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Discussion Starter #1
I recently got hold of a KLR600 as a repair project.

It was a non runner with the wiring completely destroyed (Seems like someone was linking wire to wire in a "lets hope it works" format)

I have got the bike running but poorly.

First off is the fan control circuit, the relay is missing and i dont know how the wiring sits with this circuit as its all missing, i am no good with reading wiring diagrams so they are useless to me, all i gather is that i need to attach the switch on the radiator with a relay and provide it with power? Can someone explain to me what I need and how to go about fitting it please?

Second is the ignition, There is no ignition barrel as its been made for off road only and most of the loom has been ripped out... I am going to put a simple on/off switch and press to start on the handlebars.. as far as rectifier etc goes what is needed for the circuit and how do i install it?
 

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If a wiring diagram is no help, I'd be surprised if these words are, Millhouse!

Your fan is activated by a relay; the relay picks up a GROUND to energize it from the thermal switch at the lower part of your radiator. COOL WATER: open circuit; HOT WATER; closed contacts.

The ignition of the KLR600 is TOTALLY INDEPENDENT of the rectifier circuit; the "igniter" (Capacitive Discharge Ignition, or CDI module) is powerd by ALTERNATING CURRENT from the stator exciter coils.

Further, your stock ignition is wired to GROUND the exciter coils when the ignition switch is in the OFF position (same kill mechanism used with the kill switch). You must LIFT the ground from the igniter coils to run the engine.

Hey, I SAID the words would not be useful, didn't I? :)
 

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O.K., Millhouse, you've already told me the wiring diagrams aren't useful.

Can't resits posting one, ANYWAY! :)

You'll have no fan fuse; replace it with a wire segment in your imagination:



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Don't have a KLR600 wiring diagram handy; think someone posted one recently. Anyhow, as I recall, the alternator stator feeds single-phase alternating current to the regulator/rectifier, and unregulated alternating current from the exciter coils to the CDI. And, as mentioned, a ground is applied to the exciter coils with the ignition switch OFF or with the kill switch in the "DON'T RUN" position.
 

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Simple ON-OFF Switch Won't Cut It

Millhouse, one concept I'm trying to convey; the simple on-off ignition switch you suggest won't cut it, as the KLR600's ignition is configured from the factory. A single-pole, single-throw ON-OFF switch won't kill the engine, because the exciter coils are permanently connected to the CDI.

A simple ON-OFF switch connecting WHITE to BROWN will turn your lights on and off, permit operation of all other 12 VDC stuff like your horn and turn signals, your tachometer, but . . . won't have any effect on your IGNITION circuit.

Thus, you have, "The KLR Engine That Will Not Die," unless you ground the exciter coils, as the existing as-built switch logic does.

Can you work around it, "cheat" the system? Yes, of course, but you will then have no positive kill mechanism, a feature some think desirably contributing to safety.

Your bike, but I wouldn't mess with the ignition switch/kill switch logic lightly, myself; YMMV!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If a wiring diagram is no help, I'd be surprised if these words are, Millhouse!

Your fan is activated by a relay; the relay picks up a GROUND to energize it from the thermal switch at the lower part of your radiator. COOL WATER: open circuit; HOT WATER; closed contacts.

The ignition of the KLR600 is TOTALLY INDEPENDENT of the rectifier circuit; the "igniter" (Capacitive Discharge Ignition, or CDI module) is powerd by ALTERNATING CURRENT from the stator exciter coils.

Further, your stock ignition is wired to GROUND the exciter coils when the ignition switch is in the OFF position (same kill mechanism used with the kill switch). You must LIFT the ground from the igniter coils to run the engine.

Hey, I SAID the words would not be useful, didn't I? :)
As much as I cant read a diagram your words make sense.... So circuit would be to wire a positive to the relay with a fuse as a breaker - relay to the thermal switch and to the fan - Negative from the fan to the battery. Thanks

I will be using a 2 pole switch, So I shall wire stand safety switch to the on/off switch which will break the circuit thus cutting the engine when in off position. I have just tested it and it works.

