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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Guys and Girls,

So I finally got my 1993 KLR650 up and running Friday evening, and I gotta be honest, I feel like it's a bit of a dog.
So the engine runs like a top. It's super responsive and I got full range of the throttle (I initially thought I mis-adjusted the cables, but they're spot on).
It seems to like lugging down below 4000RPM, but it doesn't seem to be as expedient as I was expecting.
I had a 2007 DRZ400 for a few years, so perhaps I'm used to the responsiveness of that bike.

I'll give a run-down of what my average RPM's in 5th have been since I've been doing a decent amount of long straight stretches of road:
- 55 MPH: 3000RPM (around about)
- 60 MPH: 3500RPM
- 65 MPH: 3750-4000 RPM
- 70 MPH: 4500 RPM

Now I haven't checked to see if the rear or front sprockets have been changed on it, but is this a normal stock gearing?
If so, I'd actually like to raise my ratios, but still be able to use it for commuting to work.

If you got any other suggestions to make it...a bit more peppier, besides the big bore kit, let me know.

And yes, this bike actually does have LESS THAN 4600 miles. It sat for about 10 years before I got it to run again.
Once again, thanks Tom Schmitz, Damocles, and everyone else for putting up with my stupid electrical questions.
 

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Seems that your gearing is probably stock. The speedometer reads high by anywhere from 7% to 10%, so it can be hard to tell if the gearing is stock from reported indicated speed vs RPM.

Approximate Indicated Speed
Stock Gearing
3,000 49
3,500 57
4,000 65
4,500 73
5,000 81

Actual Speed
Stock Gearing
3,000 45
3,500 52
4,000 60
4,500 67
5,000 75

The stock gearing would be 15/43.

Depending on what type of riding you expect to do you can, with the stock chain, vary the gearing from an extreme low of 13/48 to an extreme high of 16/40. Going to a higher ratio than 16/43 will make it pretty doggy. 16/43 is acceptable for freeway riding and will get the revs down below 5000RPM at a true speed of 70mph.

If you do a fair amount of riding at 70+mph, watch your oil consumption very closely. If it burns oil, consider the pdwestman mods to reduce oil consumption.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Final Drives

Hi Tom!

Let me first start off by saying sorry about my...uh incompetence of electrical before. I did get it figured out eventually after a few Molson's and a trip to get some OEM parts.

Anyways, so you're saying a final drive ratio of about 2.68 should be a decent trade-off for some torque over speed?
I was thinking of gearing the final drive to a 16T/40T, so it's a 2.50 final ratio.

I don't necessarily take a lot of highways and I do plan on taking it up to Potter County, PA come spring time. For the fall, I'll end up hitting some powerline trails.
I drive about 75% city and 25% highway generally speaking. If I'm taking a long trip, I can just swap out the sprockets if need-be.

I want to check oil consumption with this engine as-is since it sat for so long. It's not visibly burning oil or having any blow-by from the piston rings, but I do want to do an oil consumption test at the end of the month (so around 500 total miles put on the bike, give or take depending on the weather here in PA).

I put 2.75 quarts since the case was essentially dry when I bought the bike. I only drained 1.5 quarts when I drained it initially :frown2:
 

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Daniel, I think that 16/40 would be pretty tall gearing. The KLR has a tall first gear even with stock gearing, so changing it by 12% over stock might make for some difficulty getting it going.

Three teeth in the back is just about equal to one tooth on the front, so 16/40 is about equivalent to 17/43. People do that combination, so it's not unheard of. I remember, though, when my 2008 was stock and I put a 16 tooth on it. Wouldn't pull the hat off my head and had to be downshifted for grades. I tried a 17 much later, after installing a 685, and did not care for it.

These things don't mind being spun up if they are in good shape, so don't be afraid to cruise it at 4500RPM. For off-road, even power line roads, you'll want stock gearing or lower. Nothing worse that stalling half way up a muddy incline. BTDT.

That it had only 1.5 quarts in it would tend to make me think that it burns a bit of oil. It's not catastrophic; they'll certainly live with that amount of oil in them. Kinda indicates that it might have been rode hard and put a way wet in its past life. Definitely keep an eye on it and, when you have a chance, pull the exhaust cam caps off and look for scoring. If it was ever run too low on oil that is the first place that damage shows up. No damage there, no harm done.

Strongly recommend reading up on Paul's oiling mods, just in case you find it does burn oil. If it burns oil all the time then Paul's mods may not fix that, but if it burns oil at higher RPMs I think you'll find those mods helpful. The basic mods are cheap and easy.
 

