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Discussion Starter #1
So, after making a valve clearance adjustment on my '13, there seemed fairly increased internal noise in/around the engine. I replaced my doohickey and swapped the original spring for the torsion, and that took out a good amount of the noise. However, there is now a more precise chain rattling noise somewhere north of the rotor/balancer area. It is quiet-ish, but easily heard when I start it w/ choke in the morning.

My question
is whether resetting the cam chain tensioner is something that can be done without taking the valve cover off, setting to TDC, etc. I'm pretty sure I re-set it correctly when I adjusted the valve clearance, but if it's that easy, I might just take it out, reset it, and reinstall.
 

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The cam chain tensioning is automatic; you don't need to fiddle with it.

The balancer chain tensioner should be fiddled with every now and again. I believe the service interval is 6000 miles, but I prefer to make it a part of my oil change ritual. And I may be guilty of over-doing things, somewhat to my engine's detriment.

Regardless of the interval, it does need to be adjusted and one of the signs is that there is an increase in chain noise. How long has it been since you cracked the screw off half a turn, gently whacked the case with a plastic or hard rubber mallet, and re-tightened the screw to 70 in-lbs?

You might consider doing the adjustment the Westman Way, which is to set the engine to TDC prior to making the adjustment. That ensures that the counterbalance weights cannot work against the spring that does the adjusting. If they do that, the adjustment can be looser than you'd like it to be.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for the reply Tom! I was aware that the cam chain tensioner was automatic, but since the noise only began after I had taken the tensioner out (for the valve adjustment), and I remember having some trouble with reinstallation (though I thought I got it, eventually), I thought I might try going for that. Almost definitely not the doohickey, since I changed that about two days ago. Getting rid of that noise helped me to identify this other noise. Not sure if that makes sense.
 

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My question
is whether resetting the cam chain tensioner is something that can be done without taking the valve cover off, setting to TDC, etc. I'm pretty sure I re-set it correctly when I adjusted the valve clearance, but if it's that easy, I might just take it out, reset it, and reinstall.
As posted above, the OEM cam chain tensioner operates automatically; however . . . if you want to reset it, just to make sure it's right, I think you only need to remove and replace two bolts (without further disassembly).
 

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Discussion Starter #5

My question
is whether resetting the cam chain tensioner is something that can be done without taking the valve cover off, setting to TDC, etc. I'm pretty sure I re-set it correctly when I adjusted the valve clearance, but if it's that easy, I might just take it out, reset it, and reinstall.
As posted above, the OEM cam chain tensioner operates automatically; however . . . if you want to reset it, just to make sure it's right, I think you only need to remove and replace two bolts (without further disassembly).
That’s what I had thought. From what I recall, you remove that before even getting the valve cover off and replace it only after it’s back on, so it should be able to be removed without any other monkeying, right? I thought if it’s that easy, and there was any question, I might as well. Thanks for the advice!
 

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OK, I get it, a double check.

You can R&R the adjuster without doing anything with the valve cover. As long as you do not turn the crank nothing bad can happen. Even if you do, nothing is likely to go wrong. But don't.

You'll want to remove the hollow bolt in the adjuster that holds the spring in place. This must be done before removing the two bolts. Set the spring aside.

Remove the two bolts and reset the ratchet to fully seated. Replace the adjuster assembly body with the two bolts. Insert the spring and press it in with the hollow bolt. Become frustrated trying to get a thread to catch. When it finally does, seat the bolt and torque all three to the proper specs. 70 in-lbs on the two 6mm bolts, I don't remember on the hollow bolt.

You may need a new gasket, though I have tortured one into working for several R&Rs.
 

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So, after making a valve clearance adjustment on my '13, there seemed fairly increased internal noise in/around the engine. I replaced my doohickey and swapped the original spring for the torsion, and that took out a good amount of the noise. However, there is now a more precise chain rattling noise somewhere north of the rotor/balancer area. It is quiet-ish, but easily heard when I start it w/ choke in the morning.

My question
is whether resetting the cam chain tensioner is something that can be done without taking the valve cover off, setting to TDC, etc. I'm pretty sure I re-set it correctly when I adjusted the valve clearance, but if it's that easy, I might just take it out, reset it, and reinstall.
brycelyoung,
If you 'zeroed' the cam chain tensioner with spring removed & then bolted the body into the cylinder & then re-inserted the spring & cap, that should be 100% correct procedure. But you can easily re-do it, just to be sure.

I'll suggest that the chain noise which you are currently hearing may be kinda of a 'ssshhhing' sound, correct?

That is probably the balancer chain sliding snugly across its chain guides. The EM Torsion spring & Doo will pull the engine Balancer chain to 'Zero Slack' when the system is assembled or adjusted at TDC. The factory spring & lever system can Never pull the system to 'Zero Slack', there is always the sloppy fit of the oem doo on the eccentric shaft.

The Original design EM doo & Extension spring still Could Not achieve zero slack, so it was recommended to be adjusted at every oil change, too keep slack to a minimum.
The EM Torsion Spring on the other hand, installed on the snug fitting EM Doo-Hickey and assembled or adjusted at TDC should only be adjusted about every 6000-7500 miles according to Eagle Mikes own instruction. This reduces unnecessary wear on the guides & allows the ssshhhing to subside.
Does this make sense?
 

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Discussion Starter #8
brycelyoung,
If you 'zeroed' the cam chain tensioner with spring removed & then bolted the body into the cylinder & then re-inserted the spring & cap, that should be 100% correct procedure. But you can easily re-do it, just to be sure.

I'll suggest that the chain noise which you are currently hearing may be kinda of a 'ssshhhing' sound, correct?

That is probably the balancer chain sliding snugly across its chain guides. The EM Torsion spring & Doo will pull the engine Balancer chain to 'Zero Slack' when the system is assembled or adjusted at TDC. The factory spring & lever system can Never pull the system to 'Zero Slack', there is always the sloppy fit of the oem doo on the eccentric shaft.

The Original design EM doo & Extension spring still Could Not achieve zero slack, so it was recommended to be adjusted at every oil change, too keep slack to a minimum.
The EM Torsion Spring on the other hand, installed on the snug fitting EM Doo-Hickey and assembled or adjusted at TDC should only be adjusted about every 6000-7500 miles according to Eagle Mikes own instruction. This reduces unnecessary wear on the guides & allows the ssshhhing to subside.
Does this make sense?
Yes, absolutely! That would make perfect sense. So many questions on these forums about "what's this noise" and "what's that rattling"—"Is it a shh-ing or a scrrrr-ing noise?" Y'all do a great job being patient with them all and giving answers that at least put to rest the overactive imaginations of *some* riders. Thanks!
 

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I recon that I did think of one more thing.

Were you able to push the outer most coil of the EM Doo inward and engage it into the groove on the top of the EM Doo? If yes, I say Done!
 
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