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Hi I have 1991 KLR 650 when I push the start button I hear a faint click I think it’s from the bigger starter solenoid. I have replaced the starter solenoid with a new one and bought brand new battery I still get the click. Could it be the starter? It starts if I push start it. Can I add a kick starter to bike to start it for now? Bike is at cabin want to ride yet have to bring home to have it looked at. Trying to fix myself. Thanks for any info.
 

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Jump battery + terminal to starter motor power terminal with heavy cable. If starter motor activates, your problem is in starting circuit; if starter motor does not activate, you have an internal problem with the starter motor itself.

A wiring diagram and multi-meter are your friends in cases like this one. Clymer service manuals have the starting circuit isolated; otherwise, you can Google, "KLR650 Wiring Diagram" and pick your way through.

Starting circuit problems might be in the starting circuit relay, or the safety switch logic, or in broken connections, etc.
 

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Damocles has you covered.....except never assume a new battery is any good. Jump it from a car battery to make sure it's not just a bad battery. It's normal for a Gen1 to be able to push/bump start as the battery doesn't do anything after the bike is running and the ignition system doesn't need it to start.

Dave
 

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The fact that you have replaced the Battery & the High Amp starter relay already and that the system wasn't fussy last year, I'll suggest that the single click is the low amp relay on the RH side under the fuel tank & near the coolant recovery tank.

I'll suggest that the primary side of the small magnetic switch is functioning with the button. Clicks each time you touch the button. But the secondary side is not flowing any trigger current (internally corroded) to the the Brand New high amp relay. Therefore the high amp relay does Not Click.

One could/should be able to feel the single click with finger tips on either relay.
 

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Another test I neglected to mention . . . jump the CONTROL VOLTAGE TERMINAL (the small one) on the STARTER RELAY (erroneously called the, "solenoid") to the battery positive terminal (don't need heavy cable for this); if the action activates the starter motor, then . . . you have a problem in the starter circuit upstream.

This test adds the starter relay to the test bed; if the starter motor is NOT activated, then the problem is in the starter relay OR the starter motor itself.
 

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Another test I neglected to mention . . . jump the CONTROL VOLTAGE TERMINAL (the small one) on the STARTER RELAY (erroneously called the, "solenoid") to the battery positive terminal (don't need heavy cable for this); if the action activates the starter motor, then . . . you have a problem in the starter circuit upstream.

This test adds the starter relay to the test bed; if the starter motor is NOT activated, then the problem is in the starter relay OR the starter motor itself.

pdwestman's suggestion, STARTING CIRCUIT RELAY problem, may be key, if jumping the small starter relay terminal to the battery positive terminal activates the starter motor.
 

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Another test I neglected to mention . . . jump the CONTROL VOLTAGE TERMINAL (the small one) on the STARTER RELAY (erroneously called the, "solenoid") to the battery positive terminal (don't need heavy cable for this); if the action activates the starter motor, then . . . you have a problem in the starter circuit upstream.

This test adds the starter relay to the test bed; if the starter motor is NOT activated, then the problem is in the starter relay OR the starter motor itself.
And of course, if this works and you wish to ride while waiting for parts, you can use this method to start it.
 

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Oh, yeah; Mann371: If you want to test your STARTING CIRCUIT RELAY (mentioned as possible culprit by pdwestman above), the FAN RELAY on your Generation 1 is an identical part. You can swap 'em out to test 'em.
 
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