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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys, I've never been in a forum or anything so sorry up front if I'm posting in the wrong place, or breaking some other sort of rules.

I bought a 2011 KLR 650 about a month ago and have right at 3K miles on it. Today I was riding through some woods and was coming down a hill when my bike shut off. My trip odometer was at 187 so I figured I went through my gas A LOT quicker than I normally do and switched it to reserve. Still nothing.
I then determined that must have been a blown fuse, so I went to take off the seat and found out that the stock toolkit that comes with the KLR doesn't have the tools necessary to take off the seat and check the fuses.
After pushing the bike over a mile to the nearest road, calling for a ride and getting home. I was able to use some tools to check everything out.
I'm not getting any spark to the cylinder. What/why could be causing that? The bike is still under warranty but I think if I take it in they will find something that happens to fall outside the warranty somehow.

Thanks
 

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Hey guys, I've never been in a forum or anything so sorry up front if I'm posting in the wrong place, or breaking some other sort of rules.

I bought a 2011 KLR 650 about a month ago and have right at 3K miles on it. Today I was riding through some woods and was coming down a hill when my bike shut off. My trip odometer was at 187 so I figured I went through my gas A LOT quicker than I normally do and switched it to reserve. Still nothing.
I then determined that must have been a blown fuse, so I went to take off the seat and found out that the stock toolkit that comes with the KLR doesn't have the tools necessary to take off the seat and check the fuses.
After pushing the bike over a mile to the nearest road, calling for a ride and getting home. I was able to use some tools to check everything out.
I'm not getting any spark to the cylinder. What/why could be causing that? The bike is still under warranty but I think if I take it in they will find something that happens to fall outside the warranty somehow.

Thanks

The side stand safety switch most likely. Most disable it and the clutch safety switch. There's 2 wires from the side stand switch jump them together and see if it starts.

Safety Switch Bypass
 

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ackeitha -

Welcome to the forum!

Now, some more info, please.

I presume you have power and that the bike can crank over.

Do like spec says and check the interlocks.

Have you pulled the tank to check for chafing of the wire harness near the coil. They were supposed to have fixed that a couple of years ago, but...

Have you checked all your ground connections to make sure they are secure?

Check the wiring harness extending from the ignition switch and make sure that it is not being strained when the bars are turned. There have been reports of broken wires in the ignition switch area.

T
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Update

Tom, you are correct. The bike does try to crank, it just never fires. I'm in the process of checking the wires again. I already had the tank off when I was checking for spark and didn't notice any wearing on the wires near the top tube.

Spec, I did a quick check of the sidestand safety by shorting out the connection at the interlock with no luck.

Back to the garage for me... (Why can't I get something as simple as a blown fuse? :( )
 

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This was the spot where the wire chafed on the first Gen1 bikes. This resulted in a recall and is supposed to be fixed on your bike. Might be worth a look anyway.





Electrical issues are a sumbitch. Check all the connections, disconnecting and reconnecting. Test as you go so that you can isolate what the problem was.

I don't mean to be Captain Obvious, but you do have gas in the bowl of the carb, right? It's not a petcock failure where the petcock pooped out or the vacuum line came off?

I wish I could come up with a genius idea for ya....

T
 

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Discussion Starter #6
When I took the tank off for the first time, I had to disconnect both the vacuum and gas line from the petcock. I just checked the drain plug on the carb and it has fuel as well.

I took the spark plug out earlier and I wasn't getting any spark. I then checked the spark plug wire by taking out the spark plug, sticking a screwdriver in there and holding it next to the frame as a ground and still didn't get any spark. Going down the line, how do I check my coil?

Thanks for all the pictures!
 

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If it were me having to get this bike going, I would be working at ruling out a fuel issue. Take the air filter out and crank the bike, shooting an aerosol like WD40 in the carburetor intake. If it fires, re-focus on the fuel delivery. If the song remains the same, go back to your electrical Exorcism. I'm not sure how you are checking for spark. Grounding fails as often as it works for me. An inline spark tester is only a few bucks and removes any question.

EDIT: Sorry. Sometimes I get distracted by things like the phone when putting together a post. You answered some of my questions between the time I began the post, and the time it actually got posted. Your skills at diagnostics may far exceed mine. I have little faith in the grounding method, and rely on an inline tester. About three bucks at an auto supply house.
 

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First check the connections to the coil. Coils don't often go bad.

You can check the resistance of the windings. The primary (across the two blade terminals) should be about 2 ohms. The secondary (across the black or green terminal and the spark plug wire terminal) should be about 10Kohms.

To do a basic check of the igniter, remove the igniter module connector. The voltage across the brown and black/yellow wires, with the ignition switch on, should be battery voltage (13ish).

More dumb stuff - try a new spark plug and check for spark again. Disable the interlocks to get them out of the way. Make sure the battery is fully charged.

Do the dumb stuff. If all the tests check out and the dumb stuff is OK, then you're going to need to get the coil tested or replaced, and then move on to checking the peak voltage of the igniter, and the crankshaft sensor. Yuck.

T
 

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By the by, do you have any sort of manual?

Don't cut anything. If worst comes to worse, and adverse as I am to the idea, this should be an easy warranty issue.

Remember, too, that if you have fuel, air, and spark at the right time the engine will run. Look for the simple things first.

T
 

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and adverse as I am to the idea, this should be an easy warranty issue.

Look for the simple things first.

T
I couldn't agree with either comments more!!

Check out the simple stuff.. If it's not any of them, remember that your bike's new and you paid for the warranty when you bought the bike as part of the purchase price.. Sometimes you gotta use it..
 

