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Here's my solution saving $$ at the pump with sub par gasoline, it costs just 3.99usd per bottle(carry it in my pannier with other supplies). Lasts quite a few fill ups(only using ounces at a time). This way I can run the "cheapest option" to save$$ at the pump. One tank fill up with the least expensive gasoline VS the 'premium' option easily pays back what I spent on the additive..

I believe it simply 'xylene' which has a MOR(motor octane rating) of 115 and a ROR(research octane rating) of 118.

Below is the formula I use to achieve (91(R+M/2) using (87(R+M/2) to start with. Additionally, I can 'enrich' the blend to compensate for any observable 'pinging' as needed and I get rapid results.

Keep in mind Research octane(ROR) is always higher than Motor octane(MOR) which is why at the pump you always see the (R+M/2) formula because they are basically averaging things out. It has to do with the testing process for each.
Liquid Plant Bottle Automotive tire Fluid

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Hope this helps, best wishes as always and remember (Ride hard, life is short!)
 
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KLRforum: A place, meeting or medium where ideas and views on KLR's can be exchanged.
(A man can dream...)
TROLL ALERT!
This guy has nothing better to do.
 

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Look who's talking! Over 1K post in less than a year! Get a life!
I’ve seen some of your previous posts. Nothing really worthwhile to read, nor have you added much constructive commentary on this forum to any members or topics in specific (for the most part).

That’s why we are here. To bring personal expertise to the table & help others that may be struggling….whether that be with mechanical, physical, or mental distress. Riding & being apart of this forum is a destresser for me, as it is with many other fellow members.
Sorry if you feel I need to “get a life” because of it.

Your commentary is very similar to an online troll. Online jabs will always be prevalent, and most of the time they’re friendly ones.
But that doesn’t mean you need to be “that kinda guy”, who only logs onto this forum to start crap.
Instead, bring something worthwhile to the table. Whether it’s a good deal on cool accessories for our KLR’s, or assisting someone that’s struggling in getting their bike back on the road. Make it count.
🍻
 
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KLRforum: A place, meeting or medium where ideas and views on KLR's can be exchanged.
(A man can dream...)

TROLL ALERT!
This guy has nothing better to do.
Was this supposed to be funny?


I’ve seen some of your previous posts. Nothing really worthwhile to read, nor have you added much constructive commentary on this forum to any members or topics in specific (for the most part).
I find nothing wrong with Vgraf's minimal postings. I like his storage shed, I wish I had one.
He apparently has more important things to keep himself busy, than typing on a keyboard.
 

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Here's my solution saving $$ at the pump with sub par gasoline, it costs just 3.99usd per bottle(carry it in my pannier with other supplies). Lasts quite a few fill ups(only using ounces at a time). This way I can run the "cheapest option" to save$$ at the pump. One tank fill up with the least expensive gasoline VS the 'premium' option easily pays back what I spent on the additive..

I believe it simply 'xylene' which has a MOR(motor octane rating) of 115 and a ROR(research octane rating) of 118.

Below is the formula I use to achieve (91(R+M/2) using (87(R+M/2) to start with. Additionally, I can 'enrich' the blend to compensate for any observable 'pinging' as needed and I get rapid results.

Keep in mind Research octane(ROR) is always higher than Motor octane(MOR) which is why at the pump you always see the (R+M/2) formula because they are basically averaging things out. It has to do with the testing process for each.
View attachment 37178
View attachment 37179
Hope this helps, best wishes as always and remember (Ride hard, life is short!)
Is that a K-Bar in the back???

RC
 

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There is an old wives tale or myth that has been around ever since the creation of different octane fuels. It goes like this: "Higher octane fuels will increase the performance of my engine." Sorry Margaret it does not work that way.

Looking at your owners manual online it recommends a minimum of 87 octane. I would run 87 just as I do in my 2014 KLR.
You can run 89 or 91 if you want but you will not gain any performance, in fact you may actually lose some performance.

Higher octane fuel is designed for higher compression engines to prevent pre-ignition or knock which over time will damage your engine. The higher the octane the slower the burn which eliminates the pre-ignition problem.
If you talk with an engine dyno tuner he will confirm performance loss going to higher octane fuel unnecessarily. I have heard dyno reports of several horsepower loss on engines in the 100 HP class.

So save your hard earned money and smile every time you fill up with good o'l 87 octane. Remember to thank Brandon too for your pain at the pump.

This article demonstrates this on the dyno. It is an accurate test as no tuning on the engine is done during the test. 3 fuel octanes were tested.

100% Correct.


What kind of Fuel Grade to use is like Oil threads. It can start wars.

Here's my opinion only:

If you have to ask what others are using, then use 87 Octane.

For me, I use 91 Octane for the added detergents to help keep my engine clean. It makes me feel better and I am 100% comfortable with that. And if I were riding at higher elevation and its hot out and I'm climbing up a steep hill, it might help my engine too. The KLR's comp ratio is 10:1. It doesn't need 91 but it doesn't hurt it either. I don't mind paying extra for my bike and it's my bank account. I also run 91 on all my other bikes, including high comp bikes.
Higher altitude REDUCES octane requirements. ALL MOTOR fuels have virtually the same detergent qualities unless it's a very low grade from an off brand station. If the pump says "Top Tier" fuel, the only difference is octane rating. The higher octane fuel is of zero benefit to your bike, especially at high altitudes......for me, it's just throwing money away needlessly. But again, it's your money....
 

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100% Correct.




Higher altitude REDUCES octane requirements.
Yep. Higher altitudes means less dense air, which causes your air/fuel mixture to go richer since you now have more fuel and less air due to the decreased density.

When I went cruising in high school, we occasionally drove to a town 30 miles away that was about 900' lower in altitude. I had to retar-d my timing to avoid pinging (pre-detonation) due to a leaner fuel mixture.
 

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Yep. Higher altitudes means less dense air, which causes your air/fuel mixture to go richer since you now have more fuel and less air due to the decreased density.

When I went cruising in high school, we occasionally drove to a town 30 miles away that was about 900' lower in altitude. I had to retar-d my timing to avoid pinging (pre-detonation) due to a leaner fuel mixture.
Most people don't know what that means anymore and think that you are being inappropriate for advancing or retarding your timing! All timing should be treated with respect. It also means that you're like me....OLD! BTW, the house I bought a few years ago had a set of points hanging by a nail in the garage. My boys wanted to know what that object was. I told them it was....priceless! Beers to those who still have a timing light and a tach/dwell meter!

Regards, Jim.
 
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