is of Irish/Greek descent (wants to spend at least 6-8 months in each country, which rules out "vacationing" for a week or two). I am of German/Croatian descent, and I want to spend about the same time in Adriatic (Croatia and Montenegro). I lived over there before. Buying properties, and moving on, is not cost effective. So,....with her background in sailing, we decided to live on the boat for a while (as we did on land in Prevost), until we find the place where we want to die.

She is ready to retire in couple of years,.....and that's it. I retired from US in 1995. Owned several business until 2015, and fully retired since.

As far as "enricher",......I am about to install the choke plunger (I call this thing a "choke" my whole life, but was corrected on this site to refer to it as "enricher"!). Turning the carb sideways is hindered by the original set up, and since I hated how cheap/plasticky it was , I just cut it off. Carb is out now, and I want to do to it everything that I think I might need. Like I said before,....I don't need more power, I don't do whilies/stoppies either. I just want it to run like a Swiss watch (thumper style), at any elevation I might find myself at. We are planning at least a year (from the start) to get to the Med. Haven't decided yet if we will sail from CA (where the boat is now), or transport the boat to the East Coast, and sail from there (shortening the trip considerably). Not too keen on Caribbean (pirates), and goofy gun laws that pretty much leave you defenseless.

In any case,.....there will be MANY ports we will be stopping at on the way, and KLR will be unloaded on the dock for grocery shopping, sightseeing, etc. That's why I was asking about the idle mixture screw, thinking that it would be much easier to manipulate (if needed) on the go. If CVK40 compensates for my range in elevation, than I don't need to do anything else. Once (in any given location), I have enough power, no backfire, smooth idle, and snappy throttle, I will not screw with it, despite my OCD. Everything I own "has to" be perfect, and in perfect running condition,....just the way I am.

When we are on the way, I will definitely post pictures from different ports, if I'm still a member here. If I'm not,...I'll have a blog on the web under the same moniker (easily found). I don't have a blog now, and I don't do ANY "social media".

And that's that.

P.S. the pic in your post is Monte Carlo (casino), and a lot of people mix the two (Monaco/Monte Carlo). Monaco is the country, Monte Carlo is just a casino. I love Monaco, but I don't gamble. I had to post this for the ones that don't know, and don't care to search.
 

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Just for clarification, a CHOKE restricts airflow, producing a fuel-rich mixture for starting; an ENRICHER (in the case of the CVK40) opens both fuel and air passages, providing a fuel-rich starting mixture, without affecting airflow. A profound description of the KLR650's "CHOKE" can be found in the, "Morning Coffee" section of the article accessible from the link:

Care & Feeding Of The Keihin Carb



Sailing the 45' ketch to Europe from the US west coast, will you go through the Panama Canal or around the tip of South America? Or, westward, through the orient, maybe up the Suez Canal, perhaps?
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Sailing the 45' ketch to Europe from the US west coast, will you go through the Panama Canal or around the tip of South America? Or, westward, through the orient, maybe up the Suez Canal, perhaps?
This is still up for discussion. Wife wants to go from Newport Beach down to Panama, leaving in October. Spending winter following Mexican coast, through the canal, and island hopping till April. Up the Eastern Seaboard, and leaving Newfoundland for Island in mid May. Reaching Scotland by late June, going down to Gibraltar, and be in Barcelona by late September.

I am concerned about security in Mexico, Central America, and the Caribbean. I favor transporting the boat to the Great Lakes, and sail out of St. Lawrence, going straight for Island, via commercial shipping lanes (more traffic, more help if needed, and MUCH shorter route).

I think this is the safest/fastest route. Going West is a no-go! Past Hawaii is not safe, becoming increasingly DANGEROUS around Africa, and downright suicidal in Gulf of Aden/Suez (I wouldn't go there without a full US Navy armada!).

Going down to Tierra Del Fuego!? WTH? I'm not going to Australia/New Zealand! Not trying to sail around the world (not interested). I just want to spend few years in the Med/Adriatic, and MAYBE settle somewhere till I die. The move to ID was my 29th move in my life (WAY too much moving). I moved back and forth between us/Europe three times!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
2 turns open on the idle mixture screw, 11 cent shim on the mid-range needle, 145 main jet.

