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Discussion Starter #1
Hi All,

This is the continuing saga of my carb cleaning/manual petcock install, figured I'd start a new thread as my search came up without meaningful results.

I bought the Stead choke collar and am ready to put it on, but I can't figure out how to remove the old (partially broken) one.

I tried twisting various parts, but nothing seemed to loosen and I worried that I might twist/bind the cable.

I'm looking around youtube right now, but thought I ask here as I'm sure a few of you have done this before.

Then I have to figure out how to get the carb back in the boots.

Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks Back2Kawi!

I guess I was doing it right but not using enough muscle. I always worry that I will break something when I try to use force to overcome resistance in mechanical stuff.
 

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Didn't watch the video, but . . . to replace the carburetor cable coupling, as I recall, the enricher plunger spring must be compressed, and the plunger removed via a slot in its holder. The old coupling falls away; the new one installed by more-or-less reversing the procedure.

Check the new "choke" coupling's flats; I think they are 1/2" vs. 12 mm.
 

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Hi All,

I bought the Stead choke collar and am ready to put it on, but I can't figure out how to remove the old (partially broken) one.

I tried twisting various parts, but nothing seemed to loosen and I worried that I might twist/bind the cable.

Then I have to figure out how to get the carb back in the boots.

Thanks!
mrsteve,
I'll assume that you mean the threads of the broken plastic choke fitting are still screwed into the carb?

If so, disconnect the cable from Up at the Handlebars and take the carb and the Cable to the work bench, so you have clear view and room to work. Using an awl or possibly flat blade screw driver you should be able to unscrew the broken threads of the fitting from the carb.

I'll suggest to use a little anti-seize grease on the threads of the new aluminum fitting.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for all the info!

Little back story - I took the carb off and apart for cleaning, it was varnished badly and the floats were stuck. A big bottle of pine sol and a can of carb cleaner later and I think I'm ready to put the carb back on the bike.

But the choke collar is cracked. I can probably reassemble with the cracked one, but figure while I have everything apart I'll do it right. Got the Stead part, but can't figure out how to remove the old one. Haven't tried what Damocles suggested yet, but expect to spend some time on it today.

Thanks again!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok!

Damocles was right on the button! :desismiley1:

After pushing, pulling and generally fooling with the end of the choke cable I figured what he meant, slide the spring down to expose a slot that allows removal of the cable from the end. Got the Stead part on, the carb in the boots, and the choke cable attached.

Now to home depot to see if I can replace some of the POS screws/fasteners that Kawasaki used. :46:

I am profoundly disappointed in the quality of the fasteners used on the KLR. Considering the huge number of fastners they buy, I can't imagine it would cost more than an extra $10 a bike to use fastners that don't dissolve when touched with a screwdriver. :arghh:

After home depot I'll be reviewing/searching youtube to make sure I put the hoses back in the right places and hopefully starting the bike tonight.
 

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Glad you got the Stead alloy enricher cable coupling installed, mrsteve!

Now, about FASTENERS.

The carburetor machine screws have JIS (Japanese Industrial Standard) heads, NOT SAE Phillips heads. You can get a better grip on these with a JIS bit; however . . . even so, Galvanic corrosion, between the dissimilar metals (steel machine screws and alloy carburetor body) can result in tremendous adhesion.

An IMPACT DRIVER may be essential to remove some stuck screws; or, judicious application of Vise-Grip pliers; or, cutting a flat-blade screwdriver slot in the screw head with a hacksaw or Dremel Moto-Tool . . .

After that's done, a good idea is REPLACING all external carburetor screws with Allen-head (hex socket) screws, for increased torque. Anti-seize compound on the threads isn't a bad idea, either. Eagle Mike sells an inexpensive kit of Allen-head carburetor screws.

Again, congratulations on solving the starting enricher cable puzzle!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Its done!

Got everything back together and she fired right up. Running a little rough, but running. I put some seafoam in the tank and rode up and down the block.

Still a bit rough, but I'm taking it as a win. I pulled the carb and tank, replaced the spark plug and the screws that hold the top and bottom of the carb on, stripped down and soaked the carb in pine sol, cleaned all the parts with water and then carb cleaner, and then put it all back together.

By far the biggest mechanical thing I've ever attempted and I could not have done it without you all's help.

Thanks again!
 
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