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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, my 86 kl600 is backfiring alot and stalling out. I'll pull over and it will start right back up and run great to near max speed then... same thing. Bike sat for a few years and I'm just knocking off the dust and am a intermediate shade tree YouTube mechanic at best. I pulled the exhaust off and I have a slip on pipe that I may try but I'll need a coupler of some sort to make it work. Or I can use the stock old AF exhaust for now. Any way the copper gasket has a mm ding in it and I guess is the culprit. Bike only has 12k miles but I got it at 11,300 mi 5 years ago. Put 700 on it and then it sat in garage since. Already damn near went over everything which has led me to this point. Can I use part # 11060-1108 on the 600? It's the copper gasket from the 650.
 

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Yes, 11060-1108 is the proper part number for the 600's & 650's.

How is the joint gasket at middle of pipe #11009-1666?
Have you inspected the coasting enrichener diaphragm & o-ring on the LH side of the carb?
These 4 items affect the "after-fire" popping out the muffler. As does any restriction in the low speed pilot jet & the 5 outlets in the floor of the throat of the carburetor.

The stalling out after a higher speed run suggests fuel flow restriction from possibly 5 year old gasoline 'varnish' on the fuel screens Inside the fuel tank. Have you removed the petcock & sprayed the screens with aerosol carb cleaner or Soaked in Pine-Sol?
The petcock should flow a minimum of 6.4 - 7.0 ounces per minute.
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Hello, my 86 kl600 is backfiring alot and stalling out. I'll pull over and it will start right back up and run great to near max speed then... same thing. Bike sat for a few years and I'm just knocking off the dust and am a intermediate shade tree YouTube mechanic at best. I pulled the exhaust off and I have a slip on pipe that I may try but I'll need a coupler of some sort to make it work. Or I can use the stock old AF exhaust for now. Any way the copper gasket has a mm ding in it and I guess is the culprit. Bike only has 12k miles but I got it at 11,300 mi 5 years ago. Put 700 on it and then it sat in garage since. Already damn near went over everything which has led me to this point. Can I use part # 11060-1108 on the 600? It's the copper gasket from the 650.
11060-1108
Yes, 11060-1108 is the proper part number for the 600's & 650's.

How is the joint gasket at middle of pipe #11009-1666?
Have you inspected the coasting enrichener diaphragm & o-ring on the LH side of the carb?
These 4 items affect the "after-fire" popping out the muffler. As does any restriction in the low speed pilot jet & the 5 outlets in the floor of the throat of the carburetor.

The stalling out after a higher speed run suggests fuel flow restriction from possibly 5 year old gasoline 'varnish' on the fuel screens Inside the fuel tank. Have you removed the petcock & sprayed the screens with aerosol carb cleaner or Soaked in Pine-Sol?
The petcock should flow a minimum of 6.4 - 7.0 ounces per minute.
Thank you again , you are a huge help! I will check them all, I believe the middle pipe gasket just fell apart during disassembly. I few prices of what I thought were old pipe insulation were left over.

I have a used slip on from another kl600. I'd like to use it but need to figure out the coupler that would attach it to the header pipe. Gonna head to bike shop tomorrow to see if they have one. Hoping it won't effect the carb too much but will adjust if necessary. The old exhaust is solid but rusted.
 

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I believe the middle pipe gasket just fell apart during disassembly. I few prices of what I thought were old pipe insulation were left over.
Best to have a VERY Good look at the underside/forward section of the plastic air box to check for Exhaust Leakage Burn-thru!
Check these improved heat-shields, Post Page
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Air box seems good and already has a heat shield. Got the slip on exhaust on and the header gasket. She fired up and sounded good. Didn't get a chance to ride yet, lots of rain. Carb still leaking after I scrubbed the drain hole, screw and replaced the screw o ring. Seemed to not leak when I did the invertion test. Float valve is new as is bowl gasket, measured the float and adjusted it to be between the 17.5-19mm range. Now I just pulled the carb again and am looking for issues etc.
 

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Maybe you need to use a Q-tip & metal polish on the non-replaceable brass float valve Seat?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Maybe you need to use a Q-tip & metal polish on the non-replaceable brass float valve Seat?
Exhaust leak fixed and she's running pretty good. Drove about 70 miles today backroads & highway. Carb still leaking after had it apart completely soaked overnight in pinesol, scrubbed and put all back together, I think the float needle isn't seating properly even though it's new, I polished it's hole as well. The float needle I have in it now is aftermarket so maybe I'll try to find oem. I have a old carb that I'm soaking tonight. Might see if I can Frankenstein it back to life tomorrow and use the old carb body. Felt good to rip her and only about half a tank (maybe less) used while leaking...
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Exhaust leak fixed and she's running pretty good. Drove about 70 miles today backroads & highway. Carb still leaking after had it apart completely soaked overnight in pinesol, scrubbed and put all back together, I think the float needle isn't seating properly even though it's new, I polished it's hole as well. The float needle I have in it now is aftermarket so maybe I'll try to find oem. I have a old carb that I'm soaking tonight. Might see if I can Frankenstein it back to life tomorrow and use the old carb body. Felt good to rip her and only about half a tank (maybe less) used while leaking...
It was the bowl. It seemed to be working when I first leak tested it. All good now, I had a spare old carb that I cleaned up and took all the best parts to make 1 super carb. 😉🛵🤸
 
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