Do Not Drill holes on the Side of the dirty air box, drill them on the top!

Retain your oem foam air filter, unless splitting at the seams and rotate as needed with the Uni-Filter.

Can you explain this to me? Given,...it's been about 40 years since I played with carburetors, but some thing is bothering me here. Stock main jet is 148, correct? KLR runs lean from the factory (stock setup), correct? I removed snorkel (introducing more air, and adding to the original lean condition). Tuning the bike (currently) at 4600', I think "extra lean" condition (with removal of the snorkel) should be compensated by the elevation, correct? Now,......IF I drill the airbox, I will lean it even more, correct? So why would I go to the smaller main!? If anything, I should introduce more fuel to this equation to keep it balanced.

What am I missing?
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Just for clarification, a CHOKE restricts airflow, producing a fuel-rich mixture for starting; an ENRICHER (in the case of the CVK40) opens both fuel and air passages, providing a fuel-rich starting mixture, without affecting airflow.
Thank you. I knew that, but it's much easier to me to type "choke", than "enricher", and this word sounds so politically correct (kinda like "pre owned cars"!) that I hate it.
 

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What am I missing?
The "leanness" of the KLR650 occurs mainly in mid-range operation; this phenomenon largely spawned needle-shimming--raising the needle moves its profile, allowing additional fuel (vs. stock configuration) to flow into the mixture within this operational range. The profiles of aftermarket (jet kit) and KLX needles produce different air/fuel ratios.

At WOT (wide-open throttle) operation, the stock needle and main jet provide a robustly fuel-rich mixture; thus, pdwestman recommended a 145 main jet (some assumption on my part).

The modifications you consider address air flow restriction reduction, principally. The facilitated flow enhances Volumetric Efficiency (see thread on the subject) and consequent performance potential.

All this said, I think you would be perfectly happy with a totally stock air ingestion and fuel delivery system, given your intended KLR650 riding environment and style. From your comments, you are NOT riding Moto-Cross, or attempting the World Land Speed Record on your KLR650; I believe the vast majority of KLR650s produced and marketed worldwide over the last 30 years somehow muddle through in absolutely stock configuration (they even have stock DOOHICKEYS!).

:)

Yet . . . if you remain curious/doubtful about your idle mixture or air/fuel ratio at any point on the operational spectrum, why not have a DYNAMOMETER RUN performed, with attendant air/fuel chart? Or just have your bike hooked up to an exhaust gas analyzer? The cost for these professional services shouldn't compromise your lifestyle, from your description.
 

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Danielssand, etymology of "choke," as a noun, comes from the verb, "to choke," an actual function of an authentic choke--it "chokes" the air passage into the engine. Many, ignorant of the distinction between a choke and a starting enricher, refer to the KLR650 system as a "choke," even, perhaps in service manuals. More fastidious and precise speech favors "enricher," but if the term is offensive to you, everyone knows what you mean when you use the term, "choke," in the KLR650 context! :)

But . . . you STILL haven't disclosed why you need a new enricher plunger!

-------------------------

I somehow gathered the notion, our British cousins use the term, "strangler," as a synonym for what Americans call a "choke." :)
 

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Daniel, The 11 cent shim to richen the mid-range needle just a hair is simply that. One shim only, so it isn't overly rich at 8000 ft.

The vacuum hole enlargement has nothing to do with jetting.
I'm even a little uncertain if it actually allows the venturi vacuum to physically raise the slide 'Quicker' against the internal spring and the weight of the valve.
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
OK,.....looks like more explanation needed.:grin2:

To have the bike professionally tuned is no big deal back where I lived 1,5 years ago (SoCal). Here,....it's PAIN to say the least. I would have to make 7-8 hour RT with the trailer to MT, and I am not about to do that. But that might not be the main reason.