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Daniel, With 75% city - 25% highway intentions and a power-line road up coming and "seems to be lugging below 4000 rpm" comment, I'm wondering if you are figuring 'backwards'?

If you wish to pep-up the response and amplify the torque you need to go the other direction with your numbers.
Stock 43/15 = 2.866 , 43/14 = 3.071
Raise the rpm per road speed, let the engine rev more freely.

ps, I got interrupted and Tom beat to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Daniel, I think that 16/40 would be pretty tall gearing. The KLR has a tall first gear even with stock gearing, so changing it by 12% over stock might make for some difficulty getting it going.

Three teeth in the back is just about equal to one tooth on the front, so 16/40 is about equivalent to 17/43. People do that combination, so it's not unheard of. I remember, though, when my 2008 was stock and I put a 16 tooth on it. Wouldn't pull the hat off my head and had to be downshifted for grades. I tried a 17 much later, after installing a 685, and did not care for it.

These things don't mind being spun up if they are in good shape, so don't be afraid to cruise it at 4500RPM. For off-road, even power line roads, you'll want stock gearing or lower. Nothing worse that stalling half way up a muddy incline. BTDT.

That it had only 1.5 quarts in it would tend to make me think that it burns a bit of oil. It's not catastrophic; they'll certainly live with that amount of oil in them. Kinda indicates that it might have been rode hard and put a way wet in its past life. Definitely keep an eye on it and, when you have a chance, pull the exhaust cam caps off and look for scoring. If it was ever run too low on oil that is the first place that damage shows up. No damage there, no harm done.

Strongly recommend reading up on Paul's oiling mods, just in case you find it does burn oil. If it burns oil all the time then Paul's mods may not fix that, but if it burns oil at higher RPMs I think you'll find those mods helpful. The basic mods are cheap and easy.
I'm pretty sure it was ridden pretty hard, if not, it struggled a bit. The original owner was a monster of a man. He was 6'7" and around 400 lbs. Friendly guy, but he was enormous. I'm not a small guy (6" and 260 lbs) but I felt tiny next to him. He bought this thing as a dirtbike and mainly a dirtbike...so I'll definitely pull those cam caps off when I do my oil consumption check.

Daniel, With 75% city - 25% highway intentions and a power-line road up coming and "seems to be lugging below 4000 rpm" comment, I'm wondering if you are figuring 'backwards'?

If you wish to pep-up the response and amplify the torque you need to go the other direction with your numbers.
Stock 43/15 = 2.866 , 43/14 = 3.071
Raise the rpm per road speed, let the engine rev more freely.

ps, I got interrupted and Tom beat to it.
Shit, I was wondering why that seemed off. Thanks for pointing that out. :t1202:
I was going to order that set on Friday and I would've been a bit annoyed if it was less responsive than it is now.
I'm curious what the revs would be with a 14T/44T set up. Again, I'm pretty conservative when I'm on the highway as is because people around my parts are terrible drivers!
 

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Hi Tom!

Let me first start off by saying sorry about my...uh incompetence of electrical before. I did get it figured out eventually after a few Molson's and a trip to get some OEM parts.

Anyways, so you're saying a final drive ratio of about 2.68 should be a decent trade-off for some torque over speed?
I was thinking of gearing the final drive to a 16T/40T, so it's a 2.50 final ratio.

I don't necessarily take a lot of highways and I do plan on taking it up to Potter County, PA come spring time. For the fall, I'll end up hitting some powerline trails.
I drive about 75% city and 25% highway generally speaking. If I'm taking a long trip, I can just swap out the sprockets if need-be.

I want to check oil consumption with this engine as-is since it sat for so long. It's not visibly burning oil or having any blow-by from the piston rings, but I do want to do an oil consumption test at the end of the month (so around 500 total miles put on the bike, give or take depending on the weather here in PA).

I put 2.75 quarts since the case was essentially dry when I bought the bike. I only drained 1.5 quarts when I drained it initially :frown2:
Potter County is almost in my backyard. I live in Tioga. I think you are going the wrong way on your gearing. You likely want lower gearing so either a smaller front sprocket or larger rear sprocket. Smaller front is probably easier to do, but larger rear makes for longer chain life. Very small sprockets are rough on chains.
 

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I sure that, at some point in the past 13 months, the oil level and gearing have been sorted out.
 
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