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Discussion Starter #1
I have been meaning to do these , but just never got around to them. I have to say they are just as advertised. First of all the KLR is a very difficult bike to work on, very tight spaces and nothing is easy to get to. But I just took my time and was able to move things around and get where I needed to be. The "L" mod was easy, just cut an L shape in the top of the airbox. The .22 cent however was not as quick and easy. The carb is in there very tight, but I managed to loosen it and rotate it where it needed to be for the work. The diaphragm was luckily easy to get back in with really no extra effort, the mixture screw was a little more diffucult to get to, but I did. Once everything is off and where you want them to be, it goes pretty fast.
After I finished and buttoned everything up, i fired the bike up and went for a little cruise around the neighborhood. First thing I noticed, the response does not seem any quicker, but is is much more effective. Meaning the bike really wants to move and does it much better, no more sluggish acceleration. The thing that surprised me the most was how easy the front end came off the ground in 1st gear, really with very little effort, unlike before, where it took a great deal of effort to raise the front end. I like that alot, thats what a big single sho to do, with out really trying. It is noticibly louder, not obnoxious loud, but noticible. I turned down the idle a bit, it was idleing a little high, but that was expected. I will go out tomorrow and really see how it does in other areas, but my first impression is there is a difference, and it is very noticible. I have heard others give some pretty high raves to the mods, and they are not earth-shattering, but they are definately worth while. You will notice a substantial difference at first twist of the throttle, no doubt. You won't be throwing it up in all 5 gears, but 1st easily, 2nd maybe, 3rd nope, sorry.
Go ahead and do it, it's cheap, not to difficult, and is worth it for sure.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
.22 Mod **UPDATE**

Went for a ride today and yesterday afternoon and I just wanted to add acouple of things. First, the mid range power has a marked improvement. 3500 to 4000 RPM's is the biggest improvement I noticed, it really starts to pull hard in that range, big PLUS. Second the improvement from a dead stop is even better that i first thought. When I had a chance to stop and go many times, there is definately a big difference. The lugging has all but stopped, and the pinging on acceleration has also stopped. I got to say do these mods if you have not already done so, the more I ride it the more I notice things that have improved. High speed riding on the freeway has improved as well, the bike responds to a twist of th throttle with good acceleration, no more flat spots, just a smooth nice pull throughout the RPM range. Roll-off acceleration is better also, now there is not so much of a struggle for power, just a nice steady pull across the RPM range. I really can't believe the what a big difference such a small change has made in this bike. I am sure MPG's will suffer, but I average 50 MPG, and if I am in the mid to low 40's that is good, it is still beats the 15 my truck gets around town. I'm gonna keep track of the MPG and update when I have a couple of fill-ups.
I'm not big on making recommendations, but these are two that you should without question do. Now I have done the .22 mod, the "L" mod, and the PCV mod, so I really can't say if it is a combination of the 3 or if it is just one or the other. So I guess do all 3 and you should get similiar results, I hope.
I also posted earlier that I put Pro-Taper ATV Hi bars on, I would recommend that as well, very comfortable, and a bit wider for stability. With the wider bars the handleing on the freeway is much more stable. I've had a lot of fun the past couple of days tinkering with the bike,the small changes have really made this one fun bike to ride all over again.
I added an Okie riser to my bars last night and brought them up about an inch, I have found the sweet spot for me. The ATV Hi bars and the small riser is the perfect height, feels as though I could ride all day long without arm and shoulder fatigue.

I have an exhaust, front SM fender, KLX Needle, lowering links, mini dash, new chain, front & rear sprockets, and a few other cosmetic items that should arrive this week. I can't wait to get this bike finished, it looks great now, but I have a few color scheme changes I am going to make that if the picture in my head is accurate, should look great. I am going with black front and rear fenders, radiator covers are going to be black, and I am going to re-paint the fairing, and side covers red to fix the sun faded current color. This red is a bit brighter, or maybe it is what they looked like originally, but slowly faded out. I also put mini stalk turn signals on the front and rear, and really like the streamlined look, they look much better than stock.
 

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I agree about the L and carb mods. Confused on one point...you just did the .22 cent, but you're going to put a KLX needle in? Or did I miss something.

At any rate. I have a KLX needle in my 08, did the L mod. I agree. Wouldn't undo it for anything.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I agree about the L and carb mods. Confused on one point...you just did the .22 cent, but you're going to put a KLX needle in? Or did I miss something.

At any rate. I have a KLX needle in my 08, did the L mod. I agree. Wouldn't undo it for anything.
The KLX needle was recommended for the Supertrapp Exhaust I bought, due to the taper, it is said to give a little better performance. I'll wait until I get the exhaust and tune it from there. The .22 Mod may be enough, but I had bought the needle before doing the .22 mod.
 