I need to wire up the starter motor to a push to start switch. How simple is this?

Thanks for the help
 

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I will be using a 2 pole switch, So I shall wire stand safety switch to the on/off switch which will break the circuit thus cutting the engine when in off position. I have just tested it and it works.
Best wishes in your configuration alteration, Millhouse!

Hard to comment intelligently without seeing what you're working with; I'd just recommend: Mind the sidestand switch circuit as an alternate "kill" opportunity; the circuit can pick up a ground independently from the NEUTRAL switch, regardless of the sidestand switch position.

Again, good luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Best wishes in your configuration alteration, Millhouse!

Hard to comment intelligently without seeing what you're working with; I'd just recommend: Mind the sidestand switch circuit as an alternate "kill" opportunity; the circuit can pick up a ground independently from the NEUTRAL switch, regardless of the sidestand switch position.

Again, good luck!
There is no neutral switch wired up. The loom was completely missing when i got the bike, Only wiring that existed was from the generator and the ignition coil. I have fitted the CDI myself and wired a simple circuit for the ignition. Fires prefectly. So all other wiring is missing hence im trying to figure what goes where.

The starter is in place and that's everything I have to work from. I got a push to start switch and need to wire it all up... i know the negative of the starter is ground... positive to the solenoid - solenoid the the starter... but how do i implement the button?

Once I get the bike to turn over from teh starter i need to figure how to wire up the alternator to the battery too
 

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The starter is in place and that's everything I have to work from. I got a push to start switch and need to wire it all up... i know the negative of the starter is ground... positive to the solenoid - solenoid the the starter... but how do i implement the button?
At this stage of "Frankenwiring," you might simply wire your starter button to connect + 12 VDC to the control voltage terminal of the "solenoid" (starter relay).

That oughta work every time! :)
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks. All is going well so far.

Quick question about the slide diaphragm in the carb.... sense says to me its supposed to be a seal yet there is what appears to be a manufactured hole in it... its prefectly round.... that isnt right is it?
 

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Thanks. All is going well so far.

Quick question about the slide diaphragm in the carb.... sense says to me its supposed to be a seal yet there is what appears to be a manufactured hole in it... its prefectly round.... that isnt right is it?
Not right at all!

The diaphragm fabric must be impervious; must provide an air-tight seal. Further, the diaphragm edge must fit securely in its groove atop the carburetor for proper engine functioning.
 

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Thanks. All is going well so far.

Quick question about the slide diaphragm in the carb.... sense says to me its supposed to be a seal yet there is what appears to be a manufactured hole in it... its prefectly round.... that isnt right is it?
You are asking about the rubber diaphragm, not the aluminum slide itself?
 

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What got me was when you wrote "manufactured hole". Have any idea what may have caused it? Get that replaced and I'll bet it'll feel like riding a new bike !!!
 

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Discussion Starter #14
What got me was when you wrote "manufactured hole". Have any idea what may have caused it? Get that replaced and I'll bet it'll feel like riding a new bike !!!
it was perfectly round! as if it was molded in.

After working on the engine today i can guarantee that it will never feel like riding a new bike... the cam journal for the exhaust is worn that badly that the cam is loose enough to wobble by hand. Its enough that the timing marks are nearly an entire tooth out on the sprockets! At £210 for a new head and the amount of work required for the rest of the bike I think its time it went to the breakers.
 

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Ahh, I see.

"After working on the engine today i can guarantee that it will never feel like riding a new bike... the cam journal for the exhaust is worn that badly that the cam is loose enough to wobble by hand. Its enough that the timing marks are nearly an entire tooth out on the sprockets! At £210 for a new head and the amount of work required for the rest of the bike I think its time it went to the breakers."

Shame, maybe it would be best to part it out?
 
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