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I'm new here and hate for my first post to be a question, but I am having a problem that is wierd to say the least. I have several bikes, a Super Sherpa and a 1999 KLR250 are among them. I have been riding the Sherpa all summer because the battery was stone-dead in the KLR and made it a little harder to start and I just hate riding it with a bad battery which had been in there for 3 or 4 years. The other day I bought a new battery for it, charged it up like I've done many times and, started it up. It would run but when I gave it gas it would just die...old gas, I thought. I then went through the carb cleaning it out but found it to be a lot cleaner that I'd expected. Put it all back together, same problem. So, on a whim I stuck the old super-dead battery back in it, and it runs just fine (except for the usual signs of a dead battery...dim lights at idle etc.) I then tried a known good battery from one of my other bikes and the KLR wouldn't run on it either, only idle. Old battery back in, runs just fine. What in the world is going on here? Any ideas?
 

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I hate to say this...but first thought was that you might have the + and - wrong.
My next guess is a bad connection on the batt cable and maybe the odds that it just matched up with the batt change. What year is the KLR?
 

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I hate to say this...but first thought was that you might have the + and - wrong.
My next guess is a bad connection on the batt cable and maybe the odds that it just matched up with the batt change. What year is the KLR?
That was my first thought as well. I double and triple checked the polarity. Strange it runs fine with the bad battery.
 

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Check your new battery with a volt meter and verify that it's actually putting out juice and not a dead short..

Simple stuff first. :)
 

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So, if I understand this, the bike will run on old batt, but not on brand new batt.
So, take new batt back off, put old batt back on, and bike runs.
Then as a test, take off old batt again, put on a known good, but different bat, bike will not run.
Take off known good batt, put original batt back on, bike runs.

Weird, indeed...hmmmm...I've got nothing.

Sorry. But I'm subscribing...maybe I'll learn something.

Good luck..and be sure to post the solution when you figure it out.
 

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Hey Eddie, I'm new to the forum and just saw this thread... did you ever figure this out? Such a strange problem... In my experience, strange electrical problems can often be traced to a bad ground somewhere, or a short. I can't tell you how the symptoms are happening but I have seen some strange things happen with a bad ground... running/bogging down problems.

so the first place I'd look is the negative to chassis ground connection(s).

- Ian
 

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This thread's kinda old; despite the well-intentioned advice of the now-long-gone Paper, the KLR250 ignition has NO CONTACT WITH THE BATTERY CIRCUIT WHATSOEVER; instead, the ignition is powered by alternating current from the exciter coil of the stator . . . not unlike Generation 1 KLR650s . . . thus, the battery's condition or even its existence is of no consequence in running the engine of a KLR250, as far as I can tell.
 

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there's a ghost in that machine, salt the gas tank and burn the frame. that should shut it up.
 

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interesting damocles... i still wouldn't rule out a bad ground or short. or a ghost.
The kill mechanism, both ignition switch and kill switch, is a short-to-ground of the exciter coil.

Academic discussion, I imagine; the thread-starter may have moved on . . . 10-18-2012 his last post date.
 

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In my '88, the spark coil has a wire that goes to the CDI unit and to the tach (which also receives switched battery voltage)... So theoretically, a short in the tachometer could apply battery voltage to the coil (at the wrong times); a problem which may not manifest if there is a lack of battery voltage...? A test for that might be to ground the positive battery lead while the bike is running (without a battery), or disconnect the tach.

Or maybe by coincidence Eddievalleytrailer forgot to turn the fuel on every time he had a good battery in it. Mine will idle for a while but not rev with the petcock off.
 

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A short-circuit in the wire from the ignition coil to the tachometer could honk things up considerably, seems to me, ilmontgo! Good analysis on your part.

Kinda hard to explain . . . the ignition coil of a KLR250 never "sees" battery voltage, as designed and built.

The ignition coil is fed from the CDI; it's diet PULSES from the internal capacitor, discharged through the ignition coil primary windings, triggered by a thyristor switched by the pickup coil.

The pulse to the ignition coil primary windings is also routed to the tachometer (black wire), where it is "counted," indicating rpm. The tachometer receives also 12 VDC for lighting, perhaps for setting up the rpm-indicating needle also. Could a short-circuit of the black wire to the tachometer cause an ignition failure? Looks like it could; good possibility, ilmontgo!

The CDI itself is powered by alternating current from the stator exciter coil; NOT battery voltage. A KLR250 will run without a battery at all; thus, the OP's new battery didn't seem the culprit, to me.
 

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Thanks for the props Damocles! I feel like I'm on Cartalk... I only know this because I had some misfiring and tach issues and it turned out that the coil was physically loose and the black wire connector was corroded. Also I had been studying the wiring diagram because 3 days ago I installed a Trail Tech Vapor speedo/tach and tapped into that wire and had to find a 12v constant (ignition switch was the only close source).

Turns out that single track - creek - backflip I did on my first day owning the bike PULVERIZED my instrument cluster! It still worked but when I took out the mounting bolts it fell apart in my hands! But those renthal bars held up without a complaint!

The Vapor by the way is fantastic! I now trust the speedometer, tach, and temp... I thought it might be hard to read at a glance but no, its great!

- Ian
 

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Glad the Vapor worked out for you, ilmontgo!

You probably now have better accuracy and versatility than with the OEM instrument cluster; some enduro riders in my club use their Vapors extensively.

Thanks for sharing your experience!
 
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