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More dumb stuff from Captain obvious...

You didn't accidently hit the kill switch, did you?

Hate to keep up with the dumb stuff, but it often turns out to be something so easy, and I am reminded that I love nothing more than flipping MB4's kill switch when we stop.

T
 

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I am reminded that I love nothing more than flipping MB4's kill switch when we stop.

T
I got a couple buddies last weekend by flipping the heated grips to high.. It was 90 degrees out.. The grips don't turn on until the bike's started.. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #13
First check the connections to the coil. Coils don't often go bad.

You can check the resistance of the windings. The primary (across the two blade terminals) should be about 2 ohms. The secondary (across the black or green terminal and the spark plug wire terminal) should be about 10Kohms.

To do a basic check of the igniter, remove the igniter module connector. The voltage across the brown and black/yellow wires, with the ignition switch on, should be battery voltage (13ish).

More dumb stuff - try a new spark plug and check for spark again. Disable the interlocks to get them out of the way. Make sure the battery is fully charged.

Do the dumb stuff. If all the tests check out and the dumb stuff is OK, then you're going to need to get the coil tested or replaced, and then move on to checking the peak voltage of the igniter, and the crankshaft sensor. Yuck.

T
Since all the bike shops are closed on Sunday and Monday I decided to look at her some more...

For the resistance of the coil. I was getting 2.4 Ohms across the primary and 15.7 K Ohms for the secondary.

My battery voltage is right at 12V and cranking voltage is ~9V

I didn't want to start disassembling anything, so i just checked the side stand safety and it is working as well. OL (Overload on my multimeter) when down and 0 Ohms when up.

I checked the amperes at the spark plug line when trying to crank and I wasn't getting anything. Unless anyone has any ideas I'm just going to wait this one out until I can find time to take my baby to the shop :(

NOTE: I'm not even sure why I checked the amps since I assume the spark plug is fired by discharging a capacitor and wouldn't read anything anyway but I'm trying everything I can at this point. I want to ride!!!
 

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Your battery is not fully charged. May not make a difference; those are borderline numbers.

T
 

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Since all the bike shops are closed on Sunday and Monday I decided to look at her some more...

For the resistance of the coil. I was getting 2.4 Ohms across the primary and 15.7 K Ohms for the secondary.

My battery voltage is right at 12V and cranking voltage is ~9V

I didn't want to start disassembling anything, so i just checked the side stand safety and it is working as well. OL (Overload on my multimeter) when down and 0 Ohms when up.

I checked the amperes at the spark plug line when trying to crank and I wasn't getting anything. Unless anyone has any ideas I'm just going to wait this one out until I can find time to take my baby to the shop :(

NOTE: I'm not even sure why I checked the amps since I assume the spark plug is fired by discharging a capacitor and wouldn't read anything anyway but I'm trying everything I can at this point. I want to ride!!!

You're battery is dead. Does it have water in the cells? The battery should read almost 13 volts with no load. Doesn't have enough voltage to fire the CDI probably.
 

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Hope you get this problem figured out. Just a note regarding your mention of not having the necessary tools in your standard KLR tool kit to remove the seat bolts. You might want to consider just taking them out and leaving them out. I don't see that they serve any useful purpose. Mine have been out for two years now. One quick yank and the seat is off. Folks have also rigged up quick-release pins in place of the bolts if you're more safety-conscious than I am.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
UPDATE:

I dropped my bike off at the local stealership and had them see if they could solve the problem for me. I told them everything that I had done and checked already to hopefully help them get it back to me quicker.

Two days later I got the call to come pick her up, but when I got there they surprised me with a $300 bill... Apparently the wire for the crankshaft sensor is housed next to the front sprocket and inside the guard. It took two of their mechanics 3 hours to find it and I had pay for labor. I called Kawasaki to dispute it and they said that it was a "freak incident" and wouldn't be covered by warranty.

I feel like I got bent over by the dealership, but good news...

When I got home, I had my new Mefo Explorer tires, rear brake cylinder guard and license plate box hider thing waiting for me. Wrenching got my mind off my money.

Changing the tires out is a b*tch!!! It took me 2.5 hours. and i only took 30 minutes to get the front off, changed, and back on.
 

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What was the deal with the wire? I'm assuming cut, chafed or pinched?

Good deal on getting your tires changed. I went with the Explorers myself and am very happy with them. I'm curious to see how long they'll last.
 

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I'm glad you got your Bike fixed. I'm just curious but you seem pretty calm about your warranty not being worth the paper it is written on. Not that you are wrong. I just don't understand why it seems to be prettty routine with the KLR. Do you have any insight. Did you fight at all or was it not worth the time.



UPDATE:

I dropped my bike off at the local stealership and had them see if they could solve the problem for me. I told them everything that I had done and checked already to hopefully help them get it back to me quicker.

Two days later I got the call to come pick her up, but when I got there they surprised me with a $300 bill... Apparently the wire for the crankshaft sensor is housed next to the front sprocket and inside the guard. It took two of their mechanics 3 hours to find it and I had pay for labor. I called Kawasaki to dispute it and they said that it was a "freak incident" and wouldn't be covered by warranty.

I feel like I got bent over by the dealership, but good news...

When I got home, I had my new Mefo Explorer tires, rear brake cylinder guard and license plate box hider thing waiting for me. Wrenching got my mind off my money.

Changing the tires out is a b*tch!!! It took me 2.5 hours. and i only took 30 minutes to get the front off, changed, and back on.
 
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