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Discussion Starter #1
Just wanted to say hi. I just traded in my CB1000r for a 2015 KLR. I've owned a Versys 650 in the past and loved it. I often thought of trading for a KLR back then but got sidetracked. Though some may think I'm crazy for going from a naked sportbike to a KLR, I'm really excited about the new roads it now opens up. Just hope I don't hear too much about a doohickey....LOL!!
 

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Welcome to the forum, Back2Kawi.

Just as long as you understand IT and it's issues, I'll not mention IT!
 

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You may have made a mistake because the CB1000r will go further off road than a KLR. Just look at the photos of various tight highway corner incidents and think you'll have to agree that the CB is usually found further from the road?

Just wanted to warn you that's the kind of logic we like best here. >:)





Just wanted to say hi. I just traded in my CB1000r for a 2015 KLR. I've owned a Versys 650 in the past and loved it. I often thought of trading for a KLR back then but got sidetracked. Though some may think I'm crazy for going from a naked sportbike to a KLR, I'm really excited about the new roads it now opens up. Just hope I don't hear too much about a doohickey....LOL!!
 

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Discussion Starter #4
LOL!! Just wondering, how are the stock tires for the road? I'm a little uneasy as I've never ridden with a tread like this before. How are the twisties with a KLR? Im kinda nervous to ride through them as I did with my Versys due to the tread.
 

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IMHO, the stock 50/50 tires are pretty good on the pavement, not that you want to race the sport bikes on the twisties with them!

On the other hand, be cautious of true knobbies on the slab; e.g., Kenda TrakMaster IIs. My front tire washed out as I was gaining the roadway after being forced to the shoulder by an on-coming delivery truck . . . there's just not enough contact footprint on a hard surface for such a full-up knobbie to get good lateral traction . . . I think a stock 50/50 tire would have grabbed enough road surface to prevent the fall-down.

Depending upon how much pavement you intend riding, I've found Continental Trail Attacks particularly pavement-friendly (good rain tire), but wouldn't push 'em much beyond groomed dirt and gravel roads and fire roads, in the off-road direction.

BTW, rode a Versys for a couple of thousand miles a couple of summers ago, through the southern Appalachians (including the Dragon); boy, wish Kawasaki would implant that power train into a KLR650!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
IMHO, the stock 50/50 tires are pretty good on the pavement, not that you want to race the sport bikes on the twisties with them!

On the other hand, be cautious of true knobbies on the slab; e.g., Kenda TrakMaster IIs. My front tire washed out as I was gaining the roadway after being forced to the shoulder by an on-coming delivery truck . . . there's just not enough contact footprint on a hard surface for such a full-up knobbie to get good lateral traction . . . I think a stock 50/50 tire would have grabbed enough road surface to prevent the fall-down.

Depending upon how much pavement you intend riding, I've found Continental Trail Attacks particularly pavement-friendly (good rain tire), but wouldn't push 'em much beyond groomed dirt and gravel roads and fire roads, in the off-road direction.

BTW, rode a Versys for a couple of thousand miles a couple of summers ago, through the southern Appalachians (including the Dragon); boy, wish Kawasaki would implant that power train into a KLR650!
Thanks for the info. And yeah, a world of difference between the Versys and the KLR. I felt more comfortable in the twisties with the Versys than I did with my ZX6R or the CB.
 

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Back2Kawi,
Let me suggest what the 1st thing to do with the stock tires on a KLR is.
AIR them up! The factory is all wet!! Their recommended front pressure is Way too Low on the asphalt. And too low for faster rocky sections.

How much do you weigh?
Start by trying 32 psi Front / 30 psi Rear. Always more in the skinny front tire. At least up to Maximum pressure in both ends, ie carrying a passenger.

If you were ever brave enough to touch a peg feeler or boot toe on a ZX6 or CBR, you can touch a boot toe on a KLR, with stock tires.
The only time my KLR pegs actually touch down while cornering is while crashing in the dirt or gravel.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Back2Kawi,
Let me suggest what the 1st thing to do with the stock tires on a KLR is.
AIR them up! The factory is all wet!! Their recommended front pressure is Way too Low on the asphalt. And too low for faster rocky sections.

How much do you weigh?
Start by trying 32 psi Front / 30 psi Rear. Always more in the skinny front tire. At least up to Maximum pressure in both ends, ie carrying a passenger.