The other reason is,.......I grew up just outside of Ramstein AFB, and I have a childhood friend over there (lifelong friend), with which I crisscrossed Europe on the bikes back in my teens (and the US from Sturgis, to Daytona, and from SF, to Mardi Gras, Vegas, etc. whenever he visits over here).

"Most recently" (1999) I was living in Munich, and we rode all over the Alps, down through Slovenia, Croatia, Serbia, Bulgaria, to Istanbul, Turkey.

When I got this KLR as a present, I told him about it, and he said,.... verbatim: "Get rid of that POS, and buy new KTM, you can certainly afford it. My brother used to have one of those Jap turds,...it was a DOG!" His exact words. We ended "arguing" whether KLR can be improved, with him saying "Of course it can when you have money to burn!" And I said: "Bullshit, I can make this thing run like a raped ape with 20 bucks!") Maybe I boasted little too much, but it will be no more than $50.

So,....as much as I will ride this conservatively, it would be VERY NICE (to me!) to meet him in France (as we are planning), and impress the crap out of him by a "turd" that can come up with the blip of the throttle! Not so much about doing the wheelies, but with a "turd" that runs like a Swiss watch, and all being done with minimal, or no expense. Just to prove him wrong. Also, when I'm riding from the marina, into the Alps, it would be nice to reach down, and adjust idle mix with my fingertips (if needed), hence my interest in "external" screw.

I just finished drilling the slide. I don't have #4 washer handy (I looked everywhere), and I don't want to drive 30 miles to get one. I'll be in town on Monday, get the washer, and by that time the "choke" will be here too. I still won't be able to put it together, because it will be at least a week before I can get the jet. Thank you for the explanation above, I ordered 145 jet before I started typing this.

Now I guess everyone knows the whole story. I didn't want to write all this (I think it doesn't belong on the forum), but you asked for an explanation. So read it.:wink2:
 

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Discussion Starter #19 (Edited)
But . . . you STILL haven't disclosed why you need a new enricher plunger!

-------------------------

I somehow gathered the notion, our British cousins use the term, "strangler," as a synonym for what Americans call a "choke." :)
It surprises me that you think I didn't know the reason why the choke is called the "choke"! I admit I did not know that KLR enricher, works as you described (before I joined this forum). When I got the bike back in October, I didn't know ANYTHING about this bike, and I thought it's a normal "choke" that "chokes" the carb out of air (just like any other lawnmower!)

Also,....I did mention why I need a new one. I am pretty infamous in my circles for not having ANY patience (it's a MIRACLE I am still typing the explanations here to the people I don't even know!).

The other day, I was going to remove the carb after unsuccessful attempt to clean it by tilting it. I did not have a "crowfoot" or whatever, and the wrenches I have did not work on the plastic POS enricher nut. So,.....with outmost patience, and with a very subtle swearing, I gently reached for my snips, and cut the f****ing cable, while mentioning most of the saints I know about, and the God himself, therefore confirming my reservation for the hot place down below! I unscrewed the lever, used the socket to take the POS out of the carb, and threw the whole contraption in the garbage (except the plunger and the spring of course).

I hope all is clear now?:AngryFinger:
 

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What would you recommend in terms of jetting (all jets!) for the intentional use of this bike? And remember,...no racing, no "wild" stuff, no sprocket changes, and no changes once set up. It needs to work like a Rolex (NOW that's a stretch I know!) at the sea level, and up to, let's say 8500' without taking the carb out, and without screwdriver.

Thank you.
Get the KLX kit from EM and follow the instructions. For your stated use and mods, here's what worked for me;

- KH 142.5 main, second clip position, no shims
- stock pilot
- 2 turns on the fuel screw.

...that's it. I've ridden from sea level to 8-9,000 ft. and my engines are bone stock except for the snorkle-ectomy, 4-1" holes, Uni filter and I'm running a Gen2 head pipe and aftermarket silencer (the silencers don't affect the jetting much)

other than the enricher nut the only other thing I can think of is if you wanted to swap the JIS carb screws for a set of EM's hex units - personal choice if the JIS's are still in good shape.

Cheers,
Dave
 
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