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Gotcha. You should put the KLX needle in IMHO. It's nice.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
:28:
Gotcha. You should put the KLX needle in IMHO. It's nice.
Are you running an after market exhaust? or the stocker and the carb mod?
I have heard from many that the KLX needle is one of the best performance enhancements for the stock carb. But I had also heard so many rave about the .22 mod that I just had to try it. I guess the worst case is I get a KLX needle for my carb.:28:
 

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Yeah, you're stoking. You can choose. I bet you'll go with the KLX...it's a nice piece of metal. Makes the stock needle look cheap.

Just did the carb mod. And the airbox mods. That was as deep as I wanted to go. I kind of like the way the stock exhaust looks anyway. :16a:
 

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Info on L and .22 mod

Just new to the board and needing some information on the L and .22 mod. Is there any other location to purchase the KLX needle than the dealer?

Thanks


2008 KLR
 

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Drifter-hp,

There are many posts here on the 22 cent mod and the L-mod.

The 22 cent mod is basically a shimming procedure for the needle to enrich the mixture and give you better throttle response and driveability. The L-mod is an air box mod that goes hand-in-hand with any carb mod to allow more air flow.

The KLX needle and any jet you want is available from Schnitz Racing - good folks.

There are so many posts on these mods that it's impossible to point you to a definitive one, so go to the search function up at the top of the page and enter "cent mod" and you should get quite a few threads back that you can peruse to get the low-down on these mods as well as step-by-step instructions for them.

Tom
 

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I got the KLX needle kit and new main jet from Schnitz. They ARE good people. They even called me to tell me I ordered the wrong size jet.
 

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Thanks for the response.

Pulled the seat off today and found that the L mod had been done. Hopefully some of the other mods have been done also
 

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Yo, Duck, it made me nervy too. I drilled 5 1/2" holes that can be plugged back
off or just duck-taped over. Also pulled the rubber snorkel out.
For an airflow improvement test, take the door off of the airbox and ride a few miles.
If you like it, consider the "L". I'm happy with smaller holes and the square rubber
piece outta the way.

Went with a polished Sporster needle since I had one. It's almost identical to
the KLX unit. More agressive taper than the big twin needles. (Harley used the
CV 40 for a coupla dozen years.) Jets don't interchange, but the needles do
from HD to Kaw.

The system should be matched for airflow and efficiency. Doing just the carb will
waste gas. The air needs to get in n' out easier too. This is the reason for the "L"
when putting on an aftermarket exhaust or debaffling/ drilling the stock can.
 

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Here's a pic of a modified Air box...




The 'L' mod is cutting the entire top of the air box... and as you can see it looks like an 'L'..

If you notice the other Black ell shaped tube/fitting .. it goes to the Ca. Smog stuff.. be sure to plug it if you take the smog stuff off.. it's unfiltered air when left open.
 

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I just did the L mod and i am going to the local dealer to see if i can get an KLX needle. but my ? is right now with only having the air box opened alittle bit. will this cause my bike to run lean? and if so how can i fix this? and what main jet should i use?
 

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Ayiyiyiyi! You're drinking milk past the due date! The KLR comes from the factory pretty lean, so by opening the air box you're leaning it out more.

If you put the KLX needle in, you'll probably want a 142.5 jet, and setting the clip on the second groove from the top should be OK. The only way to know is to figure outwhat your AFR is, either with a meter or by reading the plugs after a cruising speed run with a throttle chop/engine kill/pull the plug/read the plug routine.

If you don't put the KLX needle in, the best advice I can give you is to undo the L-Mod and put two stainless #4 washers under the head of the stock needle with the stock jet. That should get you out of a lean condition.

Tom
 

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Not sure if i understand completely, when is the L mod used? I reversed the mod for now until i can figure it out completely. can i use it with the washers under the main jet? or do you just use it with the KLX needle and a different? jet? Thanks for the help guys
Jesse
 

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The thing that surprised me the most was how easy the front end came off the ground in 1st gear, really with very little effort, unlike before, where it took a great deal of effort to raise the front end.
You won't be throwing it up in all 5 gears, but 1st easily, 2nd maybe, 3rd nope, sorry.
Really? Mine doesn't even come close to lifting the front end off the ground in 1st, and 2nd, there's no way in hell. Maybe if I bounced it and dropped the clutch, but just giving it throttle ain't gonna do it. Are others able to wheelie these things that easily? i'm a big guy but no fat ass! i bought the red one cuz i thought if any could do it, gotta be the red ones!
 
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