If you were ever brave enough to touch a peg feeler or boot toe on a ZX6 or CBR, you can touch a boot toe on a KLR, with stock tires.
The only time my KLR pegs actually touch down while cornering is while crashing in the dirt or gravel.
Great info!! Thanks. I can't say I've dragged peg on my CB1000R but definitely used all my back tire. I did think the 21psi recommended seemed low.
 

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Back2Kawi,
If you were ever brave enough to touch a peg feeler or boot toe on a ZX6 or CBR, you can touch a boot toe on a KLR, with stock tires.
The only time my KLR pegs actually touch down while cornering is while crashing in the dirt or gravel.
Sad story! :crying:

Touching down was the exciting part of sport riding! Anyone can go fast in a straight line. Getting that knee to the ground was the most exciting part!

I rode multiple sport bikes over a number of years and loved it. I still have one, but when I took this KLR out with my brother I realized I could still ride pretty damn hard in the corners and it didn't even slip out on the corners. I was extremely happy with it! It wasn't even ideal road conditions (temperature/cleanliness)!

These KLR's are everything I could want in a bike. Not much for super retarded fast in a straight line because I've done it and I'm not too thrilled for it. I'll leave that for the drag racers since it gets them going. Twisties is where it's at for me as well as the versatility of the bike! I do wish the KLR had just a tad bit more top end so it was screaming on the freeway at 80mph. :serious:
 

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Sad story! :crying:

Twisties is where it's at for me as well as the versatility of the bike!

I do wish the KLR had just a tad bit more top end so it was (not) screaming on the freeway at 80mph. :serious:
I use ear plugs.
7000 RPM would have been an impossible RPM for a 318 CID Dodge V8 to even survive! Let alone ride for tens of thousands of miles at 5000-7000 RPM, as my bike has.

The wind noise is harder on ones ears, than the rpm is on the engine!!
 

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I use ear plugs.
7000 RPM would have been an impossible RPM for a 318 CID Dodge V8 to even survive! Let alone ride for tens of thousands of miles at 5000-7000 RPM, as my bike has.

The wind noise is harder on ones ears, than the rpm is on the engine!!
This is true. I usually have music going with ear buds but I just bought a brand new bluetooth helmet so nothing in my ear. Haven't tried the music with ear plugs in. Maybe it'll work out well! I can only hope with the speakers being so close I can still hear my music. hahah.
 

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HI and welcome ....
Cant go wrong with it .... if you wish to drop some of the rpm and keep the off road gearing then go 16/42... we ride mostly pavement and it drops 500rpm off straight away ... we do 110kph highway and i sit on 4500rpm all day .... as for noise well ive been told i out do most harleys .... running a vance and hines XCR pipe ....and having a bluetooth helmet with the tunes running means i dont hear it as much .... but it does sound nice tho..
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Any thoughts on the rear shock adjustment? I'm 165, 5'9 and thought bout dropping the shock to position 1. It appears to be on 4. I've watched videos, yet they appear contrary to the manual. The manual says going from 1-5 turn clockwise and vise versa for 5-1. At least that's how I interpreted it. Yet the videos only show clockwise adjustments, smacking the shock back into the 1 position by passing the 5th. I also find it strange that the manual says stock setting is position 3 for a 150lb rider. Almost making the first 2 positions useless, no?
 

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Im 6"4 and 230lb and needless to say my settings are at the extreme end .... for your weight my book is indicating 3-4 on the shock with 2-3 on the rebound ....
 

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I'm 5'7" and about 165 pounds so I can only conclude that your settings are absolutely correct. Avoiding eye contact while sliding out of sight. >:)



Im 6"4 and 230lb and needless to say my settings are at the extreme end .... for your weight my book is indicating 3-4 on the shock with 2-3 on the rebound ....
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks for the quick reply. I was trying to gain a little more footing on the ground. I just order the sw-motech crash guards for added security. I'm fine with the height but was just worried about slipping as I only have at most the balls of my feet touching with boots.
 

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Having started out as a road rider and not doing any dirt until late in life, I was wanting to put down both feet. It required much convincing (being beaten badly by people on inferior machines) before I began to emulate MX and off road riders.

Easiest way to say it is that they are right. One foot down is all one needs and slipping to one side on the seat does that nicely. Once I was practiced and confirmed how well it worked, I was sold. I still couldn't match the young neighbor girl which remains a sore point. ;-)



Thanks for the quick reply. I was trying to gain a little more footing on the ground. I just order the sw-motech crash guards for added security. I'm fine with the height but was just worried about slipping as I only have at most the balls of my feet touching with boots.